Kee Pang All-Metal J-Head V6 Hotend Kit with 5 Pcs Extruder Print Head and Nozzle Throat + Volcano Heating Block+ 4 Pcs Volcano Extruder Nozzles for 3D Printers

I mainly got this for the all metal heat break and the volcano end. Good news for me, all 3 included breaks were all metal. Upon closer inspection, one of them had a much better visual finish. Ran some steelwool and cotton twine with polishing compund through it b4 initial install. The other two have minor scuff marks on inside, might buff out, haven't needed them yet. Been printing with it for over a month and so far zero issues(hence why I haven't needed the other 2). No clogging for me, just make sure to tighten everything while HOT.And apply heatsink compound only between nozzle/block and heat break/heatsink. None between break and block. Basically you want heat escaping the block towards the nozzle not the heat break but the heat that does go up should escape the break through the heatsink as quick as possible. Hope that helps.I didn't use ANY other other hardware from the kit on my ender 3. Just heatsink, throat and block(worth the money). Ender probes just fit(at least in the volcano block they do, didn't use the shorty) and fans get adapted to whatever mount used. My setup went into a direct drive orientation(BMG/Volcano/pancake stepper from Amazon) and so so glad I did. Swapping fillament is a breeze now, print quality improved, stringing is all but gone, using much much lower hotend temp. (From MAX 260/270 on PETG to 230).I fitted a sock from B-GOOD(the V1 is needed for this kit) and it fits nice and snug.I priced out individual parts since i only needed so little from this kit, but even so this was a hard to beat value and everything just fit, I didn't have to worry about ordering incompatible parts.

I didn't buy this kit for the heat break they are pretty bad and this is why im giving it a 4 star. If you are buying this for the all metal heat break then this is not for you but paired with a good heat break this works really well with alil tinkering. I figured out the reason everyone is having so much problems with jams and clogs its simple really. These heat breaks are actually 3 different parts the top thread a pipe in the middle and threads on the bottom pressed together. Mine actually has about a 1/16" gap so if your using these print slow and retract very little then buy a good quality heat break. Also the thermistor attached to the hotend was over tightened and causing a short i just used a larger piece of heatshrink spread the wires shrinked it then just a hole for the bolt hope this helps. The attached pics are with all there parts with bad heat breaks extrusions were kinda all of the place sometime to little sometimes to much printed at 50mm/s with a slower print better settings you should be ok. keep printing

Given the price i was skeptical, but i couldnt not do it for that price.... got it all hooked up and running in about 30 min since i already had my mounts printed... Im getting smoother prints and the same extrusion properties with an 10-15% lower temperature... this may be the position of the thermistor or just manufacturing differences in the thermistor but i see this as a plus since before with the stock hot end, i had to print PETG at 255-260 to get good flow and adhesion where now im printing at 245 with excellent results... i see this as a benefit since now i have a little more wiggle room and can finally print this nylon filament as well without even altering the 260 max temp setting. Very impressed. came with 2 blocks and a crap ton of nozzles and extras... no idea how at the price point but im not complaining...Feeding is smooth and have had no jams or anything of the like. i am using the stock fans from the cr10 since thats one less thing to solder and printed a 40mm fan mount for it instead of the stock 30mm,.... not sure how much difference it makes. No issues here either.ive also been able to up my printing speed from reliable at 30-40mm/sec with PETG and now its same or better quality at 40-55mm/secRequires a certain will to tinker and get it all set up but its rocking it once you get it set up. Highly recommmended. Get yourself one.

I ordered 3 of these to replace the heavy extruders without proper fan ducting on a Tevo Black Widow and 2 Tronxy X5S-400 printers.Each kit came with one all metal heat break and 2 spare PTFE heat breaks. Just throw out the PTFE heat breaks. I see no use for them and they are only good for PLA with no advantage over the all metal heat breaks.Both heat blocks use proper clamping to get full contact around the heating element instead of the original equipment crappy set screw. I also ordered a pack of highly rated Witbot all metal heartbreaks just in case the kit came without all metal heat breaks. The Witbots were nothing special so just order them from KeePang who has a better price. Always check everything for burrs with a light touch and round jewelers file. Otherwise expect to spend $$$$$$$ for a name brand.The included thermistor was about 113K Ohm and the heating element was 3.8 Ohms. I did not bother using the new elements with the upgrade.I suggest finding a tiny washer to help hold the thermister in place. I will eventually replace the thermistors with hard to find integrated screw in thermistors from Banggod or New Frog. Unless KeePang gets them soon.The PTFE tubing is wound way too small and needs to be put in boiling water to soften up and then straightened out and run under cold water to straighten it out a bit.The included pneumatic fittings are high quality.On my X5S-400, I am currently using the clone volcano heat block with a .8mm nozzle, squirting out .4mm layers of PETG with .8mm shells at 245 degrees C. The X4S is now a rocket ship for properly designed large builds. Prior to the upgrade with the heat break fan also blowing on the heater block the hot end could barely reach 130C.Attached photo is printing PETG on an unheated 17C glass bed with purple glue stick.I cannot mention enough, any filament path part from any vendor or kit needs to be checked for burrs so also invest in some inexpensive jewelers files. This kit is the best $16 you can spend to improve your prints.

Venia aparentemente todo, con bloque V6 y Volcano, y al menos en la configuración V6 con una boquilla CHT clon funciona perfectamente en una Ender 3 Max con adaptador para un V6. Contento y muy barato, especialmente para imprimir filamentos como ASA que requieren de una temperatura lo suficientemente alta como para quemar el tubo de PTFE.Actualización: Después de unos meses de uso, he de decir que montar una garganta bimetal es casi imprescindible a la hora de imprimir según qué PLA, sobre todo si imprimimos piezas con muchas retracciones. La garganta de acero que viene, sin embargo, funciona bien para PLA de alta temperatura, ASA y PETG, así como para PLA normal si nuestra pieza no tiene muchas retracciones seguidas.

Pour une chinoiserie c'est corecte hormis le ventilateur cheap ca envoie très bien par contre nutiliser pas les Termistances fournie les deux on cramer résultat erreur temp e1 .. Pas de sousis avec le reste qui est bien copié

Il kit è ben fatto e si ha la possibilità di montare sia V6 che Volcano.Ci sono anche Nozzle di buona qualità.L'unica cosa sarebbe bello una versione da 24V

Pessimo! Soldi buttati..Filamento che esce dalla gola filettata, varie stampe buttate!Ma il costo dice tutto

mala calidad, se atasca, tube que devolverlo