Starrett Tungsten Carbide Tipped Stainless Steel Sheet Metal Hole Saw - Ideal for Stainless, High Alloy Steel, Non-Ferrous Metals, Reinforced Fabrics - 1'' Diameter - SM25

Was going to drill a 4.25 inch hole in a 4-inch thick concrete patio to install a 4 inch drain line to drain rainwater runoff. It turned out that the place I chose for the hole was a full 12 inches of 3,000 psi concrete that was hard as a rock. This hole saw cut right through it. I used a 1/2 inch Sears drill which worked fine. I used a garden hose to flood the drilling, and did not apply too much pressure and stopped for several seconds every minute or so to be sure the water got down to cool off the hole saw teeth. It took some time to chisel out the concrete every two inches (the saw is about two inches tall). It even cut through a piece of 3/8 inch rebar without a problem, and the saw looks as good as new after the job. The hole is perfect. I used a 5-inch hole saw to start with, and went down about 3/4 of an inch and busted that out, to have a lip to secure the drain cover plate so it and the drain pipe do not fall into the hole when someone walks on it or puts some furniture on it. The "whole" project turned out great. I noticed from the Amazon reviews that a few people said this hole saw did not work. It did for me so I wonder what they were trying to do. I believe you need to take your time and cool the saw with water like any other cutting operation. The photo below shows the hole with the drain line in place, with the cover ready to be placed on top which I have not done yet. If the patio was only 4 inches thick, I believe it would have taken about five minutes to drill two inches, about ten minutes to chisel out that material, and another five minutes to drill the rest of the way through. But for 12 inches, it took me about two hours because chiseling down deep was tough to do. When I saw the piece of 3/8 inch rebar about four inches long that it had cut through I was really impressed. If you need to drill more than about four or five inches, you might want to get some type of extension for the mandral (I used some socket wrench pieces to make an extension that was about 15 inches long. It took a 7/16 socket and an adapter to go from a 1/2 inch drive to the drill).

I used this to make a dryer vent through some brick. I tried all manner of other versions of this, non worked very well and I was spending ages trying. This still stuggled, but It was loads better then the rest. Brick is just hard stuff, this got the job done in the end.

I bought this for drilling 6" holes for some remodel light housings in our ceiling at home. I needed an actual 6" hole for the lights, and this provided it. Many 6" hole saws out there actually cut a 6-1/4" or 6-3/8" hole, so it's important to read the data on the hole saw to find the actual cut diameter. This one cuts a true 6" diameter hole. I also bought this because our house has plaster walls with a drywall backing. This was the perfect hole saw for plaster as there was no chipping or cracking of the plaster surrounding the cut holes. This cut (6) holes in our ceiling with little effort. I used a hammer drill with a Starrett XA10 3/8" arbor. Afterwards I simply washed off all of the dust and it looked like I had just taken it out of the packaging for the first time. If you need a true 6" diameter hole saw for a plaster ceiling, this is the one to buy. I would recommend this to anyone.

I view this subject as another "I got a secret" type deal. Nobody seems to know (nor is it posted) what a saw will or will not do. Sure, you see folks boring concrete blocks successfully. That's no major trick, a concrete block isn't that tough..... a concrete wall or floor is a completely different animal. I used this hole saw to drill a couple of recesses in my patio concrete deck. Did the job just fine. I don't know that I'd want to bore hundreds of 3" holes with it, but it did the job just fine on the two 1/2" deep recesses I needed. The tool itself seems up to the task of boring many such holes- there doesn't appear to be any significant wear on it. I used water to keep tool and material cool and lubricated.

This did the trick. Coupled the with Starrett XA2 Arbor...I was able to drill a hole through brick and concrete as I ran a French drain pipe into a preexisting drainage pit/line that runs to the street near my property. I connected this to a Dewalt 20V cordless. The only problem I ran in to...and it wasn't an issue with the holesaw...was that the cement/brick was deeper that this holesaw. So, I had to drill, chisel, and drill again. Took a while....but, again, that was my project, not this item. I had ZERO issues or concerns with this holesaw, and would buy this brand again if need be. It worked flawlessly, as did the Arbor.

I bought this hole saw to drill a hole in a 300 x 300mm porcelain tile to accommodate a thermostatic shower mixer. I watched the YouTube videos where others cut large diameter holes in tiles using a diamond disc in an angle grinder, but I wanted a neater result. I used a drill press, with the tile sitting in a shallow plastic tub filled with water to lubricate the cut & keep everything cool. Like all larger hole saws, this one requires a pilot bit to keep it from wandering--so I purchased the Starrett XA2 arbor with a carbide tip. This bit would have been fine if drilling softer ceramic tiles--but not porcelain. Knowing this, I drilled a clearance hole for the pilot bit using a small diamond core drill purchased at my local hardware store. The tile then had a hole for the pilot bit to ride in. I placed a piece of plywood with a clearance hole underneath the tile to avoid the pilot bit drilling through the plastic tray. My first attempt resulted in a broken tile, as I became impatient toward the end. My second attempt was successful. My advice to others is to take it slow. I set the drill press belts to the slowest speed, and applied only slight pressure on the quill, making sure the back face of the tile was fully supported. To minimise vibration, be sure to insert shims between the arbor and saw to take up any looseness when the 2 pins are engaged. I'm not sure how well this hole saw would have worked in a hand-held drill on a vertical wall.

Alles super immer wieder!

Worked GREAT. First I had to go thru 6 inches of fire brick (which, it turns out is MUCH softer than regular brick). It cut thru that like butter: 30 seconds of sawing would cut an inch or so in, then several minutes of chipping out the middle part, then 30 seconds of sawing to go thru the next inch or so. The exterior brick wall was slower going, but again the saw was the easy part. It was the chipping out of the brick in the middle that took the vast majority of the time. If I had it to do over (and could find one) I'd get a deeper saw so that I could saw thru the whole 4" brick wall in one go, and avoid all that chipping out. But this did the trick to put a dryer vent thru a brick wall. Worked much better than I expected, and still works great after going thru 6 inches of fire brick plus 4 inches of regular brick. Quite a workhorse! I tried hard to find a masonry bit to put in the middle of it, to no avail. But a regular arbor with a regular bit (sold separately) worked fine.

Im Vergleich zu anderen Lochsägen hier auf Amazon ist das ein Wunder, geht durch Hochfestes Aluminium wie Butter

I used this to cut qty 30, 20mm clean holes in 1.6mm steel in my new steel barn. It cuts well and will last if you keep to low speed, plenty of lubricant and square to the surface. Much easier to handle than the 32mm bit. carbide tips in good shape. A great hole cutter.

Drilled through 3mm 316 stainless with ease. Make sure to use cutting compound if drilling stainless. Still got it in my toolbox. Will easily go through thin mild steel or galv.