PlastructPlastic Weld w/applicator 2oz Bottle

I do some musical instrument repair work for friends sometimes, and a friend of mine brought over a wireless microphone that had gotten dropped and stopped working. Turned out to be a broken, plastic battery holder. The Plastruct Plastic Weld stuff saved the day!! This stuff is AMAZING!!! Where has it been all my life?! It's not a glue. It literally, chemically melts/fuses the plastic parts together, which forms a super strong bond. It's as if it was never broken or cracked at all! I've never seen anything like this, but have always thought it would great if something like this existed! And, now it DOES!! I love it!Procedure:I made sure the surfaces were clean, then brushed some of it on with the built-in applicator brush, quickly lined up the broken parts, and pressed them together for about 30 seconds. Then, after about a minute. It was pretty well bonded at that point, but I brushed a little more all around the seams, and pressed and held it for another 30 seconds for an even stronger bond. You can actually see where it chemically reacted and fused the plastic together! Amazing stuff! And, a little goes a long way, because it has a capillary action, whereby it creeps into all the gaps by itself. I'm going to get SO much use out of this! I'm super impressed!You can see in one of the photos where there's a white-ish bead around the seam where I used this stuff in the battery compartment of the microphone.One word of caution though; Make sure you use it with plenty of ventilation, and consider using some nitrile gloves. There is a cancer warning on the label, as well as warnings not to sniff it, or get it on your skin. I wore a mask, nitrile gloves, and had my workbench fan on high. I didn't smell anything, and had nothing on my hands. Being safe and taking care of yourself is a good thing.I HIGHLY recommend this wonderful stuff!!

When used on appropriate materials this product creates strong bonds that "glue" can't duplicate.

Exremely powerful solvent.Please heed the warning label: DO NOT SNIFF.

Had trouble sticking plastic together and the cap broke when someone knocked the bottle over. Was a bit disappointed.

I was not sure if this was the right type of solvent glue for what I needed to fix but decided to take a chance. It works great, and saved a fridge shelf bracket that broke (and would have eventually required replacing the fridge itself if not able to fix) and the cracked outer drawer casing on my air fryer. I can't say anything about evaporation - I expect this type of solvent glue would be more prone to evaporating so close it tightly.

After reading all the great Amazon reviews about how this glue creates a chemical reaction making the parts actually melt together, much like pvc pipe fittings after being glued. I purchased this to primarily glue some 3D printed PLA printed items together. Trying to glue a square piece which slid into a square hole. The post slid in with a slight amount of friction, but without being to tight or to loose, so about the easiest glue joint one could ask for. I let the glue wick into the joint, it’s very thin glue and wicked in beautifully, at first I thought this stuff is great! I let the parts set up for several hours while tending to another task, picking the newly glued parts I turned it over and all the posts fell out! Maybe the fit wasn’t tight enough? No idea, but what I do know is I tried several times again on different pieces with the same results. So save your money and go buy some cheap Dollar Store super glue, it actually works better!

"Glue" or "adhesive" is not the right word for this stuff. It is a solvent that makes the surface of the plastic gooey so the pieces stick together as if they were molded that way, so it welds the pieces together; thus the name Plastic Weld. I was looking at buying the Plastruct sheet assortment to make a case for my Raspberry Pi & 5" LCD when I saw this stuff listed as "frequently bought together". As soon as I saw it I knew I wanted it.I fully expected this to have a very annoying stench and knowing that "dung happens" (as the Feb 29 reviewer detailed), before I opened the bottle I took a small cardboard box & cut a hole in the top to use as an anti-topple stand for this stuff. As it turns out it doesn't stink any worse than the common "Testors"(TM) cement, but I still did the work in my garage to keep the smell out of the house.The instructions say to put the pieces together and then apply a "drop" of the solvent to the joint & it will wick into the joint. Well, apparently if you cut the pieces nice & straight & smooth the stuff can't wick into the joint OR else it just evaporated too fast in my cold garage, because the joints broke very easily if I did it that way. You can see in the image of the easily broken bond that the plastic was only bonded at the very edge of the joint, not all across it. What worked best for me was to put a bead of the liquid on the surface where I wanted to bond another piece & then press the other piece onto the bead (see photos of "lay a bead..." & "making a good bond"). I knew it was going to be good if a bit of plastic oozed from the joint. ;~)I tried this stuff on polycarbonate and polypropylene and it worked well on the polycarbonate but did not affect the polypropylene. And it didn't work on vinyl blind slats either. I got a good edge bond on a couple of "We'll send you a tote bag if you sign up" cards I got from AARP, but it did break when sufficiently stressed (see photos of "good bond"). You can see in the photo of the broken bond that the surface of the bottom piece is rough all across the width of the bond unlike the bond that broke easily. The ink or whatever they use for the coloring on the front face is impervious to this stuff, though--I had to scrape it off in order to bond to the front of the card.