ABN Chain Breaker Tool Kit with Storage Case - 13 Piece Rivet and Roller Chain Link Removal Tool for 35 to 630 Motorcycle, Bike, ATV Chains

There's more then one way to skin a cat! Use your head, TAKE YOUR TIME! Adjust your plans as you go. This is not a simple process (was not for me at least). The Oring's within the chain I was riveting were making it impossible to rivet the chain. They were not allowing me to press the pin because they were creating a "spring effect" and when I "cranked down" on the bolt to begin the pressing process, the pin would just push through the "slots" (I'm trying my best to describe lol) anyhow.. I solved the problem by clamping the link with locking C-clamps which solved the "spring effect". Once one side was compressed/ riveted enough, I no longer needed the clamp for the other side. I'm sure there are other ways.. But this was the way i successfully did mine.I highly advise against being bruite with this tool. It doesn't feel very strong. I don't think it's because of design flaw but rather due to the amount of force that needs to be applied on such narrow pins. The length of the pins & the amount of force required will of course be susceptible to be bent or snapped. Take your time & really look closely at what you are doing. Your life's on the line for crying out loud 🙂 good luck ✌️

Overall it did everything it was supposed to do. I'd probably give it 4.5 stars since the metal may not be the highest quality, but it did do everything I needed to take off the old chain and put a new one on. It is true there is no instruction manual, but I honestly think most people would do better watching one of the many you tube videos available how to use this tool anyway. You'll hear two different views when it comes to breaking the chain. Some say grind it down so you can push out the link easier. Some say don't grind it down so the tool will fit over the link you're trying to push out. I ground it down so I could push it right out, which it did. This is the time to be careful though. A lot of people report the metal pin breaking. I took the extra few minutes to ensure the push pin was exactly lined up with the link and slowly pushed the pin a little at a time to make sure the pin was pushing the link out. In other words, only have the push pin on the link being pushed out and not any other part of the chain. If it's lined up correctly, there should be a much better chance the pin won't break. Once you know it is starting to push the link out, it is easy to line the push pin into the indented hole and push it the rest of the way out. As for putting on the master link, one video had a good idea of using a caliper to measure the distance (thickness) of a regular link. As you use the tool to install the new link on, just squeeze it a little at a time to get it to the same thickness as the regular links. You don't want to over-tighten the master link. If you feel this tool is something you may only use a handful of times in your life, it certainly does the trick.

I don't know who is leaving positive reviews here for this junk! I *might* work for a bicycle or moped chain, but as an experienced mechanic, I had a terrible time with this thing. It failed in 4 different ways and was unable to do the job.Black steel is supposed to denote tool-grade-8 steel. The blackness of these parts comes from paint, not forging. Matter of fact, a spark test of the components revealed that they are a mild-non-hardable steel. Your chain components are going to be forged and hardened, so when trying to flare the rivet, the tool crumbles before the flare can be made.The "C" portion of this tool (which commonly fails with cheap versions of this tool) is actually meaty and up to the job. However, the tooling bits are mild steel and simply crumble. When braking or cutting the chain, I use an angle grinder to flatten the pins and make it easier for the tool. After only 3 pressed pins, my pressing bit was visibly deformed. Also, to do a motorcycle chain, one must remove the spring, as it prevents the pin driver from pressing far enough through to completely press out the pin.The tool survived the process of seating the master link.However, when trying to flare the hardened pins with the anvil and rivet tool, you can see that the tip of riveting tool simply crumbled and took on the shape of the pin. When pressed further, the bolt stripped. I happened to have a hardened bolt that fit the thread and quickly ground a flaring tip onto it. At this point the weak collar simply snapped off before the pin was able to be pressed into the .55mm shape specified.Bottom line, this is not a tool. It'a a look-alike. And its going back.

The ABN Chain Breaker Tool Kit looks very convenient and well-made, though I haven’t used it yet. However, it arrived without a detailed user manual, which creates some inconvenience.

It's a nice cheap kit and works for setting rivets. HOWEVER, if you use to break (motorcycle) chains, you really have to use an axle grinder to take the end of the river off first, or the pins in the kit WILL bend. I made a mistake the first time trying to use the tool by itself and the bent pin made the whole thing stuck, so I had to grind off the bent end to fix it. Once I used the axle grinder first, removing the pins wasn't an issue.So for folks who don't have an axle grinder, plan on these things being disposable. Would probably be ok for bicycle chains, but I haven't used it for that.