






🚪 Slide into Style with U-MAX!
The U-MAX 6 FT Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit combines modern aesthetics with traditional charm, featuring heavy-duty steel construction for durability and a hassle-free installation process. This all-in-one package includes essential components to transform your space, ensuring smooth and quiet operation while enhancing your home's interior design.






| Brand | U-MAX |
| Color | I-Shape |
| Material | Steel |
| Style | Modern |
| Item Weight | 13 Pounds |
| Assembly Required | Yes |
| UPC | 756320844724 756320844403 |
| Manufacturer | U-MAX |
| Part Number | 110026BK-AZ09-0224 |
| Item Weight | 13 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 70 x 1.57 x 0.24 inches |
| Item model number | 110026BK-AZ09-0224 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Size | 6 Feet |
| Finish | Stainless Steel |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Included Components | hardware kit |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
D**Y
Good product overall but think it through before you start!
Overall I'm really happy I took a chance and bought here rather than Lowe's for what looks like the same thing for 4X the price!I'd echo many other reviewers. No idea where they came up with their measurements regarding stud placement. However, I knew this going in and also knew from lots of other projects that I rarely find studs consistently 16 on center in my 65 year old house. I also knew that things get different around the doorframe (NOT a professional obviously!)It was a good solution for me for an awkward bathroom. It was an addition some years ago and they kind of squeezed it in. You couldn't have the bedroom door next to it open at the same time the bathroom door was open but this worked out great.I used the old original cheap door with the sunken panels which turned out to be a lot of work. I wanted the sunken parts to be flat so I could build what you see in the pics. Filled them in with scrap paneling and leveled with floor leveler. Then used leftover laminate wood flooring glued and nailed on top of that. Then ripped apart an old pallet for the trim. I sanded that pretty well, light stain, and some polyurethane. I used galvanized pipe for a handle which was the only thing I didn't have laying around the basement. Easy and I think looks good.Some tips learned the hard way:- if you use the same door you had before it's probably too short and narrow as it was meant to fit inside the frame. I added 2x4's to the bottom and sides then covered them up.- i used the lag bolts that came with the hardware along with the Pre-drilled holes in the rail and matched up wherever I could to studs. Drilled two more holes in the rail and added two additional lag bolts to ensure at least 4 were going into studs. I used a bunch of washers for the spacer between the rail and wall (spray painted black). My door weights at least 50 lbs or more but it's holding great with this setup- Measure, measure again, sleep on it, get up and measure again before you cut or drill. If your door is too thick (I had to place straps under trim on door for correct distance from rail) it'll be a problem- Directions show you the basics but are a bit vague. I found some online for a different brand but I think are exactly the same. Took pics of those and posted in this review. They were helpful- Those little round discs go on top of the door and won't allow door to be lifted off rail unless they're turned. Notice the hole in them is off center. Screw them in not super tight and spin them so they're hanging off the top of the door. Put the door over the rail and spin them back so they're completely over the door- The "door stops" mount on the rail and limit how far left or right the door can go. They're adjustable even with the rail on. However, you can't slide them over the head of the lag bolts so you should have a pretty good idea where the limits of your door will be before you put them on or like me you'll have to take out a lag bolt, slide the stop over, then put the lag bolt back in- check your clearance between the inside of your door and the door casing. I had to countersink the bolts from the straps on the inside so they wouldn't hit the door casingI know that's a lot of info but hopefully helpful. The hardware is good. Wheels roll easily on the track, etc. just be prepared to think it through and plan on a lot longer than you think if you're a regular homeowner like me!
H**R
Great product for great price
Amazing cost compared to Home Depot and Lowes products, and I actually had purchased one of theirs before seeing this so had the chance to compare quality. The metal is a very nice power paint coat in a dark brown texture. In spite of banging on it and accidentally scratching it, with a little moist rubbing you don't even see it. I recommend having an extra hand for a few steps of the installation just to make it easier, but I was able to do it on my own. Assembly of the product was fairly simple and the individual parts were separately boxed though not identified by any number/letter. The bar(s) are intended to attach together to end up with a fixed width; I needed to cut one of them a few inches shorter due to a wall on either side of the space I was installing the door. Cutting it was not difficult with the right blade on my chop saw, drilling an added hole to secure it after losing the original one with the decreased size was a longer process. My door was installed in basement and the floor had slight slope so I ended up putting adjustable height screw in gliders on the bottom which helped with that issue. You'll need to drill door guide into floor also. Product looks really great when all completed, and my biggest advice is to absolutely make sure you install rail level so it rolls and hangs correctly. If I had one complaint, it would be that paper directions are not very good at all; minimal written instruction, the pictures aren't enough.
J**.
Good quality / value. Works well in our atypical application - old house very out of level.
I found this to be great value/quality. The groove on the wheel is not so deep and has occasionally come off the track. But our installation was a bit wacky - so I wouldn't fault the hardware. Putting details of installation here as I found it helpful that others died. [Like others have written - challenge to bolt to studs, but using tips others provided I affixed an oak board to studs and then the hardware to oak. I also did some reworking - I live in an old Victorian house - small. The doors have nice thick trim, but the floors are very sagged. If I put it installed per the directions it would have sat out from the wall and trim very far ( I was also using a slightly thicker door than usual which I had "trash picked"). I attached the hardware to the door on the underside. Rahther than front to avoid that gap. I had to use carriage butts with very flat head (I happened to have them from some other project). I have them coming through to the front with the acorn type bolt that looks a bit decorative. I cut the door at an angle at the bottom to accomdate the floor. I hung the door level and plumb - but the trim/ door on the house isn't plumb. It looks okay - good solution given all the design challenges.]
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
3 weeks ago
3 days ago
3 weeks ago