50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector, Sopoby Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals Electrical Waterproof Insulated Marine Automotive Copper(23Red 12Blue 10White 5Yellow)

Only used a few connectors but they shrank well and solder melted easily with heat gun

Good

As an Engineer I found this to be a great idea so I tested it out on a piece of wire which I stripped and twisted together. I slid one of the red shrink sleeves over the joint then used a lighter, and after a few seconds of moving the flame back and forth, the solder seemed to melt and it looked to be a good connection. Then I tried pulling it apart and the connection failed.I then tried again, but this time I dipped the stripped ends of the wire in Flux which is a very necessary part of the soldering process. Not only did the joint work perfectly after using the flux, it also heated up much faster, reducing the chance of melting the plastic. Without the flux you can get what is called a "cold" joint where the solder melts but doesn't really flow onto the wire.I don't know if the average person has flux laying around but it would be great if they included a small tube in the kit. Or better yet, figure out a way to line the inner part of the shrink tube on either side of the solder, so it gets applied to the wire when things heat up.Great idea and works in a pinch when you don't have electricity for a soldering iron - just needs flux!

I like these connectors so far. It takes just the right type of procedure to get them to work. What I have done is to strip (proper size wire) the wires about 1/12 inch and insert the wires from both ends until the wires touch the insulation on each other leaving them bare wires exactly in the middle. Twisting for me did 2 things I didn't like. In most instances, it made making close connections very hard to do, and the other thing is that twisting the wires also most time made the wires bundled that way a bit too large to safely and easily pull the connector over them. letting the wires either naturally slide past each other or into each other made for the best results. The next thing that is required is to get a good quality heat gun and hold it about1.5 to 2 inches ways and heat while moving it back and forth. Heat from at least 2 different angles and the solder will melt properly, the sealer will spread out and the casing will shrink properly and provide a hold that is very difficult to pull apart. I used probably close to 50 lbs. of force and could not pull wires apart. Let the connections cool a bit before moving them around. If you have more force than 50lbs on your wires you need to do something to relieve that stress. These are not for every type of connection or for every place a connection is needed, but given the proper space and type of wire, these work far more effectively than I expected them to.

Had no idea this stuff existed. My radiator fan went bad and burnt the main wire coming out of the fuse box. I had very little room to work in and not a very long piece of wire. Used a heat gun to install.I would recommend practicing a little bit before working on the car. I had to mess with the heat gun settings to get it down right.

*EDIT 5/1/2020* So I'm positive these are the best things in the world. I've finally exhausted the majority of the 50 pack and just gladly ordered the 280 and can say that 20-25 for these things is a great deal for how effective these are. For super permanent or less space-starved fixes I still prefer to sit down and solder/wrap normally (like wiring a car stereo) but for just about anything else, even stuff you might come back to, these are a game-changer. You can hold more heat shrink onto the back of the wires since it takes way less heat through the wire to secure these than actual solder where the wire itself can get pretty hot, especially larger more conductive wires that might start closing the heat shrink down the wire prematurely while securing the joint.This actually saved my butt when my headlight wire got caught leaving work (I get off after dark). I had thrown a few in my backpack "just in case" and it actually came up. These are super convenient and get the job done. They're actually pretty solid, too, and feel relatively trustworthy.I like these better than the hard, plastic crimps that don't shrink down, obv, but I mean these things are definitely more solid, and I feel like I've gotten those things tight. For anything worth anything that needs to be permanent, you want to splice, solder, and heat shrink. But when that isn't an option anytime soon, these are by far the most clutch tool to have in your electrical toolbox.

These are technically an off brand, but I couldn't justify the extra money on the name brand originals. I got one of the 100 piece ones when adding various lights to an ATV, and will never use a regular butt connector again if I can avoid it. The solder melts well, they are reasonably thick, the clear heat shrink waterproofs well and let's you see when the solder gets into the wires.If your putting anything together that even theoretically might get wet, just get these over regular butt connectors they are so very nice to use.Disclaimer: I have a little pen-shape butane torch/heat gun that I use, but a torch or lighter should work as long as you don't get the heat shrink too hot, as it will eventually burn. It does melt the solder well before it burns the tube though in my experience.

This product were just as advertised, but you need to be careful if you're using it for household wiring splicing. The low temp soldered be was not very strong on the connection that I made. I was hoping it would have more tinsel strength, but I found it pulled apart easily. Therefore, don't try to put too much strain on the splice.