A/C R134A Refrigerator Freon Recharge Kit with Bullet Piercing Valve, Piercing and Self-Sealing Can Tap 134A

Last charged it up two years ago and it was finally blowing hot again - and my old recharge gun no longer worked. Ordered this system yesterday. Instructions were included but lacking in a couple of details - like which side goes to the can and which side goes to the low-pressure port on the vehicle. I went back and forth a couple times but finally it seemed to work best when - with the gauge facing you topside up, the can connects to the right and the port on the left. Next problem was the self-sealing cans like to stay sealed - even when supposedly open. I found it necessary to back off the valve a couple turns, and it would actually only allow coolant to flow in a range of about half of one turn in the right spot. To confirm flow, I would slightly loosen the threaded connector attached to the low-pressure-port quick-connector. I'd turn the valve all the way in, and then slowly back it out until coolant flowed out the other end - and then I would quickly tighten the low-pressure-port connector. Kind of a PITA to do by yourself but that proved a reliable technique for every can. My last problem was the system was so low the compressor clutch wouldn't engage. Took me about 45 minutes of holding the can up high, shaking it and slowly gravity feeding coolant into the accumulator until enough leaked in to make it past the low pressure switch and activate the compressor clutch. Of course it would run one second, pressure would crater, it would disengage, and I'd go back to drip feeding. Over time, the compressor would engage more frequently and run longer, until I finally tickled the blue zone and it started sucking in refrigerant in earnest. Soon the accumulator started sweating and we were getting ice cold air in the cab. Time will tell how long this lasts. That system was EMPTY. Probably have multiple shrunken/cracked seals. Fortunately it appears the evaporator is right on the firewall at the top of the engine bay and easy to reach. Grateful for that. Long story short - kit worked just find and I would recommend to others. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

My whirlpool refrigerator wrx988sibm03 started having trouble cooling. First the ice in the door started melting and it wouldnt make any more ice. Then I noticed the freezer just wasn't getting cold enough and the fridge area was holding at low 40s. I moved any good food to the chest freezer and then checked the freezer evaporator. It had a fist size ice chunk right on the lines coming straight from the compressor, and the rest of the evaporator had nothing on it, which is a sign of low Freon. I also noticed an ugly solder joint that had the oily film, probably the culprit. I plan on using some silicone tape and a pipe clamp if I continue to lose freon. I hooked up this new valve and got some automotive R134A from walmart with leak stop. It wasn't very hard, just take your time and check out youtube, there are plenty of videos on how to do it. It took maybe an hour and saved me 3000 on a new fridge. Also one tip: The red handled valve you use to put on your self sealing can- If you twist the handle too far out IT WILL LEAK THERE during filling! So when you hook up your can, slowly turn the handle until you hear freon hiss out of the other end. This will get as much air out of the hose and be your stop point while you're filling your system. Then you can connect the other end to the bullet valve. (Then you retract the piercing screw to fill the system) I didn't have any trouble with the bullet valve's piercing screw leaking when the needle was fully retracted during the filling step, but its always good to just turn it maybe a half turn to open the valve. You need to it open just a tiny bit. Also make sure you clean the copper tube really well. Use some ultra fine sandpaper (400 grit, I only had 220 so I had to be super careful not to ruin the pipe) and gently sand it. Use some alcohol and a sponge to clean the debris off so its nice and shiny. The fridge is making ice again and has been working great. Hopefully I can get a few more years out of it. Hopefully this review helps someone!

Reading the negative reviews, many were about the lack of instructions which I agree with. (Aside from any 'broken parts' issues, then RETURN IT!) Youtube videos can be hit and miss on the subject. This is only for units that are RUNNING low and need a trim, not FLAT empty! If empty you need a vacuum pump first, fix the leak, etc. The kit worked well for me. I attached the piercing valve to the "SERVICE LINE", the CRIMPED OFF charging line from the factory on the compressor as it was in an easier location to work with. I had to use the extra SHIM on the BACK HALF of the valve to fit it correctly! The suction line is the LARGER one on the compressor and if it's in a better spot, you might not need the shim. Test fit the BACK SIDE of the valve to see if it's needed! Shine up the line with steel wool or whatever first, then BACK the piercing valve all the way open and tighten it down pointed in a easy direction to access. Then run the pierce in to the line. (hopefully no leaks!) Leave closed and pull the cap. Connect the LONG end of the hose to the new valve LOOSELY. Select the correct valve from the kit for your recharge can and connect it up to the kit tight. Crack open the valve on the can and VENT ALL THE AIR out of the hose and then tighten the hose on the new valve. With the can valve CLOSED, open the piercing valve and get a gauge reading on your machine. Mine was pulling vacuum! It should have been 0 or maybe 1 PSI. (Yours may be different) SLOWLY add new freon a little at a time. Too much is as bad as not enough and could blow a high pressure line or ruin the compressor! Give it plenty of time to adjust and observe the temperature drop. I stopped when the freezer hit 5 degrees F and it ended up at ZERO!! Can't ask for more. Close the piercing valve, disconnect the kit and cap the valve tight. Then later enjoy a cold beverage...

One valve came broken, the rest ok