Power Inverter 2000w DC 12V to AC 120V ETL UL458 Compatible with Lithium Battery for Off-Grid Solar Car RV Truck Boat with LCD Display Remote Control 2 AC Outlets Dual 2.4A USB Ports by VOLTWORKS

I bought this inverter when I changed my system configuration to 24V. My old inverter was a 12V 1500Watt Pure Sine Wave and ran about 115V. It ran most things well, but couldn't handle my large ShopVac, and even with a minor load the fans on the inverter would cycle every couple minutes.This inverter runs everything I plug into it including a ShopVac and Refrigerator simultaneously. Its output is ~120V, the voltage drops little with heavy loads. Running 1,200 watts voltage does not go below 117V and averages around 118V.The fan rarely operates, in-fact it never cycles when the continuous load is less than 150W. So for me it will run my refrigerator and be absolutely silent. Had me worried at first that the fans might not work but the unit stays cool to the touch and the fans do work. Fan only runs when the unit hits 104F, so just keep the inverter in a nominal conditioned space of <80 degrees and you are good.My tests show it meets the claimed 90% efficiency and no load current of .9A (inverter on but no load). Power when turned off was in the milliamp range.I disliked the remote and lack of information on the pin-out as I use a relay to start the inverter. To turn on the inverter you either; push the button on the unit, button on remote, or use a relay to short pins 1+2 at the RJ9 port for ONE SECOND. Shorter duration will likely fail as the unit has to come up to the proper voltage for startup.I disliked the use of an RJ9 port, this is the narrow plug used on telephone handsets. Making it "unusual" to work with. And I had to buy some RJ9 crimp plugs for my bench stock.The information on the RJ9 port pin-4 is some kind of pulse coding, almost looks like garage door coding on my scope and the pulse duration and amplitude seems to follow the load. I am simply processing it as an analog signal (milli-volts) to determine if the inverter is on or off.The handheld remote provided does work, but having that wire is like being tied to a leash. Just seems like something you would have in the 80s. Hoping to get more information from the company.Other than those few issues, I rate this inverter as Excellent.1 Year Update:- Zero issues with this inverter for the past year. Not even an overload restart.- I use it 24/7, my daily peak is about 900Watts but on average I am drawing 280Watts from it 24/7.- Running from the inverter 24/7 are: 1 standard 17+cubic foot Refrigerator, 1 Air Cleaner, 2 PC Computers, 1 Base Station GMRS Radio, 1 Laptop, 2 End-Table Lamps and several USB charging stations.- Unit runs at 92% efficiency which is above the stated 90% efficiency. So for me if I draw 1000Watts of DC from the battery will run 920Watts of AC loads. This is great efficiency for any inverter.- The outlets are NOT GFCI (ground fault) protected. This is now a USA code issue for household inverter power, if you wish to have this feature I recommend you buy a GFCI with a pigtail plug. You plug that into the inverter and connect your loads to it.- GFCI or not make sure you ground the unit case solidly (quality connection). In addition (meaning you still need the case ground), you may want to connect the one of the inverter outlet grounds to a grid ground receptacle. DIY two male plugs and one wire, a 12AWG green wire. Just make sure both ends connect to ground or be ready for sparks and flames.- I stopped using the outlet signal from the RJ9 plug (pin 3/4) to determine on/off status of the inverter. Instead I use the 5Volt signal from the inverters USB port to determine status. (dah on me for not doing this first). And this USB method would likely work well with a small 5Volt relay.- Still using RJ9 port pin 1/2 to operate the inverter. Remember, needs to be shorted for 1 second to turn the unit on.- Picture 1 shows my rather custom and elaborate setup that may help some of you.- Picture 2 I included only for the DIY aspect of the lighted plug. Really some good benefits to using these lighted plugs... its lit so the inverter is on and electricity is at the plug.- I have an external box that my loads connect too. Inside the box I have a dual pole 16Amp supplemental circuit breaker and a contactor. The circuit breaker is as stated, supplemental. The contactor I use with a control system to transfer between inverter and grid.- This is a high frequency inverter so it is best for non-motor (non-inductive) loads, but clearly it handles my refrigerator and occasionally my shopvac without issue. However, if you plan on running something like a sump pump or AC at 1HP or more you may consider a higher rated inverter, or a similarly power rated Low Frequency Inverter. Low Frequency Inverters are bigger and cost more... But nothing beats getting the right stuff for the task you require of it.Bought a Second OneMy systems operates 24/7 as Off-Grid inverters do. Most of the components in my system were redundant. Multiple panels can be reconfigured, 2 charge controllers, 8 batteries etc. But the one single point of failure for me is the Inverter.So after running the first inverter for over a year with zero problems I bought a second one. Bagged up the first one and the second one has now been running flawlessly 24/7 for just over a month. The plugs were exactly the same, and it is performing exactly the same.My inspection of the unit that has been running for a year showed absolutely nothing of concern, and I was happy to see not much dust/dirt buildup on the fan or components. With electronics in general if they run for 90 days they tend to last a long time thereafter, often called a "burn-in" phase.Thinking this was another home run.... will do a third update if it proves untrue.

Haven’t had it that long but so far it is working. Hooked it up to my rig using 30 amp cord and it worked perfectly. I shut off the converter, water heater, and refrigerator first, it ran the TV and ice maker for 4 hours until it shut off due to low battery power. Solar recharged the battery and the unit started up again. 24 volt 200 amh battery, 400 watt solar, roof mounted.

The components are quality and compared to other inverters that are a few dollars less expensive, this inverter consistently uses less than .2 amps at idle with no load. I've used it all the time for almost a year with no problems. It displays the voltage and wattage of the load. A minor complaint would be the front push button on off switch is right in front of one of the outlets. It's easy to accidentally turn the unit off when plugging something into it and not even notice. That's not good if you just happened to plug in a refrigerator. I could make this inverter a little better with thicker cables and clamps but it's fine for my purposes. I'm usually run 300 watts or less but it's capable of 500 watts continuous and possibly a little more a few minutes at a time. I also like that the fan only comes on when needed. So it saves power. I use less battery power with this inverter and only turn on the big inverter for a few minutes at a time when needed.

I received this inverter from Voltworks for the purpose of writing a review. I had purchased a different model from them, their Pure Sine Wave 2000 Watt inverter and had corresponded knowledgeably about it so they asked me if I would be interested in reviewing this model.It arrived well-packed and the build quality is top-notch. A quick disassembly of the case showed a neat circuit board and the use of copper wire to the terminals. (see picture) The transformers used inside the inverter are a bit small, but that is pretty standard for high-frequency inverters.I connected it to a 173Ah LiFEPO battery using the included double wire leads and turned it on. The display was clear and you can watch the voltage gradually come up to 120 volts and stabilize. I hooked it up to my oscilloscope and it showed a single-step modified sine wave form. (see picture). The second oscilloscope picture is of the wave form while under load. (see picture).To test it under load I used several AC heaters and monitored the wattage using a Kill-a-watt meter. The inverter handled the rated load of 2000 watts without a problem. Keep in mind this is about 165 amps coming from the battery which is why an inverter of this size needs to be securely wired to a large battery or a regular battery with a high-capacity alternator running while under load.I connected a heater and a vacuum cleaner to test the claimed 4000 watt surge capacity of the inverter. To be honest, the Kill-a-watt meter does not show instantaneous or peak watts so it’s difficult to know the actual surge watts of the capacitive motor devices I tested. When I turned on the vacuum cleaner, the inverter would shut down and indicate ‘overload’ on the display. After a few seconds, the inverter would turn itself back on, and the voltage would ramp back up with the vacuum on, coming slowly up to speed, and then it would run within the rated 2000 watts. This is what Voltworks calls their “soft start” feature. It is designed to prevent overloads of the inverter when using capacitive type (spiking start loads) of motor type devices. I also tested a large DeWalt 15 amp tile saw and it shut down, then soft started and the saw ran OK.I tested the surge capacity again by using just straight resistive loads (heaters) and adding a small load above 2000 watts. The inverter would immediately shut down and display “overload”. This does not indicate a true surge capacity at all. I discussed this with Voltworks and they insisted that it does have a surge capacity of a few milliseconds. I explained to them that that is not really an actual surge capacity as the point of a surge capacity is so the inverter can handle those load-spike starts for a few seconds (even 5 to 10 seconds). However, their electronic shut-down and soft start effectively does the same thing, preventing damage to the inverter and allowing the current-spiking device to start and run. Of course, there may me some sensitive devices that this slow ramp-up of voltage could damage, but generally motor devices that would be in the high-amp category where this comes into play do just fine.The inverter comes with a nice remote on/off switch and battery meter. I also tested the built-in USB ports and they deliver a true 2.4 amps. I tested the inverter for efficiency with a high load for 1 kwh, and it came right to 90%. The stabilized no-load current draw of the inverter was relatively low at around a third of an amp from the battery. When the fan did run under high loads, it was relatively quiet and the inverter seemed to dissipate heat well.Keep in mind that this is a modified sine-wave inverter and some electronics and appliances are not happy with the type of juice they produce. The vacuum cleaner ran noticeably slower with this inverter as compared to Voltworks pure sine wave model.I am giving this inverter 4 stars because of the claimed 4000 watt surge capacity which is not the case. If they advertised it as just a 2000 watt inverter with electronic overload protection and soft-start capability then I would give it 5 stars.If you are in the market for a well-built modified sine wave inverter, I do recommend this model. Just understand the surge limitations and how the soft-start works. However, if you are willing to spend the extra money, I would recommend Voltwork’s Pure Sine Wave inverter, as the power it produces is just like the power coming out of your wall. It also has the surge capacity limitation and uses soft-start. That is my go-to inverter for running small appliances and the occasional tool off DC power. If you need an inverter with true surge capability, you should probably look elsewhere until/unless Voltworks can modify the way these inverters handle surges. But for most applications this one works well.