Patch - Black 4 oz - Filler & Seam Sealer | Ultimate Filler Adhesive | Patches Holes, Cracks in Steel, Wood, and Some Plastics | Strengthen Weakened Metal

I've used POR-15 paint before and I consider it to be a superior product if applied correctly. I painted a 300 gallon fuel tank in the boat with POR-15 and the tank came out fantastic. 1978 boat and the fuel tank is still in the boat looking great... So what happened was I discovered 3 pinholes in the oil pan of the diesel in another boat. This is a Mack E7M, which isn't made any more and which is getting harder and harder to find parts for. What to do? Spend $10,000 or more to pull the motor and hope to find a new pan? Even if I find a new pan, should I put this old motor back in knowing parts are virtually non-existent? POR-15 Patch to the rescue. I used the black patch but I probably should have used the gray, which has metal flakes in it. Regardless, the patch worked. It's holding, even at 60 PSI cold and 50 PSI hot. What I did: Bought the paint kit in addition to the patch. This kit includes the alkaline degreaser, the primer, a small can of POR-15 paint, a pair of gloves, and foam applicator. I bought the kit intending to use the degreaser and primer, and maybe touch up with paint. Turned out, lying in the bilge, the only way to apply the patch was with a heavy rubber glove. I used some fiberglass mat material as well but I didn't need to and looking back wish I hadn't. Step one: Dilute degreaser, wire brush off loose rust, wipe clean, then wash area to be treated with degreaser. Step two: Thoroughly rinse degreaser off with fresh water. Step three: Thoroughly dry. Step four: (for bare metal): Apply primer. Step five: Slather on patch as thick as you want. Cure time is 4 days. That's a long time but it's worth waiting. POR 15 is not a rust converter. It's a urethane treatment that cures to a very hard finish and bonds extremely strongly to etched or rusted surfaces. It stop rust because it creates a waterproof, airtight bond to the rusted surface. The curing rate will be slower the thicker the coating, but humidity or moisture will accelerate to process because it is a urethane based product. It's very important that your surface be prepped correctly and absolutely dry before applying product. This tube of patch has saved me tthoysand of dollars.

Worked as advertised, dried like steel. Was super easy to use on a rusted corner of a truck before I bedlined over it. Also sealed the drip edge before bedline. The next day it was solid as solid can be.

Good stuff. Impervious to gasoline Works well when used in thin layers as opposed to heavy. (Will take a lot longer to dry).

I bought this specifically to patch an HDPE fuel tank EVAP valve. It does not claim to work on this material but I was trying different adhesives. I sanded a spot on the tank and applied a test bead. Let it dry for two days but was able to peel it right off. Nothing really sticks to HDPE and I ended up heat welding it. Did use it for a couple of other things like patching a roof on a metal shed. It worked great on aluminum. It dries very hard and strong.

I have used the POR 15 in brush form. This now in tubes, I am restoring a 68 Camaro and after sanding my cowl down to bare metal I found a few small holes below the windshield. I used the tube sparingly to fill a couple holes. 24 hours later I sanded down the spots and painted primer over them. Good as new. Great product just don’t get it on your hands, it won’t come off.

I have a rough car that I could not justify cutting out the rusted cowl (metal area below your windshield where wipers mount) in. I determined the leaks into the interior were from other areas of the cowl where the panels mate to the firewall so after grinding out the 40 year old caulking and hitting with a wire wheel I used the POR-15 semi gloss black paint and a couple days later used the POR patch. It has a heavy viscosity that flowed and simulated the factory caulking perfectly on my A-body GM car and I have seen zero leaks and don't ever expect to. Now back to the heavily rusted cowl that i decided to experiment with the POR patch on. It had multiple totally rusted out areas but as the affected areas would not generate additional interior leaks and the entire rusted out area was covered by a wide stainless steel factory trim piece I decided to save a bunch of money and avoid needless delays waiting on a bodyshop to drag me out on. I ordered two tubes of this patch which was enough to seal all the cowl seams mentioned earlier and also enough to patch the swiss cheesed cowl AFTER my additional mods to help bridge the gaps and reduce the thickness of the POR patch needed. First I bought a cheap sponge and cut into smaller strips and soaked that in my POR-15 paint and I soaked the front of the cowl area as well as the underside of the cowl to stop the rust dead in it's tracks. Then I ordered a 1'x1' sheet of very fine stainless 316 grade stainless steel. Measured out each rusted section, found perimeter metal that was still strong and drilled the cowl there and through the metal screw I supported underneath with wooden paint stirring sticks so I didn't ventilate my hand lol. Then I used stainless steel 1/8" diameter pop rivets (recessed them down flush with ballpeen hammer)to secure the screen to the cowl. It's hard to support sagging areas of the mesh screen from behind in the tight cowl area so I crammed foam or rags temporarily behind the screen to force it higher to limit the amount of POR patch needed. Due to the thick viscosity and the very tight screen mesh(#40 .010) I did not have any bleed through the screen to the temporary support materials. I used the POR patch straight out of the tube without the reducing nozzle since I had large areas to cover and then I skimmed the excess off with a razor blade and used what was left on the blade for pin hole areas which it filled without a second thought. I am sure many folks will disapprove of this method verses a very expensive cowl replacement but I have used POR products for decades and swear by all of them. The seams are all sealed,the rotted cowl is one solid piece again and my interior is dry. I have much more time than money these days and as always POR products did the job without breaking a sweat. Just get some heavy mil gloves unless you like stained skin for weeks and there thinner/cleaner did a great job of removing both products from my arms or areas I did not want it on the car.Highly recommended product! : )

Used this to eliminate rust issues on my old van. For big holes I coated fiberglass mesh and applied. It cured hard as a rock. Two years later with this and the paint and very little rust happening underneath. I used coraseal as well on the larger areas and that's where I see tiny bits coming back.

液体POR15では施工し辛く少しでも早く作業が出来るかと購入。狙い通りの商品で、充填剤のパテとしても可能で手間も省け作業が進みます。 使用にあたって伸びも良く容量も多めなので価格以上の商品です。今度はブラック色で注文します。

錆穴のあいたボディ補修やいろいろ、これは使えます。一晩でほぼ硬化する感じ、２，３日たてば硬化後はがちがちに硬化してます。夏場は塗って１時間もしないうちに指触乾燥してます。 錆穴のあいたフェンダーのフチや 凸凹面の補強成型、細かいサビ穴埋め に使っています。 錆びない素材だし、かなり硬くなるので いい補修素材です。ファイバーグラスなどを混ぜるなどすればもっと強度は出るのかも。アイデア次第。 難を言えば、一度開けると、キャップの部分、かなり硬く固まってます。その都度、チューブの横に穴をあけるなどをして絞り出してます。なるべく短時間に使い切るのが吉。

You ain't sanding this off. You'll need a grinder.

Excellent

This stuff is THICK. Works wonders for covering over/patching small holes in rusty steel, as well as a more rigid seam sealer for rusty corners. I use this stuff for sealing corners, small holes or gaps in my automotive projects whenever there is surface rust or rust scale. If you applied regular seam sealer over rust, it would eventually rot out, whereas this stuff actually seals it and hardens to create a rust-proof seal on whatever youre working on. I find its thick enough to cover small pinholes from welding patch panels in as well.