Professional 6pc Leather Hollow Punch Set, Size 1.0-5.0mm, Black, Steel, Manual, 6 Holes, Free Mini Cutting Mat

Absolutely amazing! Very sharp & leave crisp, clean holes every time. I've purchased a few different hole punches for my leatherwork and these are by far the best. Highly recommend.

I have small 6 inch wrists so I picked these up to add some extra holes to some leather NATO watch bands. A couple light taps with a hammer and you have perfect adjustment holes in your leather bands. They seem like they will last a long time as well and came with a sleeve to store them in.

I am not a leather worker or hobbyist. But I am a tool snob and I like precision and versatility, which I am willing to sacrifice for convenience.I needed to add some holes to some nicer leather watch bands I got for my new Galaxy Watch4. The rotary punches I looked at all seemed too big and awkward, with hole sizes starting at 2.5 and going up rapidly from there. Fine for belts, but not watch bands. Also, I wasn't convinced they would punch precisely while squeezing the grips, or that they would be sharp enough to cut a clean, straight hole. So I was happy to stumble across this set.First, it has a great range of sizes. Some big enough for belts and shoes, but plenty on the small size for watch bands. I ended up needing both the 1.5 and 2 mm for two different bands, but there were still sizes above and below those in this set.The best part is how cleanly and straight they cut their holes. Just a few strong taps with a nylon face brass hammer and they were through - even on a thick double-layer leather and suede band. The holes were perpendicular, with clean edges, and the punch-out easy to clear. As a bonus, this set takes a lot less storage space than a rotary punch, and comes with a matt that will be handy for other things. Even has a vinyl storage pouch.No oils, corrosion, or odd smells, either. Just a nice, quality set of punches for a very fair price.

These are pretty good for the money. It is nice to have dedicated hole punches, rather than a hole punch kit with one shaft and several different sized tips. However, these punches are quite short and we often maul our pointer finger knuckle where it attaches to the hand, as it is difficult to hold the hole punch while fitting our hand below the level of the top of the short hole punch. When we strike the hole punch, we often strike that knuckle first, which is consistently painful.Also, these punches have some type of coating, perhaps black oxide, likely to prevent rust from forming on the metal while warehoused in humid climates, or during transpacific shipping. These coatings, often found on eastern leather craft tools, interfere with the use of these tools, specifically in regards to leather craft. Often punching/stitching irons with these coatings make it exceptionally difficult to remove the iron from the leather once it has been punched, which can damage the leather during the attempted extraction. The same is true for these hole punches. They have about a millimeter of sharpened steel showing at the tip of the punch, but it is common to punch through significantly more than 1mm of leather. These punches can get stuck in the leather. Not as badly as stitching irons, but some twisting and pulling can be necessary to remove the punches from the leather, potentially causing the same type of damage or stretching, or fatigue of the leather.There are also grind marks around the punching tip of these hole punches. Basically where the punches were tapered into a cone, and sharpened, there are many, hundreds? of ridges around the punching end of the hole punch. I believe the black oxide coating may have also been used to cover up these tooling marks. But, these ridges act somewhat like velcro, or ridged nails or screws, the ridges lock into the material of the leather, and make extraction of the punch more difficult than it needs to be, and again, potentially damaging your leather project.You can fix all of these problems, if you take sole responsibility for your actions, and are competent working with tools and modifying tools. I fixed my punches, and they are significantly better. I chucked up each punch in my cordless drill, though a corded drill is even better, and used small strips of sandpaper, pinched around the tip of the punch, which was spinning at max speed in my drill. These punches arrive sharp, so please keep in mind you're pinching with your fingers, only separated by the width of your sandpaper, a circular knife blade spinning at several hundred or perhaps, thousands of RPM.FIrst, I started with about 220 grit, high quality sand paper. After a few minutes, and a few strips, I'd pretty much removed most of the gritty black oxide, or whatever type of coating it is, except for that left in the tooling grooves ringing the conic section, the tip of hole punch. Then I stepped up to a silicon carbide wet dry sandpaper at 400 grit. I proceeded to spin the punch at max speed in my drill and sanded off most of the tooling rings, and the black oxide in their deepest valleys.Then, I stepped up to 800 grit SC sandpaper and removed the last of the tooling marks left by Owden's manufacturing. I may have used the paper wet at this stage, can't recall, I did all the punches in a couple of sessions. After the 800 grit removed the very last of the tooling marks and black oxide, I began to shape the conic section of the hole punch. The hole of each punch is roughly the correct size, I have not metered them, but I expect them to be accurate, but, the punch tip flares out quite wide, so while the actual hole of the hole punch is 2mm, the tip of the hole punch quickly flares out to 4mm, then 5mm. The effect of this is the punch can stretch out your leather around the hole. So if you have a rivet that needs a 2mm hole/shaft to sit in, the outside dimension of these punches can create a 3, 4mm hole.Basically, the tips are too thick for the size of the hole being punched (not on the 1, and 1.5mm punches, they're sized relatively well). So, I thinned the punch tips, so they didn't flare out so wide. You have to make sure you don't heat up the tips. You might have to step down to more aggressive grits to do the shaping, I think I did, I think I went back down to 220, shaped them, and then went back up the grits to 800-1000. After that, I used a spongier strop loaded with Tandy's Jeweler's Rouge, the white stuff, but you can use any honing, polishing compounds, wet, dry or waxy. You just want a mirror finish on the conic hole punching area of the punch.So after those couple hours of work, these punches are FANTASTIC. With our old Tandy punches, we had to POUND the punch to get it through leather, not with these Owdens. Just this morning, I taped the punch just to get ready to strike it, and just that tap put in a perfectly sized, totally clean (not hairy at all) hole. We can punch SO much faster now. If we've marked out four locations for a 2mm hole on the bottom of a handbag, it's just bam, bam, bam, bam. DONE!I swear, you don't know how much time you are losing using those multi-tip punches, and using punches that have a coating on them... how much time you spend spinning, twisting, trying to pull the punch out of the leather. It really adds up. If you want to do leather work professionally, it is all about speed AND accuracy. These Owden punches will get you both, if you make the modifications I discussed. And I'm finding, we have to modify all of the leather working tools we purchase. We don't buy super high end tools, maybe they don't need modification, but anything that is reasonably priced, even expensive stuff, they'll still require some modifications, just to make them work better, more cleanly, more quickly, just the way you want them to work.OR, you can go out and buy a set of this type of punches and spend $150 on a 5 punch set, or buy them individually for $30 each. Maybe they won't need any work. Maybe your time is worth that expenditure? Maybe you don't have the tools to modify your tools? Maybe you don't have the skills? It's all up to you, and what you want to do.But this set now works excellently after a couple hours modifying them, taking the coating off the punching tips, thinning the tips down a bit, and polishing them to a shining mirror finish. They punch effortlessly, and just naturally pop right out. We've used them on the little, like 4 inch pounding mat included with this set, but really we use them on a large slab of Poundo. But, we plan on switching to an HDPE cutting board, but old tools and techniques die hard.AND ONE LAST THING!We wish that there wasn't a 1mm and a 1.5mm punch in this set. We wish the 1.5mm was a 6mm punch instead. We don't need our leather punches in 0.5mm steps, but we do need LARGER punches. We do wish that we bought a set that went from 1mm to 12mm, or even up to 25mm! OR EVEN BETTER, if they were in SAE, Imperial measurements! But whatever. This set of punches is great, is a great value, and work very well if you modify them.ALL THE BEST!

Excellent hollow punch set. Sturdy construction, simple to work with, and makes perfect round holes.

I have smaller wrists so finding a watch that fits snugly is 50/50. I got tired of some of my watches sliding up, down, and around my wrist so I bought this tool to remedy it. It's simple and it works. You don't need a lot of power to punch a hole through most straps. Just a couple taps with a hammer is all that's needed. The mini cutting mat is a nice bonus so you don't ruin the surfaces in your home.

It’s difficult to find hollow punches that are well made, for a decent price. In reading reviews for this type of product, I realize that, people don’t understand why, they are paying an increased cost for tools of this type. The important aspect necessary for these to be useful, is the shape & hardness of the actual cutting edge. These are, symmetrical, evenly machined & the hardening process is visible at the tip of the punches. For the price these are an excellent product. Many complaints about the “sharpness” are being reported for all punches, in or below, the price range for this item. All punches become dull & need to be redressed on a frequent basis. The edge provided by the manufacturer is really only needed to give them the proper form & shape. These definitely provide that. Using an electric drill & 240 grit sandpaper over a block will provide a perfect edge & tip for excellent holes. If you want ones, that come this way, you will have to pay a very large price. Ones that come with a precision edge on the tips, are machined & then, hand sharpened. These are extremely easy to dress to a good cutting ability, with minimal effort. An excellent product at this price.

These hole punches are fantastic. I've used them daily for months and they have no dulled in the least.