Lowrider Dynamo Generator 12V 6W. Bike Light Part, Bicycle lightpart, Beach Cruiser, Chopper, Limo, Stretch Bike, BMX, Track, Fixie

This is the best dynamo you can buy. It doesn't put excessive drag on your wheel, it outputs a ton of power. It's designed so efficiently, cheap and best of all, it's NOT made in China! Tung Lin is a Taiwanese company and the box says "Made in Taiwan" on it proudly.It comes with mounting hardware but if your fork is very wide then you will need longer screws from your hardware store, or have to figure out a custom clamp - I used pipe strap.Here is how to use it:Run a wire from the H side to your light (make sure it's rated for 12v or more - I use a MR16 bulb, inspired by the Review by Ryan Roth). From the light, make sure there's a path back to the dynamo hub itself. Grounding into the frame will work if you are willing to use the included screw to pierce thru the paint, but if not you can just run the wire back to the dynamo and tape it in place. You will need to do it this way if you isolate the dynamo from the frame with electrical tape to protect your paint. Make sure to back the ground screw out before installing as it can interfere with the bracket. As well, be sure that the dynamo is in line with the radius of the wheel, not in line with a spoke. The more off-line the dynamo is the greater the excess drag will be wasted on it.This can also be used to charge devices or attach any automotive/ATV/Ebike component that runs off 12VDC, you just have to make it run to a rectification circuit and voltage regulator first. There's lots of ways to do this but it requires some electronics skills and I'm not good at it enough myself to explain it.If you don't want to DIY much, there are affordable dynamo lights made by a finnish company called Herrmans, in Finland. As well as numerous vintage options on the used market and probably in your local bike shop's bins. High end german dynamo lights are also available, but those are more aimed at the dynohub market in price.

Works great! Does have locking switch to keep off of tire when not needed. Came with mounting bracket and has plenty of volts to work bulbs. Great product.

This is a solid little device but I had to learn a couple of things to be able to use it. First, its an AC generator so you can't power LEDs without a rectifier and both terminals are outputs, not hot and common like you might think. H is a higher output for a headlight and T is a much lower output for a taillight. I hooked up 5 5vdc LEDs in parallel from a bridge rectifier to the H terminal and they get very bright with enough rpm. I was not able to find an LED light kit that would work with this dynamo so I assembled my own.

This is exactly what I was looking for. A bottle dynamo with solid construction, and 6 watts instead of 3. Be warned, the way this thing clamps on your bike it will crush and chip the paint. Don't think you can mount this on carbon or aluminum bikes. I've set it up with both H and T outputs going to their own full bridge rectifiers with 3300 uf 50v filter caps. The ground I have attached to a mounting bolt on the bracket.The lower voltage T powers my headlight which is simply 3 LEDs on a board. There's no current regulator but I've gone 35 mph plenty of times and they haven't burned out yet. The H output goes to a 5v usb regulator board with an input voltage of 6.5-40 volts and has a handy volt meter on it. the usb charger powers up at a low speed like 5 mph or something, so its basically always on. I can ride up to about 22-23 mph and the voltmeter starts touching 40v. Any faster might burn out the circuit board.The only thing I don't like about this is the noise. It sounds like my bike is a little RC car zipping along. It's not very harmonious when I'm commuting down my dead silent side streets at 5 am in the morning. BUT it's not too loud and you just get used to it like it's not there. Honestly I would like to upgrade to a hub dynamo, but this is a great and inexpensive substitute until then.

I received this dynamo promptly from vendor "Top Lowrider". The Tung-Lin is an excellent dynamo -- compact, reliable, and high power. It has two terminals, "T" and "H", intended for connecting a low voltage tail light or higher voltage headlight. It produces an AC voltage and frequency proportional to speed. The voltage produced corresponds to 1.3 Vrms per km/h of road speed at a frequency of 9.3 Hz/km/h. For example, at a bicycle speed of 15.5 mph (25 km/h) on a 27" wheel the dynamo turns at a rate of 116 turns/sec and the "H" terminal produces an unloaded AC waveform of 32.6 Vrms at 233 Hz. (In my test setup I protected the dynamo friction wheel with a few O-rings, increasing its diameter and reducing its speed about 14%.) The power produced depends on how well the load is matched to the dynamo's internal impedance, but at that speed it is a maximum of 14.4 W at a current of 700 mArms into a load resistance of 30 ohms. There are of course some losses if you use a bridge rectifier, but these typical specs give you a feel for the power it can produce. I measure the internal impedance of the "H" winding at 9.3 ohm and 17.7 mH.

nothing the matter with it just not good for my experiment.

Not 12v I aspected.Won’t run full 12v leds lights. Buy it if you got very low voltage leds.

I gave it 4 stars only because I have not used it yet but it will do perfectly for my barrel wind turbine.