GasOne BS-40 Stainless Steel Kettle Pot Pre Drilled 4 PC Set Quart Tri Ply Bottom for Beer Includes Lid, Thermometer, Ball Valve Spigot-Home Brewing Supplies, 40 QT/10 GALLON

You've probably skimmed through the other reviews about quality control and assembly, so I'll advance to the giving ANSWERS to the questions I had before purchasing, and TIPS to making this a fantastic pot on brew day!OVERALL - looks like i got a good one, and it's performed nicely for 1 brew so far. Item is shipped in manufacturers box (too bad no Amazon option to box the box), and it's packaging is lacking on the side walls, which is why people have dents. Welds are solid, lid fits snug, and parts are machined very well w/ very little particles left over. Instructions ARE lack luster, and could use more illustrations, but hopefully if you've read this far, you'll get to the good stuff...now!ASSEMBLY - Requires you to put on thermometer and valve, and comes w/ two open ended wrenches to do so. You NEED TO TAKE APART ALL PIECES FIRST (see 2nd pic). They package the valve w/ the threaded male coupler inside the vavle - take it out. Reassemble using the instruction's illustration. TIP: the threaded male coupler has two different sides, so if it's not threading properly, turn it around. Assemble it from inside the pot, moving out (YES, i know you wanna put it all together, and then stick it on the pot- DON'T). Go piece by piece, inside to out. There's plenty of pipe tape to go around (I was able to do this, tape in/out of a pump, 4 more in/outs of a heat exchanger, and 3 sets of threads for a barb at the end of the valve - so plenty). No need for 10 wraps. Just need 2-3 wraps if done properly.POT PREP - While it's well made, it still has a few short comings like the bottom - it's rough (3rd pic). So don't go dragging that thing all over your countertops or glass induction top! Use a metal scrubby to take down/off all the excess metal filings, bumps, etc. TIP: Use a toothbrush to help clean the parts. After thoroughly washing, make sure the valve is closed, fill, heat, and test for leaks.ADDITIONAL PARTS - If you didn't get the one w/ bazooka, no worries, just get your own. All fitings are a standard 1/2" NPT size. FEMALE on valve outlet, and MALE on inside of pot. Consider this when getting your bazooka (see pic 4), or barb end (pic 5). Inside the pot, there's only just over 9" of clearance between the male thread of the valve inlet to the opposite wall of the pot. This means you CAN'T fit a 12" bazooka (and who wants to mess w/ just a 6"'). If you get a 12", you can simply trim, and use pliers to refold the open end. Leave yourself clearance so it can be installed/removed for cleaning.RANDOM COMMENTS - Wall thickness, while on the thin side, helps w/ weight, heating/cooling speed. It's sturdy enough to do what it needs to do when full. Volume markings are in gallons only, note every 1/4 gallon, and embossed into the pot. I did the math already - there's more value in getting this pot over making your own. I'm all for DIY, but consider that stainless is tough, the holes need to be precise, and the time...just start brewing already!

After reading reviews from purchasers of this kettle I was aware of issues - most seemed to be shipping or assembly related. I purchased it with the intent of returning it if it didn't work out.The box was in good shape upon delivery and the contents were in good shape as well. All components were wrapped and undamaged.The valve handle was in a configuration that pointed it toward the kettle to open it. The distance from the valve to the kettle made it impossible to completely open the valve. Some valve designs allow you to remove the handle and replace it 180 degrees but not this one. This was also one of the problems noted in the reviews.Fear not, as there is a fix for this!! The female threads in each end of the valve are the same size, so unscrew the entire assembly out of the end of the valve (hex nuts and all - keep it together) and screw it into the other end of the valve. Snug it up good and assemble into the kettle. The valve handle will now operate in the proper direction. The valve operation is very stiff - so stiff that operation of the valve will bend the side of the kettle - which can lead to cracks and/or leaks. Install a stainless nipple into the discharge side of the valve and WITH GLOVES or pliers hold the nipple on the discharge side when opening and closing the valve. This will take stress off of the kettle wall around the valve.If using this kettle over a fire (campfire or propane burner) you will need to guard the valve assembly from direct flame contact as this will damage the o-ring seals. Placing a piece of sheet metal under the kettle directly under the valve will help shield the flame contact from the seals. If you need to replace the o-ring seals be sure to use the same type. Rubber o-rings will NOT withstand the heat.The kettle is fabricated from thin steel, so cracking is a possibility if subjected to extreme heat. Slow even heating should assure years of service.

Had the pleasure of running this 4 x now both time indoors no real issues easy cleaning Great Value and seems very durable. Only complain is they don't really have a standoff that works well for it but I'm going to cry about it for a little while and then I'm going to either make one or find one that works😪

So I’ve used this kettle twice so far. It’s good. Yes the welds are crap, almost like some kid or somebody who had no idea wtf they were doing. Having said that, beyond that flaw, it appears to be a good solid kettle. I added a strainer screen to the inside fitting, and a quick disconnect to hose to drain. For the price I like this thing but I do advise the two upgrades I just mentioned if brewing beer to get better usage out of this thing.

Use to bottle maple syrup, working very well, constructed well

Bought this for small batch brewing. Connected a PEX 90 degree elbow and silicone hose to the ball valve and everything worked out great.