Keychron K10 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, 104 Keys Full Size Gateron G Pro Brown Switch, White LED Backlight Rechargeable USB-C Wired Bluetooth Professional Office Keyboard for Mac/Windows

2 months Update:I have used the keyboard now for a while on daily bases. I got to test it even further beyond my initial review and enjoyed having some fun with it by modifying it beyond its stock status (Please see the updated photo with the Blue keycaps for its current status). There is nothing to change in my original review as it still holds true. Love the consistent performance and i still find myself looking forward to typing on it. It is worth mentioning through that only once that i ran into some bluetooth switching issue were the keyboard did not want to reconnect to my Macbook pro and i had to restart the bluetooth on the Mac to address it. Turning off blutooth and on again on the Mac resolved the issue and the keybaord connected successfully right after (Not sure if it was the keyabord or the Macbook Pro bluetooth misbehaving when it happened). I still recommend this keyboard and i am keeping the 5 stars rating i gave it. I will list below the mods I've done in case there is an interest to do something similar.1. Replaced the stock ABS keycaps with better PBT key caps - I tired few brands and settled on Matrix Keycaps. This improved the quality of the keys dramatically and also improved the typing experience from feel and sound perspective. (Please keep in mind the short (1.75u right shift key was a bit of a hassle to find fitting keycaps for it).2. I lubed both the Gateron Brown switched and the stabilizers - Completely transformed the experience on the keyboard to a whole new level that exposed the excellent foundation that this keyboard is. I really think KeyChron should consider have the keyboards sold with the switches lubed already.3. replaced the USB-C cable - This is mostly cosmetic as i wanted to match the color of my setup.I hope the above is answers your questions and concerns. Best of luck with your purchase!Cheers!--------------------------Initial Review:Product arrived even earlier than the projected time. Was packaged really well and sealed as it came out from the manufacture. High quality product that looks even better than the detailed photos presented on the site and works flawlessly. Within the first 5 minutes i had it connected to my three computers (Windows Desktop, Windows laptop and a MacBook Pro) at my desk over Bluetooth without any issues. I love the ability to pretty much configure everything from the keyboard itself without having to download software to do that. Even then the configuration from the keyboard was super easy and strait forward.As far as rating it in comparison to other mechanical keyboards, this is a super nice one and runs with the the best of them out there especially in this price point. Typing on it is a joy and the Gateron Brown switches are perfect in feel and sound but to be honest this is all about personal preference. Not as loud and clicky as the MX switches but super smooth and just the right click noise for me. If you are not familiar with those then i recommend watching any of the videos on You tube that specifically provide the noise and feel comparison between them and the other switches in the market.The one thing i would've wished for is brighter LEDs and initially that is not an issue if you are planning on continuing to use the included Keycaps but if you are planning on upgrading to PBT Keycaps then that might be a concern for you. The quality of the PBT keycaps you will be buying might or might not impact the visibility of the lED lighting. I definitely recommend this product.Thanks for the premium product all around.

TL;DR -- I really like my keyboard with some minor complaints about the F and J key locator bumps and a firmware bug. Recommended.Charging from 'dead' takes about 4.5 hrs. In my practical use, running with dimmest backlight and default 10 min sleep gives about 1 week run time.DR:This is for the Keychron K10-A3. There are several variants of this K10 keyboard: White/RGB, Plastic/Metal, Soldered/"Hot-swappable", ABS/PBT, key action. So scrutinize the details of the item, and choose your key stem color well.The unit weighs about 2 lb. It comes with a 4' USB cable, a keycap puller, and some alternative keycaps for Windows configuration. It also comes with a cardboard showing the keyboard and a plastic moulded 'cover'. These seem like protective product packaging, but they're actually handy if you later disassemble the keyboard so don't throw them away.I was not hip to the jive about colored key stems -- I mean, you can't see them, so why would I care, right -- but, lol, how ignorant I was. If you don't know already, the colors are a scheme to indicate the key action. Squishy/tactile, hard/soft, clicky/silent. There's a panoply of colors and you can look them up on the web ("key switch color meaning"), but I chose 'brown' which are apparently clicky with medium actuation force.I love the browns! They're pretty clicky, so you might prefer the reds if you're sharing an office. Know also that there are 'key testers' you can buy that have a sample of each to try before you commit. And for the pathologically indecisive, there is a 'hot-swappable' variant where you can pull out the switches and replace them without having to desolder. Some folks replace a just subset of the keys with those having different action. E.g. more firm/clicky for space, enter, etc. Who knew that keyboards became a sport/cult, but I'm here for it!Also, this unit has ABS keys (not PBT). The texture is good - 'velvety' I'd say; we'll have to see how it holds up over time, but I'm accustomed to the keys becoming polished after years of use. (PBT holds up better, and is an option.) These are double-shot, and none of the routinely used keys have printing. So you won't have to worry about wearing off the legend. ABS is more translucent than PBT, so the backlight shows through well. I do wish that the 'locator dimples' on F and J were more palpable, so I suppose I'll have to get used to looking at the keyboard.My unit has a white backlight. I did not know and had intended to get RGB (because a girl needs her bling), but you know, white is just fine. It's a keyboard! For typing! Do I need to be mesmerised? Similarly, there's a panoply of nifty lighting sequences, but after watching them once I set mine to the more pedestrian 'solid'.The unit provides orange versions of the ESC and 'light' keys, which I am using because they are pretty. They are also translucent through the orange plastic, so some might not prefer that. But you can change them both with the included alternative keycaps. Similarly, as shipped, the unit is configured for Mac, but includes Windows keycaps for the Alt and Windows keys, which I used.Speaking of backlight, there are 5 levels: off, and 1-4. The fn-F5 and fn-F6 set the keyboard backlight level. Frankly, the lowest setting is fine for me when coding in the dark. And maybe it saves some power.There are four indicator lamps: Num lock, Caps lock, and Mac and Windows. They are blue, which I generally dislike, but these are thankfully dimmed enough to be seen but not blinded. Blue is kind of nice this way!I have no idea why there needs to be Mac/Windows indicator lamps unless maybe you switch between the two a lot? There's a switch on the side to set that, so you should know already. No 'scroll lock' lamp, but did we ever really use that? Come to think of it, I do not see a Scroll Lock button or a Pause/Break. This might be a problem for some gamers. Not so much for me as a coder. No PrintSc/SysRq either; now that might annoy me. There are two unknown buttons with icons that looks like a 'crop' and a 'mic', so maybe I can re-map those. The manual doesn't describe them. I presume fn-F1, -F2 are for laptop backlights? And who knows what fn-F3 and -F4 are? A voyage of discovery awaits.One annoyance is that there seems to be a firmware bug where waking the keyboard fails to restore the indicator state for numlock and caps lock. Internally, the keyboard retains the state correctly, but it simply does not restore the lamps when it wakes. Toggling either numlock or caplock will update them both to the correct state, so as a workaround I can make a habit of waking the keyboard with three clicks of caps lock -- one to wake, and two to cause the update. I'll send a bug report to support. I am a bit surprised something like that would have slipped by. It should be trivial to fix.Speaking of waking, it takes about 3-5 seconds to wake from sleep. As shipped, sleep happens after about 10 minutes of disuse. There are some key combos to alter the sleep time:fnSLO - disable sleep (you won't know the state, though)fnSRL - 10 min (the factory default)fnSLT - 20 minfnSLY - 30 minIt's a minor annoyance that there's not an indicator of which mode you're in (sleep enabled/disabled), so you just have a wait and see if it goes to sleep or not.Another annoyance is that the keystrokes entered upon waking are 'eaten' until the unit has 'booted up' and re-established connection. I would much prefer that they be buffered as I find it jarring. My job involves shifting between typing and reading and it's not uncommon for the keyboard to go to sleep while I'm reading and before I return to typing. So I'd like to have those buffered rather than my noticing that they are lost and have to retype.I did some simple tests for battery performance. The battery out-of-box comes about 40% full (common practice in the industry as this maximizes shelf life in inventory), so first I charged it to completion. Under the assumption that backlighting dominates the power draw over keystroke signaling, I disabled sleep and set the backlight to maximum and waited until the unit lost power. This took 27 hours.Then I put it on a charger until completion. This took 4.5 hours. This is 50% longer than the 3 hours Keychron claims. Mind you, I put it on a 'fast charger' that has an up to 33 W power delivery capability, and up to 15 W when just in 5 V mode (i.e. 3 A). For comparison, it charges the 8380 mAh battery in my phone in about an hour, so I suspect this unit is not "USB Power Delivery" capable.This unit claims a big honking 4,000 mAh battery, so the 4.5 hours would translate to 888 mA charge current. Simple charge management chips often have a 1 A maximum, so this is probably what is being used here, and would explain the lack of USB-PD. The lack of PD is not a deal breaker for me, but it would be nice to rapidly recharge when the battery does go kaput.There is a 'beta' feature in my current firmware whereby fn-B, when held down, will show a rough estimate of charge. Pressing (and holding) fn-B will extinguish back light rows:* no rows extinguished: > 70 %* one row extinguished (the F keys): 30 to 70%* two rows extinguished (the number keys): < 30 %* all rows extinguished: dead battery (lol)In my practical use I found this to be non-linear. I got about 3 days when in the 70-100% range, 4 days when in the 30-70% range, and one day when in the 0-30% range.I would have preferred using the number keys 1 - 0 as a 'bar graph', but perhaps whatever fuel gauge scheme is being used does not have sufficient resolution. Maybe even more so, a feature that causes some visible indication when it's going low; say, flashing the win/mac lights or something. Every single key has an addressable lamp, and can serve as some sort of indicator in some way. In the meantime, I'll try to make a habit of topping up when I get to < 30% at end-of-day. You can still go for quite a while when you first hit < 30% -- many hours; nearly a day.So do not pack away the provided USB cable forever. You might need it if you're in a power pinch. Otherwise you'll lose your "I'm working" excuse for procrastinating household chores like vacuuming and folding the laundry. Also, if you need to get into BIOS, or boot from a CD/USB stick, those sorts of tools typically do not support Bluetooth keyboards, so you may need to go wired in those cases.The battery is Lithium, which is not especially my favorite technology, but primary cells are not an option since the backlight takes so much power. You would go through a set of AAs every few weeks. But lithium cells age, losing capacity. The act of charging causes damage, and they will age a little even if not used at all. If there is a fuel gauge, I would have preferred there to be an option to halt charging at 80%, which has been shown to maximize cell lifetime.So, the battery is eventually going to die and need to be replaced. There is not battery compartment, so that must involve opening up the unit.Under the HoodDisassembly is challenging. You will feel like you're going to break it, and you could if you're not careful. I found the instructions on the company's website to be a bit vague and also not entirely applicable since they are for the 'pro' version. So this commentary may be of use to someone.First, you must pull all the key caps. The thin plastic keyboard cover that came in the packaging is useful here. It can be inverted and used to hold all the keycaps in their proper place as you remove them, making subsequent reassembly easier. The printed layout is useful in cause you slip and jumble the loose keycaps into a heap.<<<01-KeysOff>>>There are 21 screws. A 1/8" Phillips will work. Yes, 21 -- one is hidden.You must remove the top plastic bezel. It is snapped into place with small moulded fingers. You can flex those fingers towards the interior while simultaneously applying upwards pressure to release it from the bottom metal plate. A proper spudger or two is handy, though I used a small flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to mar the surface or damage the plastic. If you scratch the metal plate's finish, you can use sharpie.Let me show you all the points where the fingers are on the bezel so you can better know where to spudge effectively. You'll do best applying pressure to where the fingers are, and work from left to right. In the upper right there are two fingers that work backwards from all the others, so it is best to do them last.<<<02-BezelFingers>>>After you remove the top plastic bezel, you will have access to the hidden 21st screw in the top right, under the 'Win' lamp, above the '-' key on the numeric keypad. There is a light guide which floats free, so be mindful of that lest it go flying away when you get the bezel cover detached.<<<03-ScrewsOutAndLightPipe>>>With that removed, the PCV assembly comes out a bit easier. Start from the top right, pry up. The holes in the plate where the bezel was attached make a useful leverage point against the back case section. Bring the assembly upwards from the right side, and then it should be able to be freed from the left. Keep in mind the two slide switches. There are plastic actuators that must mate to the physical switch on the PCB assembly. Also be aware that the battery is mounted to the back of the case, and wired to the PCB assembly, so don't yank the board away from the case. The battery is attached with a JST connector, and can be unplugged. Now the two sections are free!<<04-PCBoutAndBattery>>>The battery is covered by a thick protective insulation plastic -- doubtless to protect against punctures from the bottom of the PCB. I attempted to remove it, but it was quite well stuck on, and what I did remove did not reveal any markings. Incidentally, applying gentle hot air helps cause the pressure-sensitive acrylic adhesive to give way more easily. So maybe a hair dryer will help.The battery in turn is stuck to the back case. Since this unit is new, and I actually want to get some service out of it, I stopped disassembly at this point. I measured the cell as best as I could in situ and found it to be approximately:91.5 mm x 59.5 mm x 5.5 mmIt has integrated protection circuitry. It is two wire, so no thermistor.You can find these sorts of cells on the open market. Different manufacturers have different stock sizes. Look for 'Lithium prismatic cell'. You will want one with 'integrated protection' and 'JST termination'. Also be mindful of the polarity because sometimes I've seen some with the wired reversed from what I want.E.g. search "Epectec lithium prismatic cells list of cells"I could not find an exact match in that list, but you'll want one of the approximate capacity of 4000 mAh. The case has an opening of 100 mm x 60 mm, so you have some leeway on shape, but I would not exceed the thickness of the existing cell, which is 5.5 mm. These cells expand a bit over their lifetime, and getting punctured by the bottom of the PCB would be disastrous. Like potentially a quite dramatic fire kind of disastrous.While I had the unit on the table, I checked out some things. I notices some solder splashes, and found one solder ball! Yikes! Glad I got that out of there. (I can't show a picture because the phone cam won't get that close up.)The main components are:* U1 - the power management chip is a TP5000* U2 - 3.3 V LDO is a XC6206P332MR* U3 - unmarked; likely SN32F268F* U4 - Bluetooth module BT3GMD-B47P (CYW20730-based)The power chip is indeed a fairly straightforward battery charger. It just has a 'charging' and 'charge complete' indicator. There is no discernible 'fuel gauge' capability on-board. So this is probably why the 'battery level' is in 'beta' and just shows and estimate of the two levels: 30% and 70%. Perhaps an A/D line on one of the MPUs.U3 had no visible markings. Based on buzzing out the pins for power ground, keyboard, and the debug port, it seems likely this is the Sonix SN32F268F. I do not know this for a fact, but I think it is likely. It's a modest processor, with 32 KiB Flash and 2 KiB RAM. Cortex M0. But hey this is a keyboard -- how much compute does it need?<<06-MCUandDebugPort>>U4 is the radio. It is interesting to note that the antenna is situated below the space bar on the right side. It's also just under the (un-grounded) metal keyboard plate, so this location might be problematic with range and connection stability. I would think it better to be placed at the top of the unit, or maybe even in the top right. However the problem is that the PCB is largely taken up with the key leads. So the only place for the radio module (and MPU) is in the clear area under the (long) spacebar.<<05-RadioAndDebugPort>>The radio module uses a Cortex M3 and has 64 KiB (external) Flash and 20 KiB RAM. So it's somewhat amusing that it is more powerful than the main MPU that drives the keyboard.There are a couple debug ports shown in the pictures near the MPU and the Radio module.P1 connects to the keyboard MPU U3 and provides SWD. Its pinout is:1 - Gnd2 - SWCK3 - SWDIO4 - Vdd (MPU)P2 connects to the radio U4. Its pinout is:1 - Vdd (Radio)2 - Rx3 - Gnd4 - TxThere is a set of two pins that, if shorted during power up, will put the keyboard MPU in DFU mode. These pins are not really user accessible, though. (It is my understanding that the K-10 pro has them wired to a SMD button accessible under the space key. But not so here.) It's pins are:1 - Gnd2 - BOOTIt's interesting that the two modules' Vdd are not connected together, so I presume that perhaps the main MPU turns off power to the radio during sleep.I didn't buzz out the key matrix too extensively, but I did do it enough to establish that the 6 keyboard rows (just as viewed in the layout) are on P2.3 - P2.8, and that the columns are connected to various P0 and P3 pins.I didn't investigate the key LEDs because they are on the other side of the board, and I would have to desolder /all/ the keys to gain access. Sorry. But there are 104 key lights and 4 indicators, so there probably is some sort of addressing scheme.I don't see a crystal for the keyboard MPU, so I am going to assume it is using the 48 MHz internal RC oscillator. This surprises me somewhat because USB typically requires a crystal. The datasheet says it is factory trimmed to 0.2% accuracy, so maybe that is good enough. The USB is 2.0 FS device.Re-assemblyThis is easier, wioth caveats:* Do not forget to connect the battery. Lol.* place your switches in the 'cable' and 'mac' position. Align the slides on the case for such. first insert the left side of the keyboard into the case, and then before proceding, verify the slides have properly engaged the switches in all the positions. Fix this if not.* after you have aligned the switches, it is useful to power on (i.e. bluetooth) to verify the keyboard is working correctly. Then you can turn it back off, and finish snapping the PCB into the case.If you have scratched the metal plate, now would be a good time to sharpie over such, if you care. (they will hardly be visible after keycaps are installed, but we take pride in our craft.* DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE INDICATOR LED LIGHT PIPES BACK ON NOW! You'll be sad if you forget before snapping on the bezel.* DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE HIDDEN SCREW ON NOW! You'll be sad if you forgot before snapping on the bezel.* Maybe one last verification of functioning before committing. Power on, see lights flash, caps, numlock, mac, win. You don't have to connect to a computer for this.* Snap the bezel back on. Start from the top right, which has the 'reversed' tabs.* Screw in the remaining 20 screws. Make sure the threads are aligned and do not get aggressive with tightening lest you strip them. DO NOT DROP YOUR SCREW INTO THE SPACEBAR HOLE!* Restore the key caps.Tada! So now I am writing the rest of this review on the actual keyboard.The keyboard is clearly not intended to be disassembled in this way on a routine basis, but you might have to one day, some years out, in order to replace the battery.Anyway, I am looking forward to years of service with this unit. And hopefully the 'indicators not restored on wake' bug gets fixed.

Very nice feel. Good feedback. The brown switches don't click, but the keycaps make plenty of noise when they bottom-out. So don't expect this to be a quiet keyboard just because it's using brown switches. It doesn't come with a wrist rest. I highly recommend adding one. Keychron make some nice looking wood rests that are sized for each keyboard. That's what I ended up going with and it's very nice. They keyboard works well when wired and when operating with a BT connection. It has a fairly aggressive power saver feature that powers down the BT after a minute or so of inactivity. It takes a few seconds to re-establish a connection. The first couple times it caught me off guard and I had to pause a few seconds and retype the words it missed. But the quality is solid. I'd definitely recommend the K10 if you're looking for a mechanical keyboard.