HiLetgoBME280 3.3V Atmospheric Pressure Sensor GY-BME280-3.3 Temperature Humidity Sensor Module for Arduino

The boards worked well. I used four pins: the I2C and power/ground. I connected it to an Ideaspark LCD board and set up a display to test it. The humidity seemed to be high right after I soldered the pins but that settled down the next day. It was easy to use and a great way to get started with the Ideaspark Arduino board.

Worked right off the bat. I'll used these board for my future projects

This thing is tiny! I am playing around with an ASP 8266, this sensor and a .96 inch OLED screen to display the temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure. So far so good, it seems to be much more accurate than my DHT1.

On my sample the pressure reading is the most accurate, being about .11 inches Hg too low. The temperature sensor runs about 3(F) degrees too high, and the humidity reading is about 7% too low. As a comparison, the DHT11 that I tested was more accurate in both temperature and humidity. This seems to be a common issue for these sensors and I used calibration values in my sketch to compensate. This product uses I2C address 0x76 and NOT 0x77 (the default Adafruit Arduino value). This can be overcome by changing the if (! bme.begin()) statement in your sketch to if (! bme.begin(0x76))

This is a no brainer. Couple this with an ESP32, and you have everything you need to monitor the environment inside a covered RV over the winter.Since I upgraded to a larger trailer this summer, I was no longer able to winter it in my shop (too tall). So I did what most people do and put a cover over it, but was concerned about the temp/humidity inside over the long winter. Now I have continuous readings of temp/humidity/dew point, so my home automation server will fire up the small heater when conditions warrant.Cheaper than building a new shop!!

This seems to be a good working sensor. I needed one for a project. The real one will be manufactured with the BME on the board. But I need to test to see if there are any conflicts wiring all the parts together. Modules like this are perfect for that. I don't have to build the whole thing, I can just plug in this module, that already has whatever resistors, capacitors, and diodes are required.The labeling is troublesome. It requires a bit too much deductive reasoning for SPI mode. Here's what the labels are. The left column is the BME280 label. The right is what it should go to.VCC = 3.3vGND = GNDSCL = CLK/SCKSDA = MOSI/SDI/DINCSB = CSSDO = MISO/SDO/DOUTIn the screenshot, I have it running in the Arduino IDE with Adafruit Library's example "BME280test". I'm using SPI mode, because my project requires it.I soldered the header on upside down, so the labels would be up. I figured this would be a pain, so I didn't want to have to flip it while figuring out the pin assignments. Normally, you'd want the chip with as much exposure to the environment as possible. It would have been nice if they had just labeled the top side, but what's done is done.Once you get it wired right, it works perfectly with the example code.I don't have long-term experience with this module yet, but it will be running constantly while developing the rest of the project. If it dies prematurely, I'll come back and lower the score.

Worked well until it failed, which took 3 months! Grr...

Using circuit Python and Adafruit Library Adafruit_bme280 and as noted you need to change the default address of 0x77 to 0x76 to get this to work with no pull-ups added. Example below.SDA = board.GP8SCL = board.GP9i2c = busio.I2C(SCL, SDA)# This is were you can change the I2C addressbme280 = adafruit_bme280.Adafruit_BME280_I2C(i2c, 0x76)After this all works perfectly.