Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam Piece for Ford F-Series E-Series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle(8 Ends for 4 Cables)

***EDIT*** I can't upload the pics mentioned in the review. Sorry...***EDIT #2***- FINALLY got the images to upload, hope they help!Purchased these for a Ford F250. Both rear doors stopped working, about a week apart. Struggled at first and almost gave up as I couldn't get the pieces to slide far enough onto the sheath. The cable was always too short to work. Then I realized what needed to be done to get them to work perfectly. There are no instructions included, but there's many videos on youtube on how to do this repair, full explanation start to finish. I recommend watching some of these videos before you start to get an idea of what is involved.Here's what helped me, I bet it will make the job easy for you.-FIRST- understand that each door requires 4 pieces. There are 2 latches on each door, top and bottom. They both attach with a cable to the handle mechanism- which means there are 2 cables. Each end of the cable needs a stop to work properly. SO- each cable needs 2 pieces, and each door has 2 cables which means 4 pieces per door.-SECOND- the top latch of each door requires the odd shaped piece. This is the one that is not completely rounded on the end. Because the way the latch is made, you have to slide it in and then turn to get it to stay in place. I also wrapped some electrical tape to hold the metal piece to the latch to avoid it twisting and falling out.-THIRD- ***this is CRUCIAL*** When you remove the old rubber stops from the cables, you will notice there are ridges from where they were glued/sealed on the sheathing (see red circle area in the pic). YOU NEED TO SAND THESE DOWN- otherwise the metal pieces will not be able to slide far enough, and the cable will end up too short. I used 80 grit paper and it took some effort, but it did smooth out nicely without damaging the cable sheath. Sand it down until nothing sticks out, and even a little more than that will help. ALSO- use a small amount of lubricant on the sheath, and the piece will slide easier. It will still take some effort, but it will go on.-FOURTH- Slide the metal piece until the end of the sheath (blue circle area) fits against the indention on the metal piece (green circle area). This ensures enough length of cable to attach after you have placed the metal pieces into the latches and the door mechanism. If you don't, the cable will be too tight and not work.When you slide the metal piece onto the sheath, it's easier if you fit the cable thru the slit on the narrow end of the piece, and then slide the piece onto the sheath. Don't try to get the cable all the way in the slit before you slide it on.Can't say enough good things about this product. Was ready to give up at first, and then figured out that sanding the sheath and a little grease made it all possible. Good luck!

These seem to work just as well as any others out there but at a fraction of the price, having used these and more expensive ones. The only issue which I've found with these and others, is half the time you have to modify them to work. The set I received I had to file open the slot on the two cam ends as I couldn't get them to fit over the cables. I also had to drill a hole in all of them to get the cable to be able to move freely, otherwise the slot was too narrow and the cables would hang up. Then you get to the fun part if you are replacing the ends at the bottom of the door. The OD of the collet is too big, and without a lathe or hours of using a tiny file, you may not be able to get them into the lock actuator. Thankfully I had an extra long welding clamp that I could use to get in there to clamp between the collet and the door skin(behind the door panel) to be able to get it into place, as there is not enough room for normal pliers in there.

I asked my mechanic how much it would be to fix my stuck door (2005 F-150 extended cab). Without missing a beat he said the part along was around $275. That was too much. After doing a little internet searching I found a cheaper solution to my problem. There's a YouTube video that I watched that made this repair fairly simple. I was able to repair the cables with these metal pieces. It took me nearly 5 hours from start to finish -- there were multiple breaks and 2 trips to the hardware store for tools. I think I could fix the other door in under an hour if it breaks. Well worth the money!!! My repair cost me $8 for these end pieces ($4/door) and $13 in tools. Great return on my investment!One word of caution, you will likely need to make the gaps bigger to be able to slide them over the sheathing. Also wear a good pair of mechanics gloves. Using my screwdriver to pry open the gaps more I caused some burrs. You might cut your hands without gloves when you work the new pieces into place. Otherwise, watch a video, or two, and give it a shot. It's a pretty easy repair.

This is my second go at repairing my Ford F-150 rear door opener pulls. After a few years, the plastic clips on the ends of the cable guides deteriorate and shatter. You can't get the back doors open after that happens.These clips go over the cable and are inserted in the latch hardware and should outlast the life of the truck once properly installed.My only real issue with these clips was the width of the groove where the cable connects. The cable goes into the groove and the cable attachment end is locked into place so the cable slides up and down. A set used on a previous repair job had a wider groove, and the cable slipped in easily. For this set, iFJF, I had to drill out the center of the clip and pry open the slot to get the cable into the groove. It was a minor issue, and I've read of others having to do the same thing. In the end, it is an elegant fix for a poor Ford design. Once you get into the door and remove the latch assemblies, repair is a snap.

Fixed the doors with ease. The ends with the smaller oval shaped tips go to the top latch. All the others that are round like a circle are used on the bottom latch and the door handle. Remember to remove the door handle and slide the retainer clips back insert the cable end into the door handle, replace retainer clips reinstall door handles use 3/16” rivets. Instructional videos found on YouTube. Update 2021: been a year since I installed this ends, doors latches open as designed. In fact, the driver's side back door opened better after the fix, the latch seemed to stick from the factory.

Once you understand how they work, there is no modifying required . Normally it’s the end controlling the upper release . So pinch the plastic end together to push thru the cable end . Cut off the outer sheathing. Install new piece. Then use tape to wrap around the hold the new end in place or crimp on with pliers. Then feed thru. I used a wire tie to make sure the alu doesn’t slip out, then spray lubed the latches .