Dorman CC649041 Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Assembly Compatible with Select Jeep Models

This is for my 2002 Wrangler Sahara.The current master cylinder had blown a seal and was leaking into the floorboard. Not a ton, just enough to keep the clutch mushy and close to the floor to activate. I received the Dorman unit this morning and it took maybe 30-45 minutes to swap-out from beginning to clean-up. The old unit was plastic and this one is metal and just has a more quality feel to it. It fit perfectly as though it was the factory original on the assembly line.Now my pedal is back up where it should be and shifting like it’s new again. The fact this unit is pre-filled and pre-bled made it worth every penny.I should have done it sooner—just a good quality product and perfect fitment.

I really like the fact the system was pre bledAll I had to do was bolt in onWorks great.

Easy to install and worked well for 2-1/2 years of minimal driving. I would not recommend it.

Nice piece. Perfect fit on granddaughter's 2002 Wrangler SE.1. 4 nuts to remove. 2 on the inside of the firewall. Up high, not as hard as they look. 14mm deep well on a 1/4" folding ratchet works well. 2 holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing. 1/2" deep well hex works well. Typical Jeep, SAE and Metric mixed back and forth.2. Don't cut the white tie wraps on the new unit, leave them intact, install, 1st pump of the clutch pedal will break them.3. Be mindful to route the new line next to the firewall, behind all the other lines, you want to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible. The line is pre-bent, work it around until it's right, don't force into an unnatural bend.4. Secure the line, you don't want it bouncing up against the exhaust. There are 2 factory clips, one to the firewall, a larger one on the bell housing.5. This kit is complete except for the safety switch, pay attention when you take it off and reassemble the same way.6. The rod end of the actuator arm is plastic in this kit, the factory one is metal from start to finish. Not a big deal as the metal one is so soft it wallows out in as little as 50K miles. It arrives with a new black plastic bushing inserted. Bit of a stretch but generously lube the metal pin on the clutch arm before you install the new actuator arm. Dupont's spray teflon, anything synthetic. No petroleum based lubes including WD40 which is almost pure kerosene.7. Take note of the black plastic bushing. The dogs are double sided. Make sure both click in place. The outer set holds the actuator arm to the clutch pedal arm. The inner set of dogs clip into a recessed "ring" on the pin welded to the clutch arm. This ring is identical to the ring on the brake pedal. However the brake pedal arm uses a more traditional and longer lasting metal clip. When I install one of these clutch actuators, I always safety wire them with either a wire or a tie wrap. You can use the hole in the clutch arm. This keeps the actuator from falling off if the black plastic bushing fails, which many of them do. The clutch will be sloppy but at least it will get you home. Some guys trim the bushing back and install a clip like that found on the brake side, others fit a "C" clip, try 7/16th. As of this date, I have been unable to find a metal bushing that fits the pin (inner diameter of the bushing) and sufficiently thin wall (outer diameter of the bushing) that I can enlarge the hole in the actuator, thereby replacing the black plastic bushing with a metal one and securing it with a brake or c clip. Alternatively, I'd be interested in finding a male heim joint (rod end) that I can tap, then thread the factory metal actuator and screw it into the heim.

Edit 2+ years later: This replacement has worked well for me AFTER I flushed it several times with good-quality DOT3 brake fluid. All the "creaking" went away. My guess is that the fluid in it from the factory is very poor quality.Replaced the failing system in my 98 TJ with this. Very disappointed - the new setup "creaks" as I push the clutch pedal in and out. I can hear it as well as feel it in the pedal - the creak causes a jerky, annoying clutch operation.The creak is definitely not from the pedal assembly bushings; I disassembled and lubricated them. Also definitely not from the bellhousing as I just replaced the clutch and lubricated the throwout bearing collar and the fork pivot cups. I pulled the new master cylinder, pushed the rod in manually, and heard/felt the creaking from the cylinder itself. Maybe faulty O rings. I flushed the system with DOT-3 fluid and the creak has diminished but is not completely gone. I wonder if they used cheap fluid from the factory that permanently damaged the o-rings.It does technically operate the clutch though, so 2 stars.

👍 2001 TJ

Came pre bleed, works great easy to install!

This part came quickly and was a perfect fit for my 2001 TJ 4.0 5 speed. Installation was not exactly like the YouTube videos but close enough. My rough shifting has disappeared. I am impressed with the metal construction and overall quality of the part. Highly recommend.

I am totally impressed with this Dorman clutch master n slave cylinder it's what you come to love about Dorman great quality always!! Barry

Worth the wait for this low price.

Works as expected

So Far All Good;; Road test Soon;

Was what was expected