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The Leviton 1201-LHW is a robust 15 Amp, 120 Volt toggle switch designed for industrial applications. Featuring a lighted handle and pilot light for enhanced visibility, this switch is built with a fully enclosed mechanism for durability and safety. Its self-grounding capability and options for different voltages make it a versatile choice for any professional setting.
H**Y
Not As Bright As the One It Replaced
One of the illuminated switches in our bedroom no longer illuminated. So we purchased this Leviton 1201-LHI. This should be heavy duty and better than the 24-year-old Leviton 5501-LHI it is replacing. But it's not near as bright and the illumination is not uniform throughout the switch like on the old 5501-LHI. Since I've already installed this one, I will not send it back. But I did find and order another 5501-LHI.
C**C
Generally less good than spec. grade switch and 3x the price
I was fascinated by this super-extra-heavy-duty-grade in-wall switch (Leviton 1201-LHc), decided to try a couple in my home to see if they could be worth 3x the price of Leviton’s “regular” spec.-grade switches (Leviton 5501-LHc, which are already plenty expensive). But, if you’re just looking for a really good, general purpose switch, the answer turns out to be no, these extra-super-duper 1201s are not better than the 5501s, in fact they’re actually worse - not even considering the 3x price.For a pair of easy examples of how these 1201s are actually worse: These are supposed to be quiet switches, which normally also means very low force required to toggle the switch. But these require noticeable force/effort, you can’t just brush them open with the tip of a finger; and they’re not really quiet either, they’re a bit noisy, they clack and thunk as they switch. You might find all this reassuring that they’re super-heavy-duty - but I just find it noisy and a bit difficult.And there are a number of other areas where these switches, in being beefed-up to super-industrial grade, have at the same time been “beefed down,” made less functional, for general use.To be fair, these extra-super-duper switches claim to have some very specific advantages that might appeal to your specific situation. For example, they seem to claim to provide some kind of added electrical spark suppression in the operation of the internal switch contacts; that might result in a switch that is less likely to fail or flake due to scorching of the contacts if you’re frequently switching heavy motors or similar loads; and less likely to ignite fumes and spark a fire if you’re operating in a space with lots of ignitable fumes, e.g. natural gas or propane.Or maybe you’re looking for switches for experiments with your gorillas in your zoo, to see if they can be trained to operate the switches to obtain lighting or food, maybe these switches would stand up better to that kind of brute use. Although I’m just speculating on this point, I haven’t yet tried getting the gorillas in my zoo to operate the light switches.So if you’re looking for one of the very specific added benefits provided by these 3x more expensive 1201 switches, in those relatively few cases they might be worth it, for that I’d rate ‘em 4 stars. For everybody else, without those peculiar requirements, I’d rate these switches 1 star, definitely not worth it, generally not even as good as the 3x less expensive 5501 regular spec. grade switches. Overall, I’ll rate these 1201s at 2 stars, good for a few folks with very specific, unusual requirements, but a really bad deal for everybody else.(If the product listing for this switch properly described that it’s not really good for general use, only good if you really need its particular super-heavy-duty features, then I would have rated it according to that standard and given it possibly even 4 or 5 stars. But since the product listing strongly - but wrongly - suggests that it’s wonderful for general use, I rated it accordingly, thus much lower, as above.)
D**B
Works great
I buy everything I review. To receive FIVE stars, a product must meet >90% of the manufacturer's claims. I don’t subtract because I don’ t like the color or appearance (too subjective and personal). I review form, function, ease of use, and construction quality. Please forgive typos: I’m an evidence-based scientist, NOT a typist. If you find my review helpful, please click "YES". This helps me improve future evaluations (which I do for free to help people make more informed decisions).Their Claim: Replaces single-pole switch and the whole toggle lights up orange in the OFF positionMy Verdict (details below): TrueThis is for a light controlled by just one switch. More than one? YOu need a 3-way switch.To install:1. Turn power OFF at the breaker box. Repeat and read that again; OFF!!2. Remove wall plate by the two screws3. Remove switch by undoing the top and bottom screws. Pull it out from the wall so you have room to work.4. Remove the two wires (and the copper GROUND wire, attached to the screw on the lower left in the picture). Toss out the removed and presumably damaged switch.5. Put this one in (making sure you sees the word ON when it is in the UP position). Attach either of the two insulated wires to one gold-colored screw, the other to the other gold screw. It doesn't matter which goes to which. Not one bit. They're interchangeable.6. Attach the copper (uninsulated) grounding wire to the green screw on the lower left of the photo.7. Push into wall and attach to junction box with the top and bottom screws (seen in the photo)8. Attach wall plate with the two screws (hopefully you didn't lose them when removing the plate in step (1).)9. Turn the breaker switch back ON.When installed properly, this glows ORANGE when off so you can find it at night without mucking up the wall. Mine works exactly as described, and I think yours should to. If unsure, go to YouTube and search "Installing single pole light switch" for more detailed instructions. This is, other than changing a lightbulb, the EASIEST HOME ELECTRICAL REPAIR you can do. As long as the breaker is off, you can NOT get hurt. Just be SURE it's off by ensuring the light doesn't go on when you flip the switch. That's the final check before working on an outlet. Voila, you just saved $125 for an electrician. YouTube can help you with about 100 videos on this EXACT topic. Trust me, it's so simply you can't believe it.REMEMBER; ALWAYS TURN OFF THE BREAKER. 110V CAN KILL YOU. IT REALLY CAN.
J**S
Not Quiet At All
It's supposed to be a QUIET switch. That's why I bought it. So it doesn't disturb other people in the house late at night. It sounds like someone snapping their fingers when you flip the switch.
M**T
Switch was not quiet and did not light, waste of $13.00.
I should have suspected there was a problem with this switch when I opened the box, the ears on the switch were missing and the instruction sheet was torn in two inside the box. The switch seemed to be intact otherwise, so I installed it to replace the old lighed switch which had worked fine for years before the toggle had begun to flicker recently. The new switch does not light, turns the light on and off but the old switch did the same thing. Used to be these switches were reliable and made in the US, not anymore. Cannot recommend.
K**R
Good, Quality Product
This is a good product. I recommend it to anybody who appreciates quality and performance.
O**E
works good
this worked great could not buy one locally glad I could get one here. very easy to install. switch has tabs so st slip wires under tabs and tighten screws. only wire to be wrapped around screw is the ground.
C**Z
Two Stars
Another so-called QUIET switch thats LOUDER THAN HELL!
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