Creality 3D Printer Ender 5 Plus FDM Printer with Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit, Dual Z-Axis Touch Screen and Glass Bed Large Printing Size 350x350x400mm

Took a little bit to get it level, but once I did, I started printing BIG stuff. I’ve had an Ender 3 for 3 years, so I didn’t have to learn anything new. The biggest downside is it still has the old style main board, so the stepper motors are really noisy. I ordered a silent board for it.

Let me start by saying that I have been using an original acrylic framed anet A8 that I bought in 2018. Coming from that, the Ender 5 Plus is amazing. The print area is huge and it was very easy to assemble. It comes mostly assembled and has a lot of QoL stuff I didn't have before, such as the BL Touch, filament runout sensor, touchscreen, and print resume on power loss. I put it together in about 30 minutes. Took about 5 to 10 minutes for the autolevel to run. After that it has just been printing nicely with no problems. Also I used the included 200g spool of white to print the letter holder pictured and there were no snags in the roll, it took 183g and 12 hours to print. Overall I am extremely satisfied with this printer.

I have had this for a few weeks now and I have had nothing but problems with it. I have tried everything and I only got one print to work. I’m so disappointed in this

Straight out of the box, its limited in capabilities but with some small modifications and improvements its a solid printer

I like that they have adapted it so that you do not need to replace the whole cable. I never did anyway, I always cut the thermistor ends off and just soldered on a new one. This comes with a wire special connector, so you do not have to solder it if you do not wish to. Quality is better than the 'off-brand' ones I had been buying, too.

If you do not need the 350mm print size spend more get better. If you do go with this printer a magic eight ball is a better then tech support. Here are some setup items you need to know.You cannot run this printer well without a sonic pad. The BL touch auto level is not even close to correct.To upload the firm ware you need a 8gb micro sd card formatted with 4kB packets. This has to be done on a windows machine. Standard cards are 32kB packets. Do the update before any assembly. Open the bottom of the controller. Disconnect power. Insert the micro SD card with the latest firmware from Creality. Connect power. Leave the bottom off. Power up. Stand there and make sure you see the file upload followed by a bunch of screens. No screens. Power down and power up again.Remove card and insert into the slot on the side. Power up and see if the main mother board updates. If stuck on the creality screen or a single line of Chinese text, power cycle and try again. If after 6 tries it does not work you need to plug the controller into your computer using hexuploader, set the baud rate to 115200, and upload the .hex file using hex uploader.If you cannot get the firmware to update pack it up and send it back.Sonic pad updates have to be done with the sonic pad plugged into the router. Not wireless. Creality does not support the sonic pad silent mother board combination. Give the Sonic pad a static ip address by setting it to fixed in your router.Do not using the springs for the bed. Order silicon ones and the better blue turning wheels.Do not use the filament feed system. Order the upgrade and a steel gear instead of the brass.Disconnect the motor wires when your are manually adjusting the z x y axis.Put the glass on and use small binder clips about 1.5” from each corner on the same axis as the controller.The z screws need to be manually adjusted using a .5mm ruler to ensure that the bed is the same height from the top. You can use the motors and controller to get you close to the top but the motors have to be disconnected to screw on side or the other.With the Z adjusted, move x y axis bar to both ends and measure at each of the 4 corners. Do not crank the silicon springs down tight as this will cause the bed to bend on the corners. Leave some play. Get the measurements and close as possible. Then use the sonic pad to level the bed. The bed leveling is a compromise. You want the corners to be around minus .05mm and the to be positive .01 or .02mm. A minus number means loosen the blue adjustment wheels. Adjusting one cornet will throw the others off. There is a lot of back and forth. At the beginning if one side is much more negative, disengage the z motors, hold on screw still and adjust the other by hand.Once leveled make a 300mm by 20mm by 2mm high calibration print. You will most likely come up short. Divide the 300 by the result and this is your adjustment factor. With the printer and sonic pad on you can go to your web browser, enter the ip address, and access the config file using the {..} button in the browser. Double click on the file, scroll down and apply the multiplier to the e z x and y rotation. For example should be 300 but is 298.8m or 1.004. Divide the x y z by the 1.004 and enter the number. Then save. If longer do the opposite. Power cycle and reprint. You will also need a 20mm by 250mm tower to check the z.You can also use the 300mm calibration file to fine tune the head height until you are squishing the material but do not have or have tiny ripples.

Product works, just a bit short, maybe 2cm.

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Funciona muy bien, y se instqla bastante facil