ElecGearHall Sensor Joystick Replacement for Steam Deck, Electromagnetic No-Drifting Left and Right Thumbstick Unit Module PCB Assembly for MEDA and MHDA Controllers, Repair Tool Kit Included

We purchased these under recommendation from a user in a Discord server. The joysticks arrived quickly and were super easy to install. They worked perfectly out of the box, and once they were calibrated they blew us away. They're far more precise than the OEM joysticks and much higher quality than the GuliKit ones (which had too loose tolerances and didn't even have full range of motion!) Would definitely recommend buying these to replace your drifting OEM sticks, or just to upgrade your input system!

Installation was pretty easy and they seemed to work well at first but I noticed R3 on the right stick didn't work at all. Reflowing the solder joints seems to have fixed it for now.Update:Less than a month later and these are absolute garbage. I've discovered that clicking the sticks while tilted changes the calibration and makes it unusable until you reboot your Steam Deck. I haven't tested if both sticks do this or just my left one is a dud but I highly recommend avoiding these.

Extremely smooth response, great recentering, movement and precision accuracy meets or exceeds the original stock sticks due to the exact same range and voltage equalization used and expected by the Deck's firmware. The hardest part of assembling the module is removing the wire from the hot glue on the original stock PCB, which takes a 400C soldering iron. The actual contact pad is silver at the bottom, so you just need to heat up the glue until it eventually melts and 'peels' off the PCB. Any burning residue is not the PCB--it's the glue--just clean your tip constantly with brass.Soldering the wire on the new PCB is easy--just apply flux to the rectangle contact point AND to the wire ends also, apply solder to the tip of the iron and then apply the wire to the contact area on the flux, touch the wire with the soldering tip applying pressure, and the solder will flow and fuse the wire to the contact area.

- very basic soldering needed (easy)- calibration needed (easy)- barely need to take apart the deck (easy)You'll obviously need to take apart your steam deck (remove your microsd card first!) so please watch a YouTube video or two before doing it and make sure you're using the correct screwdriver bit so you don't strip your screws!! Use a PH1 size!!Yes there is minor soldering involved so be aware/prepared for that. I have janky soldering skills and still managed to do this so don't be intimidated by that!Instructions can get you by, but do some research too on how to set these up/calibrate them, its super easy.Once they're set up, they are so much smoother than stock! These use a circle gate rather than square like the other brands which is better. Highly recommend!!

I received these sticks as a replacement to a set of Gulikit Hall Effect Steam Deck thumbsticks. The sticks themselves are great to use. No surprises in the way they work, capacitive touch works well once soldered. You can select between two stick types so you don't have to guess about buying an A or B profile replacement. The gate and deflection range is circulate across both sticks. My outer range is maybe on percent off on max deflection on the left stick but still well within the usable area.The only downside, and I feel this is worth a removed star is that the instructions are very, very minimal. The entire set of instructions is a folding slip of paper with a few steps on how to replace the parts. It doesn't go into any details on where the solder points are. I am comfortable with electronics repair so the limited instructions weren't a issue, but if you were newer they could be a real frustration and pain point.Overall these are good hall effect sticks hurt by limited instructions with no ability to get more information about this particular stick online as there is no web tutorials by this manufacturer.Edit after a few weeks of having them: The left stick was only registering 90 percent input at full deflection even after repeated calibrations. Having tested analog, guilikit and this I can say this is still the most impressive but it seems like quality is a bit lacking.Second edit: the first set of sticks had the left one fail. I purchased a second set has an issue with the left stick outer dead zone shrinking from 100 percent to 90 after an hour of use and going lower over time. I've calibrated and reseated the cables to no effect. I like the idea of these sticks but the quality control is terrible it seems.

These are a lot better than the Gulikit ones especially since they have a better circularity. They are very responsive and not to hard to solder the thumb caps onto them. I would definitely recommend these over the gulikit ones to anyone who wants to upgrade or has stick drift on there steam deck.

The media could not be loaded.  The video above demonstrates that the button is stuck.UPDATE: The replacement I received has the same issue as the first. Clicking the left analog requires a ridiculous amount of pressure to actuate. I've tried to break it in but the issue doesn't improve. Perhaps they have a bad batch, but I've resorted to using a Gulikit left stick and the elecgear right stick. Gulikits are great but suffer from square deadzones, so I switched to these elecgears for their circular deadzones like the oem sticks, with the added stick drift benefits.

As title says, these beat the GuliKit sticks in every way. From stick smoothness to deflection range accuracy to click pressure. The only thing the GuliKits have over these is their stick centering is a little more aggressive, and as such the deadzone slightly smaller; but in either case, both of their deadzones is smaller than the smallest deadzone value in Steam Input (2000), so this ends up being a non-issue, making the ElecGear sticks truly effectively better in every way. You have to solder yes, but it is super easy and can be done in a few minutes even by an amateur. Do note you will have to raise the temperature over solder melting point to melt the glue (300–350C is what I used) so that you can detach the wire on the original sticks. Be careful not to burn the board!