VHTFlameproof Coating Very High Heat Clear (Satin Finish)

Great paint can, I loved the results

Excellent product and results!

so far so good. had to cure it to get the coats so that a scrape would not peel it off. cured to the 400 degree temp, 600 degrees is the final cure temp... the 30min cure time, the Misses was not going to allow it. the VHT ACTUALLY SANDED AND BUFFED to a glass gloss finish. when dry its scent less, not so when shooting it. This product is worth the time and money spent utilizing it.

Want to disappear your ugly muffler?Here are 'before' and 'after' images.

Got the paint, rattle the ratsh-t out of it for over the span of 2 days without a mixing ball.Said to heck with it since I'd like to wrap up my project and only need the paint and primer to function as a sealant of sorts.I used Rustoleum 2000F Primer and cured once at 250F, once at 400F and twice at 450F (my oven doesnt go up to the recommended 600F)The primers finish came out great, I received this can of VHT and after deciding to just "send it" despite the lack of mixing ball, off I went.I made sure to shake up the paint as good as I possibly can to give it (and myself) the best shot. I was expecting dribbly nozzle action. The can worked as normal, the spray pattern and atomization seemed unaffected (keep in mind I shook the hell out of it for at least 3 collective hours).I cured this the exact same as I cured the primer. The finish was pretty good except for a few spots where I may have oversprayed a little bit, only very slight miniscule bubbles on one or two areas. I let it cure again at 450F which seemed to harden up those bubbles a little more so I figured it was fairly well cured.Lots of off-gassing smoking when curing, do not do this indoors. I expect more smoke when the car is started.Other than missing a mixing ball, which the rustoleum primer definitely had, I guess the product speaks for itself.This part is completely hidden in the engine bay, this was just to help the 40 year old iron with heat dissipation and to possibly prevent a surface crack from spreading. The paint was used for it's utility and not aesthetics so I suppose it's not a bad deal.Shipping was awful, but again a fault on my part since I didn't bother to check local stores. Almost a week coast to coast.

Color is FLAT black- if you rub it with some microfiber it will barely shine.wanted the chrome pieces black on my bike.These were polished chrome . I used the strongest stuff I could think of to degrease.First step , paint thinnerStep 2 - sand with 400 gritStep 3 - rub with 91% isopropylStep 4 - good rub down wit Brake CleanerStep 5 - wear gloves from now on- the grease on your greasy paws will ruin steps 1-4Step 6 - paint per directionsStep 7 - and this one is KEY- bake per directions.I used the grill with some foil over the burners.

Used it on some headers, the paint didn't flake or change colors, came out great. I didn't use the clear coat as some people reported it turning yellow.The procedures I followed: (not exactly what the bottle said)I applied the VHT primer as it directed, except I used 4-5 light coats (instead of 2 lights and a thick). I waited the recommended times between coats and the time recommended before spray painting.I also applied the paint in 5 light coats instead of 2 lights and 1 thick.The bottle isn't clear as to what window you have before curing it, but from my research its fine if you prime + paint, and let sit for a few days before you begin curing (needed if curing on vehicle so that paint isn't too soft). What I did was prime and paint all on the same day, let cure for that remainder of the day and half of the next day in direct sun (so it got about 12 hours of direct sun in the high 80s ambient temp).I didn't have a good way to cure the headers off of the car so I did it on the car. I would not recommend using a heat gun to cure the parts as it will not pass enough heat through the headers to cure things evenly...perhaps on smaller items it will be great.Installation and curing on vehicle:I wrapped the headers in plastic wrap to prevent scratching, oils, greases, filths from collecting on them. I then installed them, removed the wrapping and began curing by:-Turning engine on for 30 seconds and let sit for 5 minutes (repeated this about 4 times)-Turning engine on for 1 minute, let sit for 5-2 minutes heat, 10 minute sit-I then worked my way up in the time I let the engine run, and the time I let it sit up to the 20 minutes idle and 20 minutes cooling.-I stopped curing once the paint stopped giving off fumesIf you are painting motorcycle exhaust tubes, it might be a good idea to follow the above curing procedures as from what I read, the paint is more prone to lifting/burning off/changing colors on motorcycles if you followed the procedures in the bottle, probably because the exhaust tube temp is brought up more quickly than on a car?UPDATE after 1 year of using: Paint is still holding on my cars headers, and I've just painted some exhaust tips for my motorcycle, followed the oven curing process instructions on the bottle, but did it on the grill. Paint didn't peel or anything.

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