guyker6 String Saddle Headless Guitar Bridge Tailpiece With Worm Involved String Device for Headless Guitar Accessories W2004 Black

At time of writing I've yet to install this unit on a guitar as I'm awaiting parts to complete a build, so this is a "first impressions" review.The pack is supplied with the bridge, four bridge mounting screws, three Allen keys, headstock string clamp with four mounting holes and (oddly) two mounting screws. The photos on Amazon for this "Guyker" variant (at time of purchase) are a little misleading as they suggest the string clamp is a flat-mounted piece, whereas it's the same design as the other available variants - it has an angled end plate with a hole to access a truss rod and two additional screw holes, which means your target neck will need profiling exactly to accept the clamp and align with the truss access. It may also be impossible to achieve both on some necks. You'll certainly need to do some precision woodwork to get a perfect fit.The bridge unit itself is very solidly made, weighty, all the tuners and adjustment points seem to work smoothly enough. There are absolutely zero instructions included with it, but with a few minutes' thought and a quick YouTube search, it all clicked into place. These are the same bridges as used on the EART fixed bridge headless guitars, so that should help you in your search (try "SIX1NINE Guitars" on You Tube).The string tuner wrench is ingeniously held in place on the side by a strong neodymium magnet. Unfortunately, this magnet is mounted underneath the bridge and sits proud from the level of the baseplate by around half a millimetre. That doesn't sound much, but depending on your guitar's finish it will either mean a) the bridge will sit slightly proud at the rear when installed, or b) your finish will end up with an indentation which will be visible if you ever change over to a more conventional bridge. Sanding/grinding this back isn't really an option as the magnet material is very brittle.In the same vein, one of the Allen bolts which anchor the saddles to the baseplate is too long, and protrudes from the bottom of the baseplate by half a mm or so. That's another mark in your top finish.The saddles are bolted to the base plate in a staggered pattern to suggest some sort of assumed compensation, but in practice that means the G-saddle needs removing completely to install one of the mounting screws. I suspect this may also cause some intonation issues so it'll need careful positioning according to your scale length. It would be a good idea to slacken off all the saddles bolts and check their limits of travel before installation, otherwise you could find some strings just won't intonate.The tuning thumb wheels are spaced from the base unit by washers - on my unit, the low E's washer is thinner than the others, so it sits lower. Maybe coincidentally, it's also much stiffer in operation. The thumbwheels also seem as if they'll bite into the side of your hand if you're into palm-muting.The string clamp also has some small burrs at the ends of the string channels which will need careful filing to avoid string breakages.All-in-all, it's a decent design at a good price, which could have been excellent with a little more thought and attention to detail. It won't be for everyone, and it's certainly going to be a frustrating learning curve for the initial setup, but there is nothing else out there in the same price range so it's definitely worth a look if you're prepared to put some time in and have some reasonable woodworking and setup skills.Review will be updated once installed.

Seems to be the same bridge as supplied with the Jamstik Studio. Took a bit of time to ensure that it was mounted correctly. As stated in another review the head piece is not flat and has a slant like all of the others sold on Amazon. Needed some googling to find info on all of the bridge adjustments. Most are obvious apart from the height adjustment. Each one is on a cam with 2 grub screws (Allen key supplied). The left one (looking along the neck) needs to be released then turn the right one to adjust the height. Once correct tighten the left one to hold it in place. Sometimes when lowering I needed to loosen the strings as it got stuck. Took a while but once set then should never need adjusting again. The height from the bottom of the bridge to the string is adjustable at approx 10mm to 13mm which should let you know if need any riser underneath.I had to dismantle some of it to get to the mounting screws.I used this to convert my Hofner Shorty which I hated due to terrible neck dive, into a headless guitar - no more neck dive. I cut my headstock right up against the bridge with minimal gap and I can still use the truss rod adjustment. I also needed a 9mm riser under the bridge to get the height correct. Some info online suggested it needed a 6mm riser - I bought a 3mm plate which I cut in half. This is when I discovered it needed another 3mm to bring up to 9mm total. I used some aluminium rings that I had removed from some old hard disks a while ago. You could probably mount it on some wood if it needs raising. Stays in tune remarkably well and guitar will now fit into a suitcase.