Hoya67 mm Pro ND 16 Filter

Don’t buy this filter it’s totally waste of money the photo will be pixelated and the video will have some kind of cross marks on it I recently used it for a wedding photo shoot and regretted to use it pls don’t waste ur money

Very good filter and its effective in the sunlight. worth the value... You won';t regret

Review of Hoya ProND1000 Neutral density filter:- Hoya ProND1000 is a 10 stop filter. I measure 10.3 stops in the green channel- Hoya ProND1000 is *extremely* color-neutral: A very small red cast is measurable, but not visually obvious (more below).- No discernible Infra-Red leakage / IR pollution.- Typical, decent quality aluminium frame.- Good price for performance.Safety: This is NOT a filter for photographing the sun.==========================================- If you want to photograph the sun, use only a filter designed and certified for photographing the sun.- Solar filters have heavy IR and UV reduction, as well as high attenuation of visible light, to prevent damage to eyes or equipment.- Contact your local astronomy society, or university astronomy department for advice.Colour:======I've attached images of a ColorChecker chart, with:1) Hoya ProND1000 filter2) No filter3) SRB ND1000 filter- These were all taken with a fixed "UniWB" white balance, which gives all images a strong green cast (the point of this weird white balance is to make it easier to check RAW exposure).- The filtered images were taken at 6", f/4. The unfiltered image was taken at 1/200 ", f/4.- The loss of focus in the filtered images is down to my sloppy technique with an extending zoom lens, the short object distance to the colour chart (~0.6m), and the wide-ish aperture (f/4). The lack of sharpness should not be attributed to the filters.The Hoya ProND 1000 is very neutral. Under Halogen lighting, I measure a very small red cast: Red up by 1.5%; Blue down by 0.25% (relative to green). The measured cast varies a little with lighting. If you are worried about this level of color cast, you should also be worrying about the color casts introduced by changing lenses. These shifts were measured on Nikon D7200 using RAW - i.e. linear light - data extracted using RawDigger.In comparison, It's quite clear that the SRB ND1000 has a blue cast. On the Nikon D7200 I used, Blue is up by about +20%, Red is down by about 30%. But the color shifts are fairly even across the different patches, so white balancing, either by setting a custom WB in the camera with the filter attached, or by adjusting the color temperature in RAW processing. The SRB has just a little difficulty with the lime-green patch on the third row, which is (relative to other patches) shifted slightly to yellow.The colour shifts quoted were measured under halogen lighting. I get similar results under high-quality (CRI Ra 98; CQS 95) LED lighting [Philips ExpertColor 4000K].Construction:=============Decent aluminium construction. Brass, with a knurled ring for better grip would be ideal (Like Breakthrough Technology X4 filters).Sharpness & visual artefacts:=============================I have seen images ProND1000 images with halo artefacts perhaps related to reflections between sensor and filter. On Nikon D7200, I haven't been able to reproduce such artefacts: I've tried photographing lights, shining a torch at the filter out of frame.I've also seen reports of sharpness problems with the Hoya. But pixel-peeking with and without the filter shows *I*'m getting very sharp images, with no significant loss of detail, even inspecting images at 200%.I'm not aware of vignetting problems, except with Nikon 10-24 at 10mm at the extreme (<100 pixels) frame corners, which are down ~1/3 EV - seems like filter ring shading.I'm mostly using the Hoya with Nikon D7200 and Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS, at near 50mm and f/5-f/8.Usage:=====- Autofocus may - or may not - be possible with a 10-stop filter fitted to your camera, depending on your camera, and available light. Some experimentation with live-view autofocus, and, for DSLRs, with TTL phase-detect auto-focus, is required. TTL phase-detect auto-focus may work well, but the problem is it may be hard-to-impossible to see what you are focussing on, because of the dark viewfinder relative to your environment.- A typical technique is to focus the camera without the filter, either manually, or with autofocus, and then attach the filter. Some care is required, particularly with extending zoom lenses, not to upset focus. Plate filters in a filter holder are better in this respect. There is a small focus shift on adding a filter, but negligible except for macro photography: the focus point will shift away from the camera by roughly 1/3 of the thickness of the filter glass - typically less than 1mm.- Possible difficulties in focussing suggest the use of small (ish) apertures to ensure adequate sharpness: say f/11 (full-frame); f/8 (APS-C); f/5.6 (Four Thirds). Significantly smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) will cause a loss of sharpness due to diffraction.- On SLRs, use the viewfinder blanking plate to prevent stray light entering the camera via the viewfinder. With a 10-stop filter, not much stray light needs to enter the camera to ruin a photograph. If you've lost the one that came with your camera, inexpensive 3rd-party replacements are available for popular camera models. On some camera models, you may get away without the blanking plate. I have tried and failed to provoke my D7200 to misbehave when using a 10-stop filter - for example by shining a 1.5W single-LED torch into the viewfinder.- Fitting *any* filter increases the likelihood of ghosting and flaring: Use a lens hood or matte-box to shade the filter and lens from stray light.Alternatives:=============SRB ND1000: Moderate, correctable, blue cast; similar construction; half the price (roughly).Breakthrough Technology X4 Neutral Density 3.0: [I haven't tried this] Fairly neutral; low vignetting; Excellent construction; double the price (at least).

I have these filters (cpl/6 stop/10 stop) and have recently used for the first time. No issue with colours or ease of use but...... once these get dirty or wet there seems to be no easy way to clean them. Dry cloths just smear and lens wipes make matters worse. I have tried hot water and this does help remove grease etc from finger marks but still means that you have a long session of cleaning afterwards. Let’s face it, landscape photography is not done indoors so if you can’t clean them then they are of little use. Maybe Hoya can provide some enlightenment on this as they don’t include any cleaning advice with the product. My suggestion is to look elsewhere for nd filters.

Great piece of kit . Excellent results captured of fast flowing rivers on long exposures .. No colour cast at all .. Would recommend to anyone .. Quality glass at a great price !

I have bought the Hoya 49mm Pro ND 1000 filter.It is just great for my Sony a7 camera and Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 lens. Hoya produces the best value for money ND filters. The ND 1000 is the darkest neutral density filter for 49 mm filter thread. It's ideal for long exposure shooting. Like in the case of creating light rays from car lamps during night. Or vanishing people and cars from photos during daylight by using 30 seconds long exposure.It is isn't truly neutral density. It changes a little the colors. Not big issue for amateurs like me. That is unavoidable with affordable ND filters. It isn't a professional ND filter as its name suggests. Professional ND filters costs at least five times more. For its money it's great thought.The reflections are truly negligible. Very good anti reflecting coating. This something I like with all Hoya filters. I have problems to clean the filter with my lenspen. I don't know why. The box of the filter could be better. It is heavier than the filter, it doesn't close safely.I combine the filter with another Infrared filter and shoot directly the sun with telephoto lens for sun spots.

I bought this for using with my Fujifilm X100F. I find that an ND 64 is a good filter for landscape, And coupled with the cameras internal ND, would be enough to allow me some slower shutter speeds and also to cope with bright conditions and allow more creative use of depth of field.I've got a few Hoya's that I use with my other cameras, as well as Gobe and a Lee filters. Hoya's are well made and the only issue I've had is they can be quite easy to scratch.I've always been happy with the results using Hoya, and in my 25 years of photography I've only had one Hoya I didn't like, so it's a brand I trust.