BIRCHTREE 4M(L) x 2M(W) x 2M(H) Polytunnel Greenhouse Pollytunnel Poly Polly Tunnel Fully Galvanised Anti Rust 19MM Steel Frame

Bought one 4 years ago. Survived all storms, hales, heavy rains and heat waves. I've modified it slightly to increase the lifespan by using 5-6 steel wire to increase structural integrity and rigidity of the frame as well X 2 layers of classical duct tape to stop the cover from rubbing against the frame and to increase UV and heat resistance of the covering ( definitely worth doing ). The only reason why I decided to give 4 stars rather than 5 are the zippers as well as velcro window covers, because they don't last ( had to repair and replace on 3 separate occasions ).

This is a pretty basic polytunnel but it works very well and I've assembled much larger and heavier kits. This was fairly easy to assemble but needed two people. Why? It makes it easier to hold the structure and assemble it, but is especially useful for when you need to put the cover on. Also, because the pack contains lock nuts, you can't easily tighten a bolt and hold it yourself, unless you have a decent socket set. It needs two people and yes you could do this on your own, but it would not be much fun!Firstly, you need to prep and level the ground. The easiest way to fix this down is to use ground screws. You screw these in at two opposite corners and then fit a total of 4 or 6 to your structure - they will hold this polytunnel from moving, ever. The 2.5cm pipes used for the tunnel are easy to bolt, clip or cable tie (with steel cable ties) to the ground screws. This is a much easier method than laying a base, patio slabs or expecting the tent pegs in this kit to hold your tunnel down in high winds. Not gonna happen!In terms of assembly, I found the best way to do this kit is to make the two halves (as shown in the instructions) but not fully tightening all the bolts as you go. When you join the two halves together for putting the final curved ribs in place, you can then finally tighten everything up. Once you have it tight, you'll see anywhere it's out of alignment by looking down the run of the ribs. Make any corrections before you apply the cover and make sure you get the right poles for each section.I've got 6 ground screws in now (they are called big ben ground screws if you want to check them out) and they will take over 1200 kilos of force each to shift them. Next job is to bubble wrap this. Although I've got a good seal around the edges (soil and bricks) I want to make it more insulated.Total cost of this project is 225 for the polytunnel, 150 for the groundscrews and some additional pipework to make benches and staging. Not bad for a 6 metre growing house. Hope this was useful - the screws are worth it, just for peace of mind and stability in British winds!

My brother put this up on his own so ild say very easy to assemble.Good value for money.Good size.

Easy to assemble.I added insulating tape to the metal to help protect the covering during hot, sunny days.Have had it up since purchase and in daily use through Summer 2022. The 2 doors and 8 windows were pivotal during the hottest year on record.Overall, very happy and would buy this polytunnel again.

Excellent value for a first polytunnel. Instructions are 'basic' but pretty straight forward to assemble. Frame can be put together in 30mins by one person, however to get the cover over you really need 2 people.Instructions suggest that you dig a trench to bury the skirt of the cover (which I did), thereby helping stop it blowing away, HOWEVER the same instructions also tell you to remove the cover in winter as it cannot withstand sub-zero temperatures! Ridiculous to expect you to dig it up every year. I don't expect the cover to last more than a couple if years max - but you can buy replacements.When I do eventually buy a new cover I will go for a clear plastic rather than green in order to allow more light.

Great polytunnel but let down by patheticly week zip closure on door, both broke within days of use

Had this in the box for a couple of months before we were ready to assemble and found this was not the one in the picture but a much poorer quality one. It is very thin material , you can see everything inside from outside. It tore on one place without any undue pressure while assembling. The window openings are not like the picture either and are same as my previous tunnel, where they stopped sticking down, flapped wildly and had to be sealed closed with strong tape. There was no ties to fasten to the bottom frame = which are shown in the picture. The overlap, to sink into the ground is much shorter than the last tunnel I had (and the picture shown). Not expecting this to last long

Read the instructions.Check to make sure all of the parts are present.Check the heads of the screws/bolts that are supplied. I found that one screw head wasn't correctly formed and was unusable. I then had to visit Block and Quayles to procure a replacement.Make sure you also buy some hotspot tape. When it is applied to the ribs of the frame it will make putting the cover on so much easier. It will also help protect the cover from heat damage.Make sure you buy some anchor bars to secure the frame to the ground.Before you assemble it, make sure that you clear the ground of weeds and undergrowth for where it is going as this will give you a clear working area.Assembly was easy and very straightforward.Start at one end and work along until the frame is complete and you'll have no problems.Once the frame is complete, go along and tighten up every screw/both.Apply the hotspot tape to the vertical ribs of the frame.Putting the cover on was relatively easy. I did this on my own.Once the cover is on make sure you secure the internal 'velcro' straps.To finish it off and add a bit of structural security, I put some 'sleepers' around the edge of the polytunnel as you can see in the attached photographs.