SCIGRIP 10313 16 Acrylic Plastic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium Bodied and Fast-Setting, Clear, 1 Gallon (128 fl oz)

I couldn't figure out which cement I needed so I bought both the #16 and the #4. Found out quickly that this is similar to the glue you used to use when you were a kid to build models. (OK, I did anyway). Smells about the same and has the medium thickness viscosity, sort of like a jelly thickness. It is good if your parts don't have an absolutely perfect seam. If your parts do have a perfect seam, then you can use the #4 which is like water and you will be able to use a needle applicator. By the way, this is really similar to a PVC glue used in plumbing. It did not have a cotton ball applicator, so getting the cement out is a bit of a challenge without making messes. Not sure what the best way would be, maybe a syringe with a good size tip.I write reviews because I want to help other people make decisions. I do not write reviews of items that I have not personally used.If this helped you, PLEASE click on the YES button below "was this review helpful". Thank you. <><

This product is fake and re-labeled with a fake "SCIGRIP" very cheap label on top of a "weldon" brand product. This is false advertising and you don't get what you are believed to be buying. Not very cool at all.

I got this to glue together some 3D printed parts made of PLA, after I tried just about everything else: superglue, silicone, polyurethane glue, contact cement. Couldn't get anything to bond the parts. I was beginning to conclude that it was just impossible to glue PLA. I tried this stuff and it created a really strong bond that cured quickly. I highly recommend this for gluing PLA, if that's your goal.

I constructed my first 1/4 in thick acrylic box using lucite brand pmma sheets. You have to apply the adhesive before you assemble the object; this is not easy (for two reasons). The adhesive is too viscous to apply to a dry-fit box the way that one would with Weld-on #4 or #3 ithrough capillary action. So you apply a bead to the edges then assemble. #16 pours out of the tube, so you have to tip it carefully. The cement at the tip dries quickly and can stall application, especially if you stop to put the pieces in a jig and don’t recap the tube. Because it is runny and can permanently smudge acrylic, I recommend practicing with scrap first. The balance between too little adhesive and too much (small globs squeeze out if you have excess) is hard to strike.One thing is clear, this adhesive forms strong bonds, strong enough that they are difficult or impossible to break. So a water-bearing box will likely have sufficient strength. If you are building a fish tank, you may want to use #3 or #4 so it looks clean, and you can assemble before you apply adhesive.For attaching two flat pieces together front to back, this is the adhesive to use. For attaching edges, I would recommend using the thinner weld, especially if you are making a box.

I had made some custom drawer inserts for my wife's silverware drawer. I used 1/8" Lexan and the original glue that I used did not hold up.I had cut the pieces so they interlocked and they were now coming apart. After reading several reviews - some saying that this wouldn't work with Lexan and some saying it would - I decided to give it a try. IT WORKS! Those pieces are now fully integrated and solidly connected - I can lift the whole assembly out of the 17"x23" drawer and they don't wobble or rack at all.This stuff is a little runny, so be sure to have your work surfaces covered so it won't damage them. It gels up and then sets up quite quickly (probably less that a minute) so have your ducks in a row before you start. Also, make sure your surfaces to be joined are VERY clean.I needed to assemble the pieces in place, so I lined the drawer (bottom and sides) with parchment paper to protect the wood surfaces. I then dripped a couple of drops of the clue on the to of the joint so it would run down into the interlocking seams. I used a plain round toothpick to smooth the glue up and down the joint (keep several toothpicks handy). The glue set up quickly and dried clear.Another tip is to have something to prop the tube up glue upright so it doesn't flow out when you set it down as you move from piece to piece.As I mentioned before, the glue gels fairly quickly so I had to repeatedly ream open/clean out the tube tip as the glue coagulated around it. It's not a problem, but it's something to be aware of.I love this stuff and I'll be using it on future Llexan and other plastic projects.

Title says it all, great item, clear and bonds fasts. Arrived 2 weeks earlier then the shipping estimate!

Glued plexiglass panels together with ease. Works well. Easier to use than liquid on larger panels.

great for welding/gluing acrylic. just reordered. keeps for a few years b4 drying out, as long as you keep the cap on! lol

works well

Seems to have done the job so far only time will tell...but so far so good...it was delivered before the promised date.