HoneywellHome CT410B Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat CT410B1017

I bought three of these in like new condition and they all came packaged with original items except one was missing a screw but that was no big deal since I reused the old one that I was replacing. My rental house was made in the the late 40s and I don't know how old the thermostat was on the wall but that uses two wires that was a black, white, and ground. This thermostat only has a black and red with no ground. The in-line feed is the top that comes from the breaker panel. Each wire is 120v for a total of 240 volt. The bottom two wires black and red goes to the baseboard heater. The face cover plate is a clip-on type and barely stays on. It doesn't take much strength to remove the cover plate. It does look good and the dial shows what temperature the dial can turn to. That is why I bought this but I am uncertain about the accuracy. I suggest you buy a thermometer and mount it above this dial on the wall to see the true temperature of the room. Mount away from the heater.

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Works as should looks nice

Great price

I used this with a boxed heater with a fan running 250 volts and 22 amps. It worked fine with my first green house. The second greenhouse I used the same heater and similar thermostat but the wire gauge was lower (12 gauge). This caused heat build up in the thermostat and it would continuously cut itself off because of the heat generated with the wires that were too small for the amperage. It would cool off and cut back on. Best to use 8 gauge wire for a 22 amp heater so this does not happen to you.

Good replacement for forty plus year old room thermostats for baseboard heating. Nothing fancy, just works. Make sure when you buy to know whether you have a two wire or four wire thermostat system.

I bought this Honeywell Home CT410B Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat CT410B1017 to replace a Honeywell Model Number T498B -- Electric Heat Thermostat. The old thermostat was in the apartment I've lived in for possibly as long as the building was built, 52 years ago. In any case it wasn't working. I thought that the problem may have been with the actual electric baseboard heating unit itself since an electrician told me a few years prior that the baseboard units can develop more electrical resistance over time. I dreaded having to submit a repair request to my landlord because I have so much stuff in my living room that would have had to be moved in order to access the baseboard unit which is about 9 feet in length.The older model is apparently no longer in production by the manufacturer. There are a few new old stock units for sale here by private sellers, but the price is upwards of $70 to $80.So I took a chance and ordered this newer model. The unit arrived the next day, and not a day too soon in January 2024 just as the Arctic cold was dropping the temperatures well below zero degrees Fahrenheit here in the Midwest.The job to install the new unit was straightforward and the instructions were very clear. A word to the novice: if you at all uncertain of how to remove and replace a line voltage thermostat, by all means, do not chance it: call a professional. However, if you know something about basic home electrical wiring and are absolutely certain that you can safely remove and replace a line voltage thermostat, then carefully read the instructions twice to be certain you understand what the steps are. The first and most important step is to cut the power to the unit at the electrical service breaker. Be absolutely certain you have switched the breaker to the "Off" position. If there is more than one baseboard heating unit in your house or apartment, as a precaution, switch off ALL 240V breakers for the heaters.The wires are very stiff and require a bit of careful bending to get them to fit back into the circuit box on the wall.After I installed the new unit, I switched the breaker to the "On" position and turned the temperature adjustment know slowly clockwise until I heard a little click, indicating the thermostat was sending power to the heating unit. In a matter of a few minutes, heat was literally pouring out of the baseboard unit!If you have an electric baseboard heater, this Honeywell Home thermostat is the way to go. Don't bother with any "digital" or "programmable" line voltage thermostats. They are not as reliable as this basic model. To set the temperature, and be sure you are getting the temperature you want, just put an accurate thermometer on the wall next to the thermostat and adjust the setting as needed. Follow all the instructions carefully, and stay warm!

Works great! Perfect for the area and easy to read.

Honeywell Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line... sold by JensenOK, here we go.This product comes in a nice little box and is packed well. It looks basic and works, sort of like it should.l--- This thermostat is is questionably accurate and I will explain whyfor keeping the room warm, it will do this, in a acceptable manner but if you require accurate temperatures, this may not be your target.I am using a 1500 watt heater, this thermostat claims "Can control up to 5,280 Watts". I will say, with your full knowledge of the following, it may be able to do just that.With my 1500 watt heater, I found the box where the contacts are, will heat up. This affects the thermal temperature control. The thermal sensor feels that heat from the switch and will falsely open or shut down the heater even though it has not attained the proper temperature.My test was done with NO ELECTRICAL BOX, the thermostat was propped up with the ventilation slots open to the air. The rear of the thermostat was open to the air....The highest I could get the room temp was 73, this is with the thermostat set at MAX TEMPERATURE.If you try to control a heater at the recommended 5280 watts, the heat in the thermostat will be higher and the temperature level will be lower.--- The only way you will be able to get around this heat problem would be to add a relay or a solid state relay and have the thermostat control the relay. This takes the load off of the thermostat, which takes the heat away and allows the thermostat to be more accurate.-- In conclusion, this thermostat will work, it won't be accurate and it does get warm to hot. My use was with the thermostat NOT installed in a enclosure so it had free air for cooling and was still affected by the warmth generated inside the thermostat switch.Max temp I could attain was 73 with the thermostat dialed at full or max heat. The thermostat was switching off as you can hear the click so the switch was being thermally actuated. This max temperature varies so the heat was definately affecting the thermal operation. You could feel the heat on the switch case which confirmed the excess heat.-- I STRONGLY RECOMMEND if you use this thermostat, to install it in a recommended metal box/case. Do not install above a heater as the warm air from the heater will affect its ability to sense ambient air temps. I am lead to believe that this thermostat is meant to be installed in a baseboard heater unit. The Temperature at floor level is cooler and this difference in air temp may allow more approving results.Also, if you are installing this unit in a cramped/tight enclosure, you may have to arrange the wires so there is no tension on the thermo box connections. I had this in one position and it wouldn't work until I moved the wires. Note that the wires are not attached by screws, more like a spot weld so the connection is not likely to fail. If you have an operation problem, check the thermostat installation.EDIT 10-22-2018I have done further research on this thermostat and now have been able to get good temperature control.The weakness of this thermostat is the temperature control device. It will not run the current (power) through without creating heat. When it creates heat, if makes the thermo device open prematurely.Yes, I have a fix.First, the thermostat is NOT a 220/240v thermostat unless you add a relay, where the 220/240v power is switched through the relay.I use my thermostat to run a 1500 watt heater. The thermostat is hugely unable to perform this task by itself as explained above.The answer is to take the load/current OFF OF THE THERMOSTAT. You can use a relay to do this, I used a solid state relay, about $8 from MPJA, an electronics parts reseller. With all the load on the SSRelay, the thermostat no longer has any load across the thermo unit to make it prematurely heat up and open the contacts. With the load now switched across the SS RELAY, I am getting more heat out of the heater, it is staying on until the room actually warms up then switches off as required.In short, unless you are using this thermostat for a very light load, it will not work properly for large loads UNLESS you add a relay or solid state relay to handle the heavy current from your heater device.With the result I saw with the addition of the SS Relay, I STRONGLY suggest this addition to this particular thermostat.I am not associated with the seller and did not receive any monies or product for my review180703 1529