In the City of the Marabouts: Islamic Culture in West Africa

This book, stemming from the greater anthropological research by the author, condenses a few main observations of Islamic culture in Mali into a neat, story-telling presentation. The book catalogues the field research approaches, multiple interviews of Malian Marabouts and the author’s attempts to understand the local religious and cultural dynamics. There are different types of Marabouts; different training depending on their social purpose.In general, a Marabout is a religious teacher, some teaching in Qur’anic schools. All are considered sources of wisdom and many are sought after for advice in everything from curing diseases to warding off evil spirits to assisting in attracting a mate.The author tells the story of how "Maraboutage" is different from Islam. Through numerous encounters, many humorous, the author builds on his understanding of the mystical and astrological side of "Maraboutage". The mystical practices of Islam are just as much a part of daily life as are the theological beliefs and praxis of Islam itself. In some instances, the author describes the completely separate domains between Islam and mystical practices.The story-telling continues as the author describes the traditional system of Qur'anic schools, the science behind amulet making and the convergence of modernism and technology onto the social landscape. The author's notes span multiple decades and this most recent edition includes a follow-up visit to the region to compare current and previous observations.One interesting observation concerned that of the Sufi Brotherhooods. The author describes the various Islamic groups vying for influence in the region including Tijanniya Sufism and Ansar Dine. Neither of these two belief systems were considered Malian tradition, both striving to capture and hold sway the Malian population.I would recommend this book to anyone hoping to learn a little more about the relationship between global Islam, Sufism, African traditions and religious syncretism. Those specific terms may not used in the book but the description of events and observations allow the reader to develop their own perspective of the social situation. The one true element is that Malian religious culture, and that of the Sahel in general, is swiftly evolving. The cultural shifts are as important, if not more so, than the political and military landscapes. Cultural shifts certainly shape the current unrest and even political progress.

A recount of the writer's journey to Djenne, Mali. Pretty bland and the narration is hypnotizing.