Glarks 220Pcs Non-Insulated Butt Connectors Assortment Kit, 22-16/16-14/14-12/12-10 AWG Gauge Seamless Uninsulated Electrical Wire Ferrule Cable Crimp Terminal Kit for Electrical Splice DIY

I bought this splice kit and really like it. As long as you have shrink tubing to put over the connector when you make your splice. Just need a good crimping tool and to make a good crimp.

These are thin connectors they don’t hold the wire correctly even with pro crimp tool. Order the ones advertised as thicker copper.

These work great for automotive repair. I have used many of these and never an issue. They are not the split type so you can crimp as tight as you want and they won’t fall apart

The metal isn't super heavy but they seem to be adequate. Easier to confirm a complete crimp than the insulated splices. I shrink tube them after installation; takes up less room than insulated splices. You can also solder them for extra security, which you can't do with the insulated splices.

I found myself cutting up insulated connectors for the metal tube inside. Went on here and sure enough they make uninsulated butt connectors. Combine these with those hot glue heat shrinks, and you have a perfect connection I'd almost compare to a solder joint. These are not thin cheap things, they crimp and hold.

So much better than the insulated ones. I like to use the marine shrink wrap so these are nice and narrow, allowing me to slide the wrap over them and not increase the diameter of the wiring too much

These ferrules arrived quickly! Thumbs up Amazon.I did not double check the sizes vs the measurements. That I guess, is my fault.I was repairing a vacuum cleaner with a replacement power switch. I used the smallest connector BN1.25 "22-16 AWG" to connect 2 16AWG wires. I used the corresponding location on a quality pair of Stripper / Crimpers for Non-Insulated. The wires just fell out. I ended up re-stripping the wires, soldering them, crimping, soldering, then covered with heat shrink. It worked.Then I sat down with a veneer caliper and measured the I.D. of each size. The listed metric size was close to exactly the same once I converted. I then looked up Amer Wire Guage (AWG) standards for Copper wire. Here are the results.BN1.25 Stated 22-16AWG, actual 11AWG! Each side would hold either 10 of 22ga or 3 of 16ga wires.BN2 Stated 16-14AWG, actual 9AWG! Each side would hold either 5 of 16ga or 3 of 14ga wires.BN3.5 Stated 14-12AWG, actual 7AWG! Each side would hold either 5 of 14ga or 3 of 12ga wires.BN5.5 Stated 12-10AWG, actual 6AWG! Each side would hold either 4 of 12ga or 2 almost 3 of 10ga wires.So these do not work for intended purpose but may work as Molex crimps since the walls are quite thin.I will try that later and post. Until then I plan to order Ginsco 200pcs, UPC 610731355937 which only $1 more.

I used these to extend some short length ground wires on various circuits, when converting a service entry load center to a sub panel, where I had to add a separate ground bar on the opposite side of the panel. I used a hydraulic hand held crimping tool to compress these connectors onto the wire. This worked perfectly. With heat shrink tubing, these would work equally as well as butt connectors on insulated wire. Nice selection of sizes and quantities.