Thermal Grizzly Liquid Metal Thermal Paste - Conductonaut 1 Gram - Made in Germany Gallium Liquid Metal for PS5, CPU, GPU, Xbox, Game Consoles - Best for Overclocking, Premium Materials

I ordered this over a year ago when I bought a used Razer Blade Pro 2018. This laptop is notorious for running at its thermal throttling point basically any time it's running anything remotely intensive. I put Kryonaut on it when I got it, but it still hit 90C on the GPU and throttled. I finally decided to take the risk and apply the liquid metal Conductonaut paste. I already knew how to disassemble the laptop so getting to the heatsink was no problem. Cleaned the old paste with acetone and a paper towel, then used the included alcohol wipes to further clean the surfaces of any remaining paste, leaving them with a nice shine. Applying this paste is very different from conventional paste. Using the micro tip, the liquid metal comes out and forms a blob. You kind of have to press the liquid metal into the surface for it to start to take hold, but once it starts the rest can be brushed into a thin, shiny metal layer that evenly covers the die. I then put more on the mating copper heatsink surface. This took more force to get it worked in, but it left a nice shiny layer where I wanted it. I gently set the heatsink back in place and tightened the screws. Booted up the laptop after reassembly and fired up Overwatch. I was surprised that the GPU didn't immediately spike to 90C, instead hovering around 80-85C. Not a great temp but if it's not throttling I'll at least see a performance boost. Then I fired up Destiny 2. I started getting massive frame drops in between smooth 120fps gameplay. Turns out that by cooling the parts well, they'll try to throttle up and draw too much power, causing the power supply to reset and the laptop to drop into battery mode. This cycle repeats and causes lag spikes. Note that this is NOT the paste's fault! It works so well that it uncovers another flaw with this laptop's design. The laptop almost seemed to rely on thermal throttling to keep power draw under the power supply's limit. Fortunately, I knew about Intel XTU and MSI Afterburner. I was able to undervolt the CPU and GPU and turn down the CPU maximum and boost power until I no longer saw the battery mode drops. The result? Laptop runs cooler, quieter, and faster than it used to. I love the design of this laptop outside of its major power and thermal flaws, so I'm happy to have both at least sort of under control now.

Shorty story: Before with undervolt 95C thermal throttle on CPU and mid 80s on GPU After with undervolt may just touch 95C then settles at high 80s and GPU still mid 80s. Great results on CPU and I've very happy that my CPU isn't thermal throttling and can operate at full frequency/power. Would probably not use on GPU again, stick with paste. Long story: My MSI GS65 9SE, [9750H and RTX2060] would constantly thermal throttle the CPU at 95C during tests and games, even with max fans. Undervolted by -.145mvolts, and still throttled, but was able to gain a couple hundred megahertz. I repasted with Noctua NT-H1, but with undervolt was worse than before. I believe this wasn't the pastes fault, but perhaps my torque sequence was off, and had poor pressure. Paste had been fairly well spread. Decided something had to be done to get the temps inline, 95C was not acceptable. So ordered Conductonaut after watching many videos on use and results. Have to admit that the fear factor on this stuff out in the media is a little off putting, but I came to believe that it seems to be more hysteria than the result of it being that dangerous. I used high temp electrical tape to surround the dies on the CPU and GPU. This seemed like a better approach than using conformal coating. The application to the dies was pretty easy, but being my first time using it, judging the correct amount was a bit hard. I went with just enough to leave a liquid coat, that you could see just a slight flow of liquid, and was opaque over the die. However applying to the copper heat sinks was a different story. The copper appears to bond to parts of the thermal paste, causing it to dry out during application. As I understand it the copper can absorb liquid metal to a degree. So I made multiple applications to the heat sink to build up a coating, which in the end was lighter and thinner than that applied to the dies. Once I had it back together I was quite happy. With the undervolt it would not thermal throttle and would settle around 86-89C. With Intel XTU the benchmark rose 20 points. Cinebench R20 gained about 200-300pts. The CPU was able to hold the boost frequency, 4.1mhz, for the entire boost time then settle and hold 3.8mhz. The GPU really saw no appreciable change, and I would no recommend using LM over a thermal paste for the GPU. Conductonaut has made it possible for me to fix the one major flaw of the GS65, thermals.

Juste be carefull when apply, with copper just put some back on it After one month After the first coat because the copper will dry out the metal

Ich habe die Conductonaut von Thermal Grizzly für mein Gaming-Setup verwendet (CPU + GPU) – und die Ergebnisse sind beeindruckend! Die Temperaturen sind deutlich gesunken, teilweise bis zu 10–15 °C im Vergleich zu herkömmlicher Wärmeleitpaste. Gerade beim Overclocking ein echter Gamechanger! Das Auftragen erfordert etwas mehr Sorgfalt als bei normaler Paste (weil es sich um Flüssigmetall handelt), aber mit dem beiliegenden Zubehör (Alkoholpads, Applikatorspitzen etc.) gelingt es problemlos – wenn man vorsichtig und präzise arbeitet. Besonders gut gefällt mir die Konsistenz: nicht zu flüssig, gut dosierbar und ergiebig – 1 g reicht locker für mehrere Anwendungen. Wer weiß, was er tut und sich mit Hardware ein bisschen auskennt, wird von der Effizienz begeistert sein. Achtung: Nicht für Aluminium-Kühler geeignet – unbedingt vorher Materialverträglichkeit prüfen! Fazit: Für alle, die maximale Kühlleistung wollen und wissen, was sie tun, ist Conductonaut die absolute Top-Wahl. Klare Kaufempfehlung für ambitionierte PC-Nutzer!

Noticed a 10c+ difference under load in a gaming laptop.

Good product

Quality liquid metal, helps reduce temps considerably from 10c on just the IHS to cooler, or upto 20c with CPU delid, CPU die sanded, and IHS to cooler. Don't leave 1 star feedback after destroying your system because you were too amatuer to use this stuff, it requires a lot of care and some skill. If you are using this for a CPU delid, be sure to insulate any conducting areas that will sit under the IHS (integrated heat spreader, the big flat metal piece that is the top of your CPU where the cooler usually sits/makes contact with) or even outside it, this stuff is very runny and it may happen over time long after you have put the IHS back on. I used clear nail polish on exposed contacts, resistors or transistors etc... I avoided using any glittery types of nail polish as i'm not sure if they're conductive. Apply two layers to be safe (2nd layer after 1st layer has dried obviously). If the IHS is soldered to the CPU die (most modern CPU's have solder) be sure to use a delidding tool and carefully remove the IHS. There will be solder left on the CPU die, you will have to carefully remove it with either a blade (scraping blade is handy) or there are products you can buy that dissolve the solder safely, something like Flitz Polish can do this. If you use a blade, be sure to lightly sand down the remaining solder and use a super fine sand paper to get that mirror polished finish on the CPU die. I have sanded down 9900k CPU die's that are known to come excessively thick which also helps with reducing temperatures, but you do have to be super careful not to sand too much or you will destroy the CPU. Most IHS's and cooler contacts come copper based but if for some reason you have an aluminium based one, don't use liquid metal or it will corrode it and may fuse to the aluminium, which then you will most likely have to sand down to clean it off. Just buy a cheap copper IHS off amazon for the CPU you have, they're not expensive. Be sure to apply a very thin layer to both the CPU die and the inside of the IHS. You will need to have a rough idea where the shape of the CPU die will make contact with the inside of the IHS to avoid excess amounts dripping off the IHS to the surrounding areas of your CPU die, this is one of the reasons it is best to insulate the conductive parts of the CPU, if you don't know what parts are conductive, then just insulate everything that stands out as it can't hurt, but obviously not the back of the CPU where the contacts are for connecting to the motherboard! One method of knowing where to apply on the inside of the IHS is to apply on the die, place the IHS on the CPU and the die should touch the inside of the IHS and leave you a rough liquid metal outline to apply within. This is also good to see if the CPU die makes contact with the IHS if you sanded the die down (if it doesn't, then simply sand down the base of the IHS little by little until the die makes contact with the IHS. Finally, apply little dabs of glue on the IHS and place it in position, I usually install it into the motherboard while the glue is wet so the IHS is clamped down to the CPU by the motherboard socket, and you may want to use paste on the top of your IHS but if you do want to use liquid metal then either carefully apply it while it is installed in the motherboard or be patient and wait for the glue to dry, then take it out of the socket. You will need to apply liquid metal to the cooler too and will need a good idea where the IHS will make contact with the cooler, use the same method as before to see where it will make contact (apply to IHS, place cooler in position then take cooler out and look at where the liquid metal touched the cooler from the IHS). A little advice on applying liquid metal, it can be quite annoying trying to spread it at first as the blob of liquid tends to just follow the q-tip or seem like it gets completely absorbed by it. Keep trying to spread it with the q-tip even if nothing seems to be happening and apply some pressure so you're effectively squashing the liquid metal out of the q-tip and move the q-tip back and forth quite fast in a small area, eventually it will start spreading nicely and you will get the hang of it. I have delidded a 4790K, 2x 9700K, 9900K, 2x 9900KF, 10900K all successfully with this liquid metal and they are all running good to this day. I haven't attempted a delid with any AMD cpu's yet and wasn't bothered to do it to my 5950x as i use it for server purposes and general use, but the intel's were for gaming and overclocking so it was worth it. Watch many youtube videos to learn as much as you can before attempting this as CPU's are not cheap, but don't be scared as it is not rocket science, you just need to be clean and careful!