ATF Type TLS (T-IV) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion – 1 Quart, Pack of 2 | Engineered for Smooth Performance and Superior Protection

Quality fluids and perfect for my R53 Mini Cooper S. I replaced the valve body on the transmission and so at least 80% of the fluids were changed. Car is shifting perfectly now..

Replaced trans fluid in 2017 4Runner and it's been several months now and everything is great. Beware: You must follow the fill procedure properly which requires a scan tool that can read transmission temps.

It wasn't the idea of paying $12 a quart at the local dealership. OK, that's not the truth and we all know it. The idea of doing so was PARTIALLY it. I have used the word "It" in four consecutive sentences now and I'm not reviewing a media presentation of "Toyota/Lexus/Scion ATF brands: Is going to a non-dealer brand something that's Pennywise, or pound-foolish?" (You're welcome for that pop-culture reference). However, as the noted journalist and online sensation Randy Rainbow says, OK, let's cut the (Amazon's algorithms will flag this review if I use the next word, so I'll just say "extraneous and off-topic elements"): There are a few things it's well-known that you don't do. Tug on Superman's cape. Spit into the wind. Pull the mask of the ol' Lone Ranger, Or use one of the mass-marketed "Our ATF works in ANY import car" generic PenAmMobValHav options. SRSLY. You want the ATF (or CVT) fluid that is as closely matched to your particular components as possible. This has in the past resulted in some massive sticker-shock when the nascent do-it-yourself-er is charged full retail at their local ThieverShip's parts counter. (NOTE: I have been given VERY competitive prices on Honda-branded ATF in the past, at a dealership. Not all of them gouge to the bone on every item, nor must you always buy OEM. But do your research.) The price for this item, combined with the fact that it was, for my location, One Day Prime, was too good to pass up. You can never have too much ATF. Check the procedure in the owner's manual and follow to the letter. If they say it isn't user-serviceable, go look on YouTube for about 5000 videos showing how, and the first time be very careful or have a helper who knows what they're doing. Changing ATF ain't like an oil change, cleanliness is next to...to...well, cleanliness just pulled out way in front of the identical car whose owner uses a dirty, spiderweb-filled funnel to refill the pink juice. At least wipe off the inside and run a darn brush down the tube. If the funnel is metal, a spray of brake fluid cleaner or an ounce of acetone will clean out most other traces of yuck (please catch runoff and dispose of responsibly), but make sure your funnel has NOTHING in it but Automatic Transmission Fluid while doing one of these. Honestly, given the cost of the ATF, catch pan, occasional filter and pan gasket, etc, just pop the 3 bucks for a nice quality funnel each time you do these. MEASURE how much comes out when you drain it. You already know where it was on the ATF dipstick (no, I'm not insulting YOU. It's called a "dipstick". I'm assuming that if you are doing this yourself, 1: you check your fluids regularly, 2: the last time you checked the ATF stick, the fluid level was not at the "low", "below low", or "fluid? What fluid?" level, and 3: the old fluid still appears to be primarily reddish. If if looks like badly abused motor oil and/or smells obviously burnt, STOP and locate, via whatever network you use, a TRUSTWORTHY transmission diagnosis/repair shop. ATF isn't just lubrication, like your motor's oil (mostly) is. It's hydraulic fluid, lubricant, coolant, floor wax, and a dessert topping all in one. (Disclaimer: last sentence included a callout to an OLD school SNL bit. Transmission fluid is terribly poisonous if ingested, you should wear decently thick nitrile gloves while doing anything with it, and the only thing it makes floors do is cause injury due to slipperiness. Why the heck do I feel I gotta put these disclaimers in all of these?) Anyway, for a routine dump-n-refill, put in as much new as you took out old. Put it all back together and start it up. After a bit of warmup, in the driveway put foot on brake and slowly shift from Park down to the bottom of the tree and back up. Then stop the car and check the dipstick. If there's any large deviation from before, correct it before driving the vehicle. The top of the "full" mark is not a minimum acceptable fill. It's the TOP OF THE FULL RANGE. An extra quart won't just "go away" or "burn off". It can lead to crappy performance, degraded ability of the ATF to do its job, and premature failure of AT componenents. Similarly, if for some reason you now don't have enough ATF in there, sayeth the dipstick (always check three times -- minimizes the chance that you blew the first check), then add, 8 oz at a time, until you're in the Goldilocks zone. Strongly resist any attempt by ANY repair shop to perform a "power flush" on your newer HonToyMitNisEtc. What does the owner's manual say? Do that. If they say you need a dealership, figure out what THEY do and do it. And for gosh sake's, remember that just like the OIL filter, there's a transmission filter. Some of them are in fact not readily accessible by the owner. For those, suck it up and have an experienced mech do it. But if they are saying that simply dropping the pan to access a filter isn't possible for you mere mortal, pfui. Don't do it if you're a newbie at this or if you actually do your mechanic-ing under a shade tree. Filter changes which involve ANY exposure of the inside of the transmission requires you to be VERY careful with your cleanliness, the area where you absolutely SHINE that pan using nothing but lint-free virgin shop cloths, the part cleaning fluid you use to scrub the bolts, ensuring that every bit of the old gasket is off of both surfaces and the new one is properly positioned, lubricated, seated, and tightened. Oh, and "torque measurements"? Not optional, nor is the bolt pattern you will replace the pan with. But that is a tale for another day...

I use Idemitsu ATF in Hondas and Toyotas if not using the factory fluid.

Always use in your subaru

Quick shipping good price

TLDR: 1) Same thing as factory fluid 2) Also works great for power steering 3) Run this cheaper fluid with upgraded coolers and magnetic filters instead of buying the most expensive fluids. I currently use this older/thicker formula, "T-IV / type-4" (instead of the newer "WS / world standard" which is thinner and more expensive) along with external auxiliary coolers, steel braid jacketed cooler lines, and a Magna-Fine magnetic (metal case) filter for both my power steering and auto trans. Filters are changed every year and fluid is "changed" (cold fluid drain and fill x1) twice per year. For power steering, just drain and then top off the pump reservoir a few times a year. No need to run the super-expensive synthetic ATF. Change your fluids at least once a year and you will have no problems. I currently run this in a bone-stock 200,000 mile Lexus IS300. Big external coolers and it eats up BRUTAL daily driving in 100-degree weather all day without complaining. Steering feels nice and heavy and the pump runs quiet. Transmission feels like new no matter how hot it gets.

OEM quality for Toyota & Lexus !!! Never, ever had any issues using this ATF product over 10's of thousands of miles on the original transmissions. This also includes the Toyota power steering pump fluid too. Drain and refill (per Toyota maintenance schedules) and your good to go !!

Used on my 2004 Toyota Matrix RX for the first time fluid change ever at 175,000km (and filter) a month ago. So far so god. Price was the main reason why I bought this brand.

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Llegó puntual y excelente producto.