Rust-Oleum A65741 Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish for Interiors (Natural Wood Stain Color - 946 ML)

One of the best and easiest natural looking polishes one can buy in India. The price however has tripled since I last bought a can of Danish Oil

Great for natural finish for wood work. But I found that I still needed to use a PU or varnish coat to protect it from the dust (given the heat and dust in India). Worked very well with Neem wood (Indian Lilac). As a first time wood Diy-er...have to make a special mention of the user friendliness of the product. None of the fuss of streaking and such... 3 coats over as many days ... perfection In picture: before sanding and oil application on right After sanding and 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil on the left.

Might appear expensive but more economical in the long run. It can easily be applied by the home enthusiast without assistance and in very little time and with very little mess.It is longer lasting than french polish as the oil penetrates the wood and in fact the wood begins to appear richer with time. Add to it that you really don't have to sand, sand and sand as you need to do for french polish. A moderate amount of sanding for a smooth surface with sand paper 150 should do. Strongly recommended

I used it on pine wood. The finish was good. And it is simple to apply . It will not give you blindingly glossy finish but rather it'll maintain the natural feel of the wood. Grains are highlighted after the application

Pores of wood absorb it to the depths, yea, you can feel it later. Just 20-30 of its easy application and you can put your wood work to use. But the best thing- it changes the refractive index of the wood. Thus the low quality wood also appears very high quality.

Works well if you follow the instructions closely with regard to the drying time between successive coats. I used it for unfinished acacia wood Provides a nice sheen and glow to the furniture without too much of a shine. One star less due to the high cost of this oil in India

Super product, easy to apply and smells good!

Gud finish ... Would recommend

Good

The review says 4pkt but only one tin of oil arrived.

El uso es muy simple, sobre la madera lijada, en este caso a 320, se aplica con un paño limpio el aceite, se retira en 15 minutos y se repite una hora después, 72 hrs después puse la última capa. El color que adquiere es muy bonito y las vetas se ven profundas. En este caso además puse una capa de cera 3 días después para acentuar el brillo. En conclusión el trabajo es una fracción de lo que requiere el laqueado o la nitrocelulosa y el terminado es excelente. El único pero, el precio. Pero rinde bastante. Este baúl es de 60x40x 38 y consumió unos 120 ML en todas las manos, adentro y afuera.

Excelente resultado. Cumplió mis expectativas

Danish Oil... what is it really? It sounds impressive but is it really impressive? Tung Oil v. Teak Oil vs. Danish Oil Watco Danish Oil is a good product for what it is but it is NOT what it sounds like... a true oil. It is a oil/varnish mixtures that contain an oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. Watco Danish Oil doesn't last long and needs constant re-application. It is not durable. It does makes wood pretty bringing out the natural grain patterns but do do many other products such as natural color stains, or Waterlox Tung Oils Finishes. Any thing will bring out the beauty that is not opaque. What do you really want to do? It all depends on what you are using any of these products for. Do you want something that will actually look fantastic, seal the wood, and provide some protection to a moisture-rich environment. Do you want to stay away from the cheap "plastic" look of polyurethane? You might want to try something other than Danish Oil. I don't care what Bethany or anyone else said on here, it is not true. Danish Oil will NOT provide water proofing at all, it will not even provide minimul water protection of any kind. It will spur the growth of mold. Your wood piece will be ruined if it gets wet. Either it will discolor, swell or delaminate in contact with water. Time is the factor that determines how quick this happens. There is no such thing as water PROOF when it comes to these faux oil combinations or true 100% oils, either. Even the highly regarded Waterlox Marine Sealer is not totally waterproof. And it is one of the best products, if not THE best, out there for wooden boats. It will last a long time getting wet. But not forever. Try Waterlox Original in Gloss or Satin. Watco Danish Oil is simply ok stuff, but Waterlox beats it hands down in almost all applications. Lesson learned over many, many years of fine wood working. I have done furniture finishing and refinishing for a living for 20 plus years and now do it strictly for a hobby. I have used every product made to man including spraying lacquer. The confusion? There is so much marketing garbage associated with all the "oils" related to wood finishing. First, is the question of what do you mean by "tung oil"? Do you mean real, 100%, pure tung oil (a drying oil) or one of the many faux "tung oil finishes" most of which contain no real tung oil at all. Tung Oil Finishes (like Minwax Tung Oil Finish and many others) are oil/varnish "faux" mixtures that contain linseed oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. You can make your own by mixing equal parts of the three components. Making your own is easy and cheaper by far. And just as good as something with a name brand that you pay dearly for. Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. This tung oil and linseed oil mixture is then mixed with varnish and mineral spirits. Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. Again, a "faux" mixture. It is minus the tung oil. See a pattern here? In other words, these faux finishes...Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are darn near identical. They all lead you to believe you are getting something rare and exotic. The differences are based on marketing, not performance. Of course, there is also real, 100% pure tung oil and also 100% boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that the 100% tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistantthan the 100% boiled linseed oil. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold. Mold is nasty stuff. So, how does this all fit into your project? Most faux oil finishes are not very protective from a water resistance or abrasion resistance point of view. These oils are an in-the-wood finish that will leave the natural look and feel to the wood, which is beautiful because wood is of course, beautiful. None are long lasting and require frequent renewal to maintain their properties and looks. These oil/varnishes are good for furniture items that do not get heavy abuse but I would not recommend any oil as a finish for something in a bathroom or moisture laden kitchen unless you are willing to perform the maintenance. The appropriate finish in a bathroom or kitchen wet area is a film finish. Once again Waterlox Original Sealer would be a good choice. I have heard it is just a thinned varnish. How untrue. It has Tung Oil in it. It's a combination of phenolic resin/tung oil/varnish/mineral spirits that has excellent water and abrasion resistance. It penetrates wood deeply and that is the key to a long lasting water resistant finish. A few coats of this to build it up a bit and you are set to go. Phenolic resin is what gives it the water resistance. And without the tung oil, Waterlox extraordinary finishes wouldn't be possible. The key to this being such a great product is the percentage mixture of the ingredients. A closely guarded secret, of course. And another benefit is it looks just like a Danish, Tung or Teak oil finish as far as final finish that will leave the natural look and feel to your wood. Yet this mix will give you water protection and mold growth protection while also giving you the woods true and natural beauty. No plastic polyurethane look with this stuff. This is my personal recommendation for all fine furniture or just regular every day furniture, no matter what the application or wood product. It makes your wood beautiful, but functional also. Another good product for water resistance and abrasion resistance is Behlen's Rockhard varnish. Myself, I use both Waterlox and Behlens. I prefer Waterlox, all things considered. But either one is fantastic. Then there is "lacquer" for extreme long life on interior woods. It comes in satin, semi or gloss finish but it is not easy to apply. It must be sprayed and it must be done in a proper environment as the fumes given off by drying are extremely explosive. Yes, I said "EXPLOSIVE" and I mean it. Drying fumes are extremely dangerous and could KILL YOU in an explosion. It doesn't take much for it to explode and lacquer is NOT for the do-it-yourselfer. Even if you don't have an explosion, you do not want to get the fumes in your lungs. Better left to a professional in a properly equipped shop with the proper ventilation required to spray lacquer. Ok, polyurethane. For best appearance, I would avoid using a polyurethane varnish. To me, it's just not very pretty stuff. But it does have it's place. If you don't care about the plastic look and you need moisture protection, have at it. It is cheaper than Waterlox. Lastly, Watco is now "not shipping their product to many states" due to the crazy government control freaks. Get your Waterlox or Behlens before UNCLE SAM/EPA stops those products also from shipping, too. It's just a matter of time. Next thing you know, we will have to wear seat belts, safety harnesses and helmets when woodworking. Hope you learned something here. It took me 20 years to gather this information through experience.