スタンズノーチューブ(STAN'S NOTUBES) TIRE SEALANT

It’s sealant. It seals. It’s more cost effective and environmentally friendly to buy in this form than in small one-use bottles. Don’t know what else can be said.

TLRでマックオフ、パナレーサーと使ってみて3つ目。 マックオフは初めてだったのでよく分からず。空気入れた次の日くらいにはもう圧が下がっていたが、こんなもんかなと思っていた。 パナレーサーに替えてみると、今度はクルミ片が入っていた。確かに圧は抜けにくいのかな？一通り使って特に何も起こらなかった。 3つ目がこちら。サラッとした液体。固形の成分が入っていないので扱いが楽。入れてみて程なくして大きめのパンクをしたが、基本的にエア漏れはしっかり止まる。そのまま暫く乗っていたが、毎回乗ってる間にエアが漏れたのでタイヤ交換した。 交換した後に気付いたが、マックオフの時と違いなかなか圧が下がっていかない。今は30cを4.5barで運用してるが、数日経っても2barくらいは残っている。 固体成分が無いので漏れ防止の永続性が低いのかもしれないが、感覚的にはこれで十分。シーリング効果は高いように思うし、専用注入器があり注入量の調整もしやすい。 もうずっとこれでいいかなと思っています。

長い間チューブレスタイヤのスローリークに悩まされていました。この手の商品は内面がひどい状況になったり、バルブを詰まらせたりすることを懸念して、避けていました。思い切って使用したところシールは完璧でした。しかし、ビードをはめ込む為に高めの空気圧（4気圧＋）で空気を入れ一日経つとなんとタイヤの一部が水膨れ状態になってしまいました。もう何年も使っていましたので途中までひびが入っていたのかとあきらめました。でも、3時間位で空気が漏れていたのですが、全く漏れませんでした。数日後に新しいタイヤに交換しましたが、この日数ではバルブや内面にこびりつきなど全くみられませんでした。長期的にはわかりませんが？

Worked well for me!

商品写真はRACE SEALANTですが、うちに届いたのはTIRE SEALANTでした。 他の評価を見ているとどっちが届くかは運のようですねｗ TIRE SEALANTの場合はシリンジでの注入が可能ですがRACE SEALANTの場合は粒がデカいのでシリンジで注入すると詰まってしまう可能性があります。 RACE SEALANが届いた場合はシーラントを入れてからタイヤをはめる方法のほうがいいと思います。

普通に必要なアイテム(o^-')b ! しっかり仕事して頂いてます

パナレーサーに使ってみた。パナレーサーにはPanasonicをと言われ使用していたが、思いの外早くエア抜け兆候あったので、こっちに変えてみた。量や環境や費用頻度が違うのでなんとも言えないが、残念な点は見られていない

使う前によくかき混ぜてください。 大切な繊維が底に沈んで固まっています。 棒でよくかき混ぜた方が良いかもです。 品質は最高です。

No tunes, no problems!

very effective. topped up 60ml to my tubeless MTB tire since it's been loosing air and i cannot find any puncture, and have to pump it every 2 days. Since then, i have not pumped my tire and still have same pressure.

Race sealant is the best version of Stans: comes spurting out like something in an 80s blue movie. Seals well.

I used this to seal the Mavic Yksion Elite All Road tires I purchased here on Amazon for my Diamondback Century 4 Carbon bike. I wanted to go with a tubless setup as I was tired of getting pinch flats from running over sticks and the like on rougher trails. Using it is easy enough. I used this sealant injector that I got here on Amazon: Tubeless Sealant Injector Syringe and Presta Valve Core Removal Tool by KOM Cycling - Designed for Stans No Tubes sealant and other sealants Steps to mount tubeless tires (for road bike/gravel/cross tires, mountain bike is similar but amount of sealant will be about double and pressure to inflate to is around half, just look at the sidewall for max PSI when seating the bead): 1. Make sure your rim is tubeless ready, and seal spokes with Rim Tape if needed. I used Stans No Tubes Rim Tape: Stans No Tubes 10yd x 21mm Rim Tape 2. Install Valve Stems. Get the ones with removable cores; it helps with injecting sealant. I used these 35mm stems from Stans No Tubes: Stans No Tubes 35mm Presta Universal Valve Stem (Carded Pair for Mountain) 3. Install Tire on the rim. Try your best to not use tire levers, as it can mess up the bead on the tire. Tubeless tires typically have a VERY tight bead, to keep the tire from "burping" off the rim. They sell lubrication to get them on, but I just used a bit of soapy water on the one tire...the other one I was able to get on no problem. Tip: Install the label on the tire above the valve stem. It looks clean and helps you easily find the valve to inflate tires. 4. Seat the bead. This is the trickiest part. If you have an air compressor, I'd recommend using it here. You want as much air through the valve stem as possible (remove the valve core at this point). I had to get a special inflator gun for me to get enough air through the valve for it to work. I used this one: TYH Supplies Tire Air Pressure Gun Inflator Gauge with Chuck, PSI / BAR Dual Measurement up to 174 PSI, 1/4-inch Flexible Hose, Accessory Kit, Schrader to Presta Valve Adapter, 20 Valve Caps . If you have problems getting the bead to seat, you can put a tube in, inflate the tube, which will seat both beads; then CAREFULLY remove the tire by popping ONE bead off. This will leave only one bead for the air compressor to seat, and works much easier if you're having difficulty seating both beads at once. 5. Once the bead is set, fill the injector with 2-3 oz. of tire sealant, and inject it through the valve stem. I recommend angling the valve stem so that it's not directly at the bottom of the tire, but rather off to the side, at about 4 oclock or so; this prevents the sealant from wanting to come back out of the valve. 6. Reinstall the valve core, and inflate the tire to close to it's max pressure, typically 70-90 PSI will do the trick. You may hear the tire pop a bit as the bead settles into it's final position. 7. (optional) take bike for a short ride just to make sure the tire is seated okay. I took my bike for maybe a 5 minute, 1 mile ride or so just to quickly ensure they were seated. 8. This is one of the most important steps in my opinion. Get a cardboard box and fold the flaps in so you have a nice, level method of lying the tires on their sides. Lay each tire on its side for 24 hours, to allow the sealant to get into the tiny crevices of the bead. After 24 hours, reinflate, and flip them over to the other side, and wait another 24 hours. Then you should be good to go. After following these steps, my tires have held air incredibly well. I read a lot about how you need to inflate your tires more using a tubeless setup, but my tires have not lost any appreciable amount of pressure in the 3 weeks it's been since I've completed the steps above. If you get a slow leak or it doesn't seem to be sealing well, add another ounce or so of sealant..sometimes it just wants a little more and that's enough to solve the problem. So far I've been super impressed by how well this has worked, and I love the tubeless setup. So much nicer to not have to worry about pinch flats, and I can run 30ish PSI less than I used to without sacrificing efficiency, and the ride quality has improved tremendously. I highly recommend going tubeless if you are on the fence!

The sealant must be old old stock as there is huge lumps of what looks like calcium in the bottle.