VEVOR Metal Lathe Machine, 8.7 x 39 in, Precision Bench Power Metal Lathe, Automatic Feed, 0-2500 RPM Variable Speed, 1250W Brushless Motor, for Processing Precision Parts Soft Metals Wood Plastics

Fast shipment from the vendor & very professional! I would recommend this machine to any of my friends. It's a great bargain for its size class. The machine arrived undamaged. Everything appears to be working as it should. Tolerances and runouts are as advertised and will not require much, if any adjustment. It's just a nice little lathe! Machines packed for overseas transport are usually covered with clear cosmoline or something similar. This unit was no exception. Expect to get several shop towels saturated wiping off the bulk of it, then use WD-40 to dissolve and wipe off any of it that remains. It's also a good idea to check the gears for detritis like wood chips and styrofoam that popped off the inside of the crate due to stapling of the crate at the factory to prepare the machine for transport. The stiff, brown grease on the gears in the drive train is for lubrication. As long as it's clean, there's no need to remove it. I plan to keep it well lubricated and use Vactra way oil on the various gibs, dovetails, and Morse tapers. Regular oiling of the lead screws and bearings that have oil ports is best practice and the machine should last for many years if you take care of it. Swarf it down at the end of every work session and when you expect to leave it sitting idle for extended periods of time. One thing that's often overlooked by newcomers is shimming the lathe bed. If you want to maintain tighter tolerances and minimize errors, shim the legs of the lathe bed to remove any twists. The rubber feet supplied with the lathe are not helpful in this regard. Bolt the lathe feet to a heavy bench and add shims. YouTube has several good videos showing how to do this. As to the several comments about the motor not running, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!. There are several interlocks on this machine. The plastic cover over the lathe chuck has an interlock to ensure it is closed. The motor will not run if the cover is open. The Forward and Reverse switch on the front of the unit has to be set to the desired direction or the switch will trip out. And ALWAYS be sure to stop the machine when changing gears or directions. This thing isn't like a vehicle. Any time the gears or direction are changed, ensure the chuck is not turning! One other thing worth mentioning is that tachometer sensor under the end cover has to be close (but not touching) the left end of the lathe shaft. The small metal studs must clear the tachometer sensor. But if the sensor is too far away, the tachometer might register the rotational speed as something other than what it actually is. When I first turned on my machine, mine was reading about half the correct value. This is easy to fix by pushing the sensor a little closer to the shaft encoders, the small studs surrounding the end of the shaft. I have also seen a few people complaining about the lathe tools. These are brazed carbide cutters and need to be correctly sharpened before using. As with most brazed carbide cutters, it's up to the user to profile and sharpen them as needed before using them. You will likely also need to shim them in the tool holder to center them up to your workpiece. The lathe tool muti-tool holder will allow several cutter sizes. The ones in the included kit are 10mm x 10mm. If the cutter isn't lined up with with the vertical center of the workpiece, then watch some Youtube videos that explain how to do it. There is plenty of support for these machines on the Internet. If you have trouble finding videos, remember these all use similar parts that are made in the same factories in China. I agree that the multi-tool holder is a bit lacking and perhaps even more than a little clumsy. And depending on the metal you are working with, brazed carbide cutters might not be the best choice. They are typically used for cutting mild steel. Materials like high speed steel (HSS), titanium nitride, or cobalt steel cutter tools might be a better choice for other metals. It's just a budget tool holder with some general purpose tools for those who might not need anything better. There are lots of tool manufacturers with thousands of specialized tools available. Several recommendations are Shars Tool, Harvey Tools, and Tormach. There are several after-market quick change tool holders that will fit this machine with little or no modification. Remember, you are at liberty to add after-market parts and modify this machine as you desire. For small shop and hobbyist work, it's impossible to guess what every end user might need or expect. So watch videos, read books from the old timers, and ask questions. Someone will likely have a solution for whatever you may encounter. Also, remember that the larger the machine, the greater the cost for the tooling and work holding attachments. The cost of tooling and add-ons goes up exponentially with size of the machine. Many production shops that are trying to reduce turnaround time will expect more than the mini lathes and mini mills are capable of. If you expect the small machines to plow through the toughest metals with just a few passes, they just aren't capable of doing so. But most are capable of doing a decent job if you aren't in a hurry, take shallower cuts, use the right cutting tools, and don't have a long line of customers waiting. If you don't believe me, then look at what some of the so-called "model engineers" do with these things and even smaller machines of various brands. A good place to start is with the Home Shop Machinist books by Village Press, Inc if you are here in the US, and with lathe and mill books from Fox Chapel Books if you are in the UK or other countries. Amazon has both available.

Received in good condition, well packaged. All components were there, nothing missing. After cleaning the awful grease that covered everything and properly lubricated everything, I set in to make measurements and adjustments. The headstock runout was about 1thou, kind of expected for these cheap lathes. Ways were flat to about 1 thou after shimming and mounting to a heavy bench. The tail stock is absolute junk … it was 25 thou out of alignment. I could adjust the horizontal alignment, but the vertical was too high so nothing could be done to correct it other than machining the guide that sits on the ways. Unfortunately, the design is lame and the stock sits on an angle instead of sitting flat on the ways. To properly correct this, I’d need a 90deg chamfer bit for my mill but didn’t have one. I milled the opposite side to lower the stock so I could adjust it. I was able to align with the head stock to within 2-3thou. Total taper on a supported piece after turning it was still unacceptable. Getting a new tail stock. Yeah, I knew this would be a project, but didn’t expect the tailstock to be that bad. If you bought this and didn’t have a mill, this lathe would not be useable. I’m rating it 1 star so everyone is aware that if you buy this lathe you may not be able to get it in working order if you don’t have the tools and skills to fix it. There is truly NO quality control on this stuff so buyer beware.

To be honest, I was not expecting this lathe to be as good as it has been. I did my research, watched a ton of You-Tube video on the machine, so I kind of knew what I was getting myself into. Be prepared to put in a LOT of hours before making your first chips, and adding a few hundred bucks for tools, tool holders, center drills etc. You MUST remove all the shipping grease that is packed into every nook and cranny. The guy who did mine must have been going for employee of the month with the amount of grease on the thing. You have to disassemble the carriage, cross slide and compound, as well as the gears under the gear cover. Remove the chuck from the machine and then the jaws from the chuck and clean everything. (Here's a tip: When reassembling the jaws on the chuck, hold them in place with one hand then turn the chuck key counter clockwise. You'll feel each jaw click into place one at a time, then tighten. Also notice that each jaw is numbered (1,2 and 3) and so is the chuck body. Match them up when reassembling). Then clean, clean and clean, put it all back together, tighten and adjust all the gibs. I used a two pass cleaning system. First I cleaned with WD-40 and a whole lot of paper towel. The WD will dissolve the grease easily but leave a film. I followed that up with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and an old tooth brush, and even more paper towel. Take everything you can apart. Even the gib adjustment screws and nuts, but BE CAREFUL. Some of the parts are really small. I spent too much time on my hands and knees with a flashlight and magnet, but even these little buggers are full of grease and have to be cleaned up. I cleaned up each section as I took it apart and put the screws back where they came from right after cleaning and drying them. There are a ton of little screws and they're not all the same, so avoid mixing them up and put them back temporarily in the screw holes they came from. Otherwise you'll end up with a good size pile of screws and wonder where they all go. Take pictures as you take things apart as well. After a good cleaning, lubricate all the moving parts with way oil on the ways and gibs, and iso68 hydraulic fluid on the screws as you put it back together. This ensures that all surfaces get oil Dont forget the ball oilers, there are 5 of them. One in the chuck, one in the tailstock and one in the lead screw bracket. There are 2 in the geartrain under the gear cover. It took a lot of time, but if you invest it at the beginning, it will pay off in the long run. Adjust all the gibs so they are tight and smooth. It takes some time to make those adjustments so all the gibs run smooth with zero play, but not so tight that they take too much force to move. My first try at turning didnt go well, because I didn't have the compound gib tight enough. After a few more back and forths snugging the gibs down some more, I was able to get some real nice cuts. Your tools have to be adjusted properly as well. Very small changes in tool geometry, especially height, can have profound effects on cut quality. My machine came with all metal gears that look quite sturdy, but at the time of this writing, I have not used them. My first project is to machine a new arbor for an antique clock, that needs some pretty tight tolerances for press fits and tiny pivots. I've been practicing my technique for getting the placements along the arbor for the various diameters required to make a replacement. What has become obvious is that since there is no scale for moving axially, an add-on Digital Readout is a must for me to get placements at .002" accuracy that I need. This may or may not be a problem for you. I've been playing with the machine for a week or so now and I'm pretty impressed with what it can do. Here's my summary: Pros: Good solid feel. Heavy cast iron base Inexpensive surprisingly good quality. Good clean machined surfaces. Easy to get accurate diameters when turning Cons: I didn't like the placement of the carriage lock. It's right under the compound and difficult to get at. I added my own between the ways. It's definitely not ready for use right out of the box. Plan on spending a good 8 hours to disassemble, clean, reassemble and adjust things. The manual and cutting tools that come with it are useless. If your a home hobbyist or tinkerer this machine is a great one to start on for making some pretty awesome parts.

Now that I've had this lathe for about a year, I can say it has really impressed me. It needs the normal "going through" that all of these Asian imports do (alignments, adjustments, etc). I've filled up a few 5 gallon bucks with shavings, so I've used it quite a bit. It has good power for pretty much anything you can fit in it, but at slow speeds you can still stall it out. No big deal, just don't go jamming the tooling into the piece at slow speeds. The threading feature works pretty dang good, I was really impressed with that. Not changing gears around for different threads is a game changer in the cheap lathe category. If you are on the fence about it, I will say it is worth it if you need small lathe or just want to get into a new hobby. Mine had some small defects in the casting on the slide that didn't affect performance too much and they took care of me. I've made all kinds of things from spacers to bushings to bolts, and it's done a great job with everything I've thrown at it.

I received my first mini lathe yesterday evening. I was very impressed with how it was shipped. Couldn’t wait to open it at my house.A minor issue from shipping. But my son dropped it off at 11:30 am. I was not in a hurry to get it to the shop. Because the last minute I decided to put it on a stand with wheels. So that was what I was trying to get done by the time he made it there.. have to get new screws for mounting. M -6.0 3/4 long. Plate is 1/4 inch thick. Cover on the emergency kill switch is broken. Very minor damage that I can see. Since I know nothing about a lathe I’m going to stop by a guys house this evening to see if he would please come and teach me something about it. I have an old lathe at my shop waiting for me to make some room for it. I seem to keep adding but always find something to get out of the way. One side of the shop is fine. I only get a few hours a day if possible. Girlfriend is dying and 24/7 I’m taking care of her. The shop time is for my alone time. But she’s right there for me to continuously keep an eye on. Will get back whenever I get to use it and get the bugs out only I hope. Excited about it.

You should get this lathe, but just make sure your committed to actually wanting to machine. This is because the lathe has some loose parts and is also a bit out of alignment, !!BUT!! Everything can be adjusted, which is actually a good thing because all veteran machinist recommend newbies such as myself who never owned a lathe before to tear it apart to learn all about your lathe so it’s actually a pro to have to adjust the parts as you learn right off the go how to do it. I’ve watched several YouTube videos to learn about using a lathe and how to adjust its parts etc. Also bolt the lathe down to a desk/table to reduce vibrations as it is not as big as industrial lathes so is more prone to vibrations if not bolted onto something. The machine can cut various materials however tougher(steel etc)materials require thinner cut and softer materials(aluminum, brass etc) can be done in deeper cuts. You also have to learn what speed to to run the machine at with different materials to get the smoothest/cleanest cuts possible so I recommend buying metal tubes/bars for practice to learn(I bought my material from Home Depot). All in all this is a great machine to use and works really well when adjusted correctly! I would recommend for anyone trying to get there hands on their first lathe

Best deal/most advanced table top lathe I've seen in 20 years!!!!! This lathe has DIGITAL GEARS or, as more commonly known, an Electronic Lead Screw (ELS)-- It saved me probably 100 hours of work and $200 parts of converting the lathe to ELS! Makes threading a total breeze! Just dial in the thread pitch, and set the length! The computer handles the left and right motions and synchronizing start of thead with spindle on every pass. You move the cutter in and out when it beeps and advance the cross feed cut each pass and let it know when it can start! Once you have an ELS lathe, you will never go back! Oh, did I mention how wonderfully quiet this lathe is? Both the main (brushless direct drive) motor and (digital) lead motors are very strong and super quiet! There are two quiet timing belts, one for the digital position encoder, and one from the electric lead screw motor to the lead screw. Another result is that this lathe, has only 1/3 of moving parts of a conventional lathe. No high speed motors, no main belts, no clutches, no reduction gears, no motor tensioners, no gear direction changers, etc. Just the sliding carriage needs to be disassembled, cleaned, reassembled when you get it! My only word of caution is that the lathe has a minimum speed of about 55 rpm since it is direct drive with feedback speed control. It will "power through" most stalls at very slow speed after about 1/4 second when the feedback detects the underspeed! (A trade off I'm happy to make for the simplicity/low inertia of direct drive.) The large chuck, however, does add back quite a bit of inertia and a lot of stability! Mine had very little runout. --- I guess size matters! This lathe is also also extra large (1 full Meter (39") between centers, 220mm (8.7") Swing, 38mm (1.49") passthrough!) -- That, alone, makes this lathe the best deal on Amazon! Heck, I even really like the color! Light cream white with orange safety cover! Looks great and modern. (not the ugly gray or green or blue everything else is!) Easy read LCD-- RPM and lead screw position! Best value EVER!

Overall the machine is alright for the price. It does have some backlash issues though, especially in the cross slide, and getting rid of it basically boils down to a balance between having either 1-15mil backlash or hulkish crank difficulty. It is okay once you have found the sweet spot but it takes some tweaking and is never really smooth over a full rotation. Really my biggest complaint is that they sent 12mm cutting tools, which are about 0.7mm short of center on a rod and there is no vertical adjustment. Clearly the compound was designed for 1/2" cutting tools, which means I need to buy some of those, or otherwise buy an attachment with a vertical adjustment. Would be nice if they would exchange just the useless tools for some that fit the machine. Would give an additional star for that. Update: changed to 1 star. there has always been a rattling in the lathe I can't get rid of, and I found the source, shown in one of the videos. The belt drive gear is crooked as a politician and it was made that way. Aside from that, the head stock and tail stock were misaligned in a major way, such that I had to machine the cast iron parts to try to get them to line up. Vevor is the worst tool company I have ever bought from, and they do not have any replacement parts available to fix their awful "precision" tools with, plus the parts that are available from other better companies are not compatible with their junk, so once the thing stops working the way you need it to, that's it you have to either replace it or give up on your jobs. I have bought a lot of things from Vevor now and I can tell you unequivocally that you should avoid this company unless you want to buy something you have to fix before you can use it. Their stuff is cheap in every way, and some of the things I have look like they were purposely manufactured out of alignment. I can't return my tools to them anymore because I have had to take them apart and machine them and replace pieces right out of the box, and fabricate new parts just to get them working well enough to barely slide by on the jobs I bought them to do. Delaying the job to deal with returns and whatever just isn't an option. I am super upset about the lathe, this one is useless for the work I do. Vevor has completely lost my business and I will tell every single person to never ever buy tools from them, or anything else they sell whatsoever. The problems I've had with their products are unforgivable

Köp inte denna svarv! Dåligt tillverkad och slarvigt monterad. Delar sitter löst, inte åtdraget. Dubbdockan är av aluminium och pinolen i den glappar. Mothållen under släden måste schimsas annars fastnar den vid åtdragning. Spindeln går dock bra och den elektroniska matningen är ett plus. Maskinellt är den inte bra tillverkad. Reklamen är missledande.

No se encuentra centrado así que el material se suelta de la mordasa, en relación con el contrapunto ahí es más evidente que tiene una desviación, así que el material que se maquina toma la forma de un cono por la desviación de 4mm que tiene.