Real Milk Paint, Dark Tung Oil for Wood Finishing, Cutting Boards, Outdoor Furniture, Butcher Blocks, Wood Flooring, Food Grade, Waterproof, 32 oz

Be sure you go read Real Milk Paint's directions for use. They are a little hard to find on their website as I don't think it says "Directions", it says something else. I started off wrong from advice from videos and other places on the internet, but I think my butcher block countertop ended up okay. I really like the brown tint of the dark tung oil. This birch counter would have been much too light with plain tung oil. The first two pictures are bare wood. The second is one coat of dark tung oil, before I knew how I was supposed to saturate it, and the last picture is the final. This wood took a lot of "feeding". I'd say I did approximately 8 coats. I bought a pint and I still have a little left. I did mix this at 1:1 with citrus solvent also purchased on Amazon. That helps it absorb into the wood and dry more quickly. This is a very good quality tung oil and it worked very well. The color is exactly what I hoped it would be in the end. I definitely recommend it. I also love that it is food safe and waterproof!

This dark tung oil brought out a dark , rich color from my dining room table. I had to strip sand the table completely due to it being badly scratched up (see the picture with the scratches) and then used this tung oil. The one picture is of the wood before sanding (all scratched up), the other - after sanding, the 3rd is with 2 coats of the dark tung oil, the last picture (with the table on hardwood floor) is after 6 coats. I must say, the pictures do not do justice to the depth of color the Tung oil brings out. I am looking forward to a final coat of wax after 30 days to give it a shine and bring out the beauty of the color. I mixed the dark tung oil with the real milk citrus solvent for all the coats. The citrus is a nice smell. I did it in my garage. I found the best way for me to apply this tung oil is with a foam brush. Not just any foam brush, but the Wooster Brush Foam King Paintbrush. A far superior quality foam brush than those sold at Home Depot. It enabled the finish to go on super smooth. And I could run the foam brush over the finish a few times to wipe down the excess as it dries, without creating unevenness. The foam sponge provides absorption of the excess with less abrasion and removal than a cloth. This was my first time using tung oil. On the last coat, it was completely glossy for a few days. Right or wrong, I left it completely alone and let it dry. Some parts dried fast and others took days, so it looked very uneven in the drying process. Perhaps I was supposed to keep wiping, but I was not comfortable with that. It eventually dried, perhaps not completely smooth to the touch, but I will wax over it. It is very easy to apply. It is better than stain. No blotchiness. No need for wood conditioning. Sanding in between is minimal. I plan to use this dark tung oil on some new walnut butcher block countertops for my kitchen.

This product is a game changer! Be sure to use odorless mineral spirits to thin. I use Klean Strip and it is perfect. I do a 50/50 blend. This pic is on walnut butcher block sanded to 220 grit. It leaves a beautiful warm soft sheen finish. There are about 4 or 5 coats on this counter in our coffee area and it was done February of 2024. I now use it in place of stain and varnish on many projects. Food safe and easy to use, LOVE it.

Clean up is a breeze and the result has incredible depth. It is absolutely NOT slippery in wet or icy weather conditions! It is definitely a labor of love, as one cannot rush working with oil, you just need to 'move with it' in the temperatures you are working in. The finish is very smooth, almost feeling like a wax finish once it oxidizes (hardens). 1st 2 pics...For the sanded (80-grit), lighter colored cedar, it has the following 4 coats applied, and was cut with Turpentine for maximum penetration; Turpentine/Tung Oil ratios: #1.75/25 #2.50/50 #3.25/75 #4.100% Tung Oil. Applied sparingly with a lint free cloth, wiping off the excess in an hour or so depending on the temperature. The gable ends are 100% Tung Oil on rough cut cedar shingles; applied with a 4" china (natural) bristle brush, no wiping. The durability is dependent on sun exposure, traffic, and amount of coats applied. We live in a high humidity environment and applying 5 more coats will last a lifetime, I am sure! The 3rd pic is from a project using pine, 1-50/50 coat, and 1-100% Tung Oil. So far I have used 2 gallons of Tung Oil and 1 gallon of Turpentine, covering approx. 500sq'. That's actually about 1100sq' when I add up all the coats, very economical as well :)

This is high quality great product but if you have a big project like a fence or deck then do yourself a favor and get the pre mixed “half and half” version (it’s the same cost as buying a similar amount of Tung oil and citrus solvent). Buying premix will ensure you have an even coat and coloring across a large project. Otherwise you might end up with some areas that are lighter or darker. The dark Tung oil is a beautiful deep reddish brown color but it’s not as forgiving as working with normal Tung oil so be prepared for the possibility of minor color differences if you mix your own

I first tried a min wax product that was runny and after 3 coats realized it was not up to my standards and sanded off. I ordered this it’s easy to apply, thick and covers well. As I’m using on butcher block in my kitchen, I applied 5 coats in as many days. Now that it has been installed 3 months, I am very pleased with the results.

I’m working with 105 year old wood and this oil made it look so beautiful.

I used to use pure linseed oil until I learned about tung. I've been using real milk tung for 8 years. Before I used Jasco pure and thought it was ok but now realize it was likely polymerized as it would set up very quickly before I had a chance to wipe off the excess. This doesn't do that unless in direct sunlight. And you still have around 10 minutes. And you can walk on a floor immediately after wiping down with no permanent ill effects. So no need for the fast acting polymerized stuff. For exterior fir or redwood I reapply every 6 months. For decking the black pigment included in the dark will eventually darken the wood to near black. So then I switch to the regular pure tung. I think the tung acts as a sacrificial coating which protects the wood from the rain of course but even the uv in the sun which is the amazing part. Unlike spar exterior varnish it won't eventually crack and peel. And mildew doesn't form unless you wait over 6 months. But even then it is hardly noticeable and a new wipe eliminates it. For both int floors trim and counters and ext railings and Decks I thin 50/50 with VM&P Naphtha which is purer and evaporates faster than mineral spirits or turpentine. I don't care for the citrus thinner that they sell since the odor lingers for many days but it works just as well at least on the interior. To my thinking it might attract mildew more than nap or turp if used outside. But I could be wrong.