Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin Coating For Wood Tabletop - 2 Gallon Kit

The shipping box is ok but the hardener bottle was slightly opened and it leaked. As well as when i shook the resin bottle , It felt like, it is only half filled. I am DISSAPPOINTED with the packaging

Entrega a tiempo y satisfecho con el producto, buen material.

مبدئيًا ومن خلال التجربة الأولى لا بأس بالمنتج ، ولكن رائحته مزعجة جدًا جدًا جدًا جدًا .

I have used many makes of epoxy and purchased this Pro Marine 2 Gal kit because of availability and price. The others were not available or way out of price range. I am pleasantly surprised with the quality. It is thick, very clear and great to work with. Also gives a good length of time to work with before set up. When it does start to set you better be finished because there is no time left to do any corrections. From start of set up to the time of a dryer surface (about 3 hrs) is much faster then other brands which is a good thing if working in an area with any bugs or dust. Very happy with this product and will purchase again.

This product worked absolutely PERFECT for my countertop project. I’m beyond thrilled with the results. Everything went on smooth and gave me just enough time to accomplish what I needed to before the product set. Now, if you’ve never worked with Epoxy Resin there are a few VERY important things you need to keep in mind. I’ve worked with a good amount of resin and done a ton of research on this stuff, here’s all my tips and tricks I’ve picked up for doing countertops. Hope they help! 1) Temperature is CRITICAL. Your space MUST be between 75-85 degrees for the first 24 hours or you run the risk of your resin not setting properly. I’ve tested this theory on purpose and it didn’t turn out right. Even if it is miserable working in that temperature, you won’t regret it when your project turns out right. Scraping resin off your project because you decided to not do this, is literally the worst thing. Just picture runny, sticky, glue like bubblegum that you are trying to get off something. And water DOES NOT WORK for cleanup. Just FYI. Rubbing alcohol gets it off your skin pretty good. But not all of it. 2) Mixing the product for the right amount of time AND dumping it and remixing in a second container is very important. Don’t skip this step. It’s annoying and seems unnecessarily, but really you need to just do it. Yes, even if you’re using an electric mixer, which, side note, generates a lot of bubbles! So if you’re going for glass smooth, stick to a paint mixing stick. Constantly scrape the sides and bottom of your bucket to make sure you’re not leaving any unmixed product. Also, it’s best not to use a mixing container that has corners, stick to a bucket or something that is circular and does not have any wax coating on it. 3) Pouring more is better than pouring less, if you don’t pour enough you’re trying to drag the Epoxy across a surface and it won’t cover evenly. 4) Using a foam roller is great to help spread the Epoxy evenly, but it will absorb lots of resin. Which is good if you are doing a lip or edge of your countertops. You can get away with it well enough. Or I use a plastic paint scraper. That works pretty well too! 5) With this product I didn’t need to use a torch or heat gun very much because I didn’t have many bubbles. I personally like to use a heat gun opposed to a blowtorch because I feel like the heat gun doesn’t get as hot as the blowtorch but it pops the bubbles well enough and you don’t run the risk of scorching your Epoxy as much. 6) If you do decide to mix paint into your resin, make sure it’s Acrylic. Or you can use spray paint. That works well with resin. If you do decide to use any kind of metallic paint, don’t leave it sitting in the bucket for too long. For whatever reason, I left a bucket of resin with metallic spray paint mixed in sitting for a little too long and it got WAY too hot and bubbled up and started melting my bucket... so just a heads up about that. Don’t leave your resin sitting in a small container for too long. 7) Prep your surface well. My countertops had laminate on top so I sanded that well and applied a primer coat (just found a water based paint from Lowe’s.) let that dry completely and it worked great. I purchased two 2 gallon kits and it did a base coat, a second coat, and a final flood (top) coat, (3 coats total.) My countertops are approximately 38 square feet and I just barely had enough. If you’re not experienced with using Epoxy resin, I’d say you should probably get a little extra just to be safe. Whew!! Hope all that helps someone out there! Good luck!

The epoxy worked well for my painted table top project. After letting the acrylic paint cure, I used packing tape lined 1x4 boards as a mold, secured with screws and silicone glue to make sure any gaps were sealed. Sanding between two 1/8th deep pours, it distributed very easily and set crystal clear. It separated from mold easily, and didn’t chip unexpectedly when I was sanding down the edges.