Insulating Film for Windows, Transparent Glazing Film 4.5m2 (3m x 1.5m)

Summary: The Insulating Film for Windows is a practical and efficient product that significantly aids in maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature. It's a great solution for those seeking to reduce energy costs and create a more sustainable living environment. Positive Aspects: 1. The transparent glazing film is easy to install. The instructions are clear and the process is straightforward, even for those who aren't particularly handy. 2. Once installed, the film is virtually invisible. It doesn't obstruct the view or alter the appearance of the windows. 3. The product is highly effective in insulating the windows, noticeably reducing drafts and helping to maintain a consistent indoor temperature. 4. The size of the film (3m x 1.5m) is generous and can cover a large window or be cut to fit multiple smaller windows. 5. The film is durable and holds up well over time, even in harsh weather conditions. Areas for Improvement: 1. The adhesive used to secure the film could be stronger. In some cases, it may require additional tape or adhesive to ensure a secure fit. 2. While the film is generally easy to install, it can be a bit tricky to get it perfectly smooth and free of wrinkles or bubbles. 3. The film could benefit from being a bit thicker. While it's effective as is, a thicker film might provide even better insulation. Overall, the Insulating Film for Windows is a valuable tool for energy conservation and comfort. With a few minor improvements, it could be even better.

I purchased this as my flat gets very cold in the Winter and I wanted to take any steps I could to prevent heat loss after I'd gone to the effort of sealing around the windows. I thought I'd try this as a trapped layer of air is how coats, etc, work and it's cheap enough to take the gamble. Firstly, installing it is not fun. Whatever your method, and I tried a few, it's quite long winded, fiddly, easy to mess it up, and difficult to get perfect. That being said, it is possible if you take your time. Once the film is on, a hairdryer makes short work of any wrinkles, but some wrinkles did begin to reappear after a couple of days due to the adhesive tape moving. I used a hairdryer again and it solved the problem. I can't tell for sure whether the film makes a significant difference to heat retention, but it has entirely stopped condensation forming on my balcony French doors so it must be doing something. My main piece of advice would be to throughly clean your windows before installation. I thought I had until the sun shone through the following day and there were marks everywhere. Needless to say, I won't be going through the process of reinstalling the film, thankfully the marks are only visible in direct sunlight. This issue was my fault a could have been avoided! Whether the film make a noticeable difference to my heating bill this Winter is yet to be seen, but it's nearly November and I'm yet to put the heating on so I do have high hopes.

Comment on DIY window film I bought this film primarily to reduce the amount of condensation on our single glazed bathroom window. I read a number of the reviews and did the following preparations. 1. Thoroughly clean and dry the window glass and frame with soapy water using a cloth and chamois leather. 2. Wipe down the frame where the double sided tape is to go with either white spirit or methylated spirit. 3. Buy a good brand of 25mm wide double sided tape (the one that comes with the film is only 12mm wide). You can buy a 33m role for about £5. Use this on the window frame. 4. Cut the polythene film a little bit bigger than needed and peel off the top frame and part of the two side frames. Stretch the film fairly taught and try to avoid any creases. Don't worry too much if you do get a few creases or wrinkles. 5. Once the four edges are stuck well, use a hair dryer on its hottest setting to shrink the film and get rid of any slackness. Done properly the film will sound like a drum. I have bought 2 more packs of this film to double glaze 6 other Victorian wooden framed single glazed sash windows about 85cm X 170cm. Every one went really well and this will hopefully reduce our energy bills.

I used this on three windows and a glazed door in my sunroom. It can take a while to meticulously position the tape around your windows (but not as long as it takes to try and peel the backing off!) and you need to obviously spend a little time cutting each section of film to roughly the correct size (allowing for a little spare around each side). So it's not a quick job and you'll need a little bit of patience - not really a job to be done if you're in a hurry. The best part is using the hairdryer to smooth out the wrinkles and creases and, initially, it worked and looked really well. When I say initially, I mean for the first few hours. Then, the film started to peel off the double-sided tape! Believe me when I say that after making the effort and spending valuable time to be as thorough as possible, this is REALLY annoying. Having looked at previous reviews, it would appear that a lot of people have experienced the same problem - the adhesive tape simply isn't good enough! I didn't want to give up though, so, having bought far too much film for what I needed, I looked at buying some better quality double-sided tape to use with film I had leftover. And here lies the problem (I think)! Take a look at the reviews for double-sided tape and you'll notice that a lot of people complain that double-sided tape (from a variety of brands) isn't very good on vertical surfaces for holding things in place. Most complaints are from people who are trying to stick heavy pictures, tiles and mirrors to their walls. And this is true with secondary glazing. There is just too much "pull" from the film for the tape to handle. I'm sure there are engineers out there who could work out what the load is per cm² but I can guess that it must be quite a lot. Another interesting thing i noticed is that one particular brand mentioned that the adhesion is stronger after 24 hours. Bearing this in mind, and determined to try and make it work, I decided to have another go and risk using the same double-sided tape. This time, after fixing the film to the taped window frame I left it alone and didn't use the hairdryer until the next day. Then I heated the film with the dryer just enough to take out the creases/ripples - I tried to resist giving it any extra seconds of heat. This ensured, I hoped, that the strain on the double-sided tape was as minimal as possible (I have no idea how much this film can shrink). So far so good with this method - but it's only been a couple of days. I have a feeling that the quality of the tape is still an issue. It just doesn't feel sticky enough. Perhaps this is intentional, because it allows a certain amount of sticking, peeling and re-sticking when positioning the film. And this is the next issue with this product. It is really difficult to affix the film without creating some creases where it fixes to the tape. The instructions suggest you fit it from top to bottom which means that it hangs down infront of the tape and sticks to it while you're trying to position it. No problem- just peel it off enough to reposition it. But this, in itself is difficult, takes a bit of practice and, risks pulling the tape of the frame (I was also worried that it might affect the adhesive qualities of the tape). The temptation is to leave it as it is and try to press the crease out. DON'T DO THIS!!! It may look like it has sealed but I have noticed that it creates a tiny gap in the seal which compromises the film in that area. It is much easier to start from the BOTTOM of the window and work your way up. As long as you're accurate with the initial positioning (if you're not then you'll obviously risk fixing the film out of square) then this seems to be the easiest way to do it. I would recommend cutting the film at least three inches/10cm oversize. This will give you something to hold onto as you position it along the edges. Try to pull it as firmly as you dare as you work upwards and outwards. If there is too much slack I have noticed that this can create more creases where the film fixes to the tape. My conclusion though, is that the product isn't really good at what it's designed to do, simply because the tape isn't good enough. But, having never used another product, I can't say if it's worse than anything else you might be able to buy. If you can get hold of some really good double-sided tape, then I would try that - it MIGHT make a difference. But, having looked myself, the price of tape is ridiculous. Either way, good luck! *I will update this review over the coming hours/days/weeks. Update 18th March: I believe that leaving the DS tape to bond with each surface for 24 hours, along with ensuring that you heat the film as little as you can, ensures that this product works quite well. The next tip I would give is to ensure that you have ZERO creases in the film where it is fixed with DS tape (easier said than done to be honest but it's really important that you don't do this): it might appear to be fixed but what you've created is a miniscule weak spot for the air to get in and also for the film to try and peel away. On the whole, if you're really careful, and spend lots of time doing it properly, it works well. I just don't know if it's going to suit everybody's abilities or levels of patience!

I've used this kind of plastic film for windows before - but I've NEVER found it not to work, in the way this didn't work! I did all the right things (just as I've done before on other windows in the past) and finally, after a lot of fiddly adjusting, got to the point where I could use the hairdryer. All went well at first, and I got a taut finish. A few hours later the plastic was hanging down in saggy folds, as if I hadn't used the hairdryer at all! Got the hairdryer out again, went over it all again, good taut finish - but some time later, same result! Loose, saggy, and USELESS!!! I really don't know why this didn't work, when similar plastic film has worked perfectly well in the past. The double sided tape doesn't adhere properly, either; so eventually I stuck white gaffer tape all round the edges, to try and keep the plastic in place; it didn't! I'm going to have to strip it all off again, removing much of the paint from around the window, too, I expect. AVOID - this really, really doesn't work. I wish I'd read the critical reviews more carefully, but having used insulating film before, I thought those reviews were from people who didn't know how to apply it. My sincere apologies, to them. And shame on you, manufacturers of such a faulty product.

Like others, I bought this as part of a project to reduce condensation in my conservatory. Each window took approx 15 mins; and I'm a middle aged woman with little patience these days - and I did it on my own. Give everything a really good clean - windows and frames - and work in a warm room. I think this is critical for the tape to adhere to the frame. Tape all 4 sides of the frame, leaving the protective film on the sides and bottom. Cutting the film is straightforward - keep the film folded when you cut it as it's easier to manage. With the film fairly taught, stick the top edge to the tape. It'll take a certain amount of repositioning so you can check it's straight and crease free. Use one arm to hold the film up as you remove the protective tape from each side. Hold each bottom corner of the film so it's fairly taught as you start to lay it flat to the tape. Stick the bottom corners down and the sides will start to stick themselves - now is your time to work from the top down smoothing the film as you go. Finally, remove the bottom tape and pull down on the film as you stick it down. No need for the hair dryer in my photo, I was happy with the finish with very few visible creases. Tape tip: cut the tape at an angle, bend the sharpest corner over and it'll seperate easier. Time will tell if it works of course!

It is now the second year I'm putting up this film, the 4th time to mount it (3 windows last year, redoing one of the windows this year), and it seems that each time I'm learning something new about what works and what doesn't. We live in a flat in a converted Victorian building, with quite large (about 2.4 x 1.2m) and fairly draughty windows in spite of them being double-glazed -- the wooden sashes are getting a bit worn out and leaky. Also, the windows have an arch at the top, so the top frame is curved rather than straight. This means that I have to attach the sticky tape in short cut segments -- rather than one continuous strip -- at the top to span the arch. So, lessons I've learned: 1. Particularly for large windows (but maybe not exclusively), it helps to put TWO parallel strips of tape rather than just one on the frame, if space allows, so that the film attaches on double the width of sticky tape. Wider tape = better adhesion! Also, make sure the frame is properly degreased, dust-free and dry, and push hard on the tape (when first sticking it on the frame) and then on the film against the tape to remove any trapped air bubbles, etc. I just run my thumb up and down the length of the strip to ensure it all makes good contact. 2. Once the sticky tape is on the frame, don't peel off the backside strip until you're ready to put up the film, to prevent dust from getting on the sticky part in the meantime. Dust is your enemy on this one! 3. On my large-size windows the technique that seems to be most successful to get the film properly aligned (wrinkle-free) on the frame is to attach first the top-centre of the film, then the bottom centre (make sure it's aligned with the top), then stretch the film left and right and attach the middle sections of the film on the sides of the frame. Do not push too hard on the film against the tape at this stage, this is just to make sure you got the position right. Then, once you're sure the film is straight (doesn't kink), stretch the film towards the corners of the frame and stick these last. So kinda go centre-to-corners. Make sure the film attaches without major wrinkles, those will become failure points once you heat it up to stretch it later! 4. Once the film is in the right position, I make sure it's properly stuck to the tape along the whole length. This bit is super-important, as one weak point is sufficient to cause the whole thing to come loose. 5. Heat the film up with a blow-dryer. Carefully! The heating stretches the film and pulls it against the sticky tape, so don't overdo it! You want it stretched, but not so much as to peel it off the tape! Remember, the film is not mechanically clamped on the frame, it's only stuck with glue, and that's what will give way first. 6. I typically leave it as is overnight to make sure it doesn't start peeling off (no instances lately, but... once bitten, twice shy) before I cut off the excess film, so that if it does start to peel off I still have enough film to the side to reattach it. For what it's worth, my first attempt at doing this mostly failed (the film peeled off in one corner of the window and I had to use scotch tape to stick it back on the frame... ugly!), while my latest attempt is the best by far. So it can work, but it requires a bit of skill.

I had condensation on my windows every single morning. I was sceptical at first but I tested this on a window while I left the other one plain. The one with this film had 99% less condensation than the other one and now that both windows have it, condensation is no longer a problem. The double sided tape is a bit bad, just use your own instead.

Presa per "coibentare" una porta finestrata. Una volta pulita la finestra, mi sono messo all'opera e ho applicato il nastro biadesivo incluso nella confezione sul telaio. Tolto poi il lato coprente la colla tutto intorno al vetro e tagliato il pezzo di pellicola della lunghezza giusta. La posa meglio se fatta in due, così da tenere la pellicola un pò tesa. Attaccata bene alla colla del telaio e passato il phon caldo lungo tutta la superficie, si tende il tutto e risulta perfetta. Potete poi tagliare l'eccesso di pellicola dai bordi con un taglierino o anche delle forbicine. In giornata con fuori 13 gradi il vetro "nudo" è freddo, mentre quello coperto da pellicola risulta tiepido, indice che la camera d'aria che si crea funziona perfettamente. Consigliato!

Montaggio semplice e pensione perfetta una volta passato il phon, sembra quasi un vetro, non isola come un vero vetro ma se cercate di guadagnare qualche grado in una stanza che ha vetri singoli funziona