Wolverine 8mm & Super 8 Reels to Digital MovieMaker Pro Film Digitizer, Film Scanner, 8mm Film Scanner, Black (MM100PRO)

This is a review for the Wolverine Pro 8mm/Super 8mm film scanner. A lot has been written by others about the product. A couple of people did a very good job listing many of its pros and cons. But some of the cons and suggestions to remedy are a little unreasonable. It is important to remember this is a consumer quality product meant to let the average person digitize movie film, not a commercial quality product that is used in labs. So yes, the product could be improved, but that would also mean increasing the price, and at approximately $400 I think the price is right for the average person wanting to transfer old home movies, or hobbyist that digitizes movies for fun or artistic endeavors. For me, I had a bunch of old movies I wanted to digitize. I originally thought about having them done professionally by a lab. But considering the amount of films I had, and the cost to have them done commercially, it made more sense to buy this unit than to spend a thousand dollars or more to have it done by a lab. I did a lot of research and was worried by comments I read such as...it takes forever to do a film, you need to babysit the machine because it can get stuck, it splits film, etc. But I decided to take the plunge anyway. And I am glad I did! Like I said earlier, this is a consumer level quality machine, but it is packed with enough features to allow you to make nice transfers of you films. You can tweak a number of items such as sharpness, exposure, and frame adjustment. It took me a while to find an ideal set of settings for my films, but once I did, I rarely had to readjust. And when you are done, you can always make changes and enhance your copies in software. I use VSDC Free Video Editing Software, and it does a terrific job. It allows me to add music, and voice overs, etc. turning my old silent movies into talkies. The types of movies I am transferring are old 8mm home movies from the 1950s. Typical family films that were spliced together onto 5 and 7 inch reels. I am also transferring Super 8mm films I made in the 1970s as a hobbiest...stop action movies, mini silent films, and travelog movies I made, which had accompanying sound on reel-to-reel tape (which would always fall out of sync after about ten minutes). In fact, since the Wolverine does not come with anything other than a 4-3/4 inch take-up reel, I use an old 7 inch tape recorder reel as a take-up reel for my larger movies. My films have a lot of splices. Some were nice and neatly done, but others were horrible-thick and wide. In fact, some of the splices were done with scotch tape many years ago. Considering the age of the films, amount of splices and the quality of the splices, my films have been going through the unit with very little problems. As I write this, the unit is next to me transferring a film I shot in 1978. It is on a 7 inch reel, and has been running for about three hours (it is nearly done). If I were to guess, it has at least a hundred splice points if not more, and it hung only three time during the transfer...one time because the splice was too wide (overlapped both sides of the film), and the other splices were very thick (I have a feeling those were done with scotch tape). Other than that, I had no problems. I had some other films that did jump, and went out of alignment, but that was due to the film, not the unit. The film's sprocket holes were ripped and/or stretched from years of play and abuse in a variety of old projectors. This unit is not perfect, but it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. And it certainly isn't as bad as others may lead you to believe. If you are like me, and have a lot of movies you want to digitize and post online for family and/or friends to see on Youtube (hidden link only they will know about) this will do the job. In fact, if you don't want to use post production software, Youtube has tools you can use to add sound and enhance you transfer.

This thing is fantastic. The "Movie Maker Pro" works as flawlessly as I would expect any similar product this affordable. I was going to take my old films to a local converting store-counter, when I realized I couldn't order and prioritize the reels and the content to my preference, and would spend a small fortune doing them all, and I have no way to review them. The "MMP" lets you review in the viewing screen as the recording is being done; letting you stop and adjust frame size and position when needed. It can hang-up on splices (extra thickness on film) and this should be expected in a close-tolerance process. Sometimes you can muscle the film through with a pull by hand without stopping the recording; and you do need a software editing program like Windows Movie Maker which came with my Dell PC, if anything at all goes wrong and you have to put two or more segments of movies "back together again;" because MMP will start a new recording file each time you stop and restart recording. Besides, sometimes there are lengths of unexposed or underexposed film you want to edit out to make the film better. The fact it increments the recording/file numbers is a GOOD thing, because it eliminates later confusion about sequencing and possibility of same file no.'s overwriting on your computer, losing a good predecessor file, and having to scan over again, or worse, not realizing it until much later... where did it go? It can increment files to 9,999. I disagree with an earlier reviewer that the take-up reel motor should be "stronger," in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it has a belt or slip-clutch system to NOT tear apart your precious old films. The take-up reel does NOT pull your film through; it merely takes up the slack, if any, and winds the scanned film onto a temporary reel until you want to rewind onto your storage reel. Rather, the sprockets in the scanning bed area turn and move the film through the scanner without need for a take-up reel at all. It would be nice to have a higher megapixel recording camera/chip, but this one is adequate and affordable. I DO agree with earlier reviews that said the guide posts should rotate freely on bearings, again, a cost issue; and that bypassing several of these posts can help with more continuous flow of the film... I do bypass several. Experimentation will guide you. Keep the scan bed clean with the provided brush... the old films do deposit dust. How considerate of Wolverine to include the little air brush. My tips: if the reels do rub on the backing arm/surface you can pull them slightly outward or add some scotch tape to the backing to protect it (some reels have become crooked and wobble); it's very helpful to move the film freely in the bed to where you want it, as to start or restart a recording by clicking open the bed's hold-down cover, and the film will then slide while still under the three white tabs; I stopped recording the white leader tape, blank of images, and instead moved the film as described above to the first few frames of actual image; then I do the frame adjust command next, and use the easy X,Y,W axis provided on-screen to center my frames; only then do I enter record mode, and adjustment is usually right-on. Do "baby-sit" your valuable old films to watch for hang-ups and frame out-of-centering, this is the fault of the film's worn and spliced condition, not of the MMP. You'll enjoy the frame by frame viewing during the process and see many things in your film that you won't notice at ten-times the playback speed later (reading advertising on Christmas gift box-lids, scanning the old furniture in your childhood home, etc.); lastly, I don't thread the leader or sometimes leader-less films directly onto the take-up reel at the beginning, rather I start at frame 1-4, do the frame-adjust, start recording, and as the scanned film lengthens I then insert it into the take-up wheel's slot, hand-wind the wheel off-spindle to almost caught-up with the scanned slack film and only then press the wheel onto the rotating take-up shaft; this allows all but the first 1-4 frames to be scanned and avoids leader/splice hang-up at the very start; the more you eliminate hand-pulling hung up film through, the less likely to break it or the splices. You acquire a skill of gently pressing the reel onto the rotating shaft until the lock-in fin on the shaft inserts into the reel's fin-slot and let your hands rotate with the counter-clockwise movement so stress on the motor or clutch is minimal... this is less resistance than a hung-up film that stops take-up completely until powered off or hand-pulled through the bed. You can either do that, or resign to not scanning the length of film you thread into the mounted reel; or else always use and replace missing leader. When an old film breaks during scanning, and a few did, I don't worry about splicing or adding leader, I simply wind the broken end on top of the already taken-up film on the right-side reel, when the newly scanned section becomes long enough to give it several wraps over the reel to where it will not slip, but will continue winding. I don't expect to ever have to get these old films out of storage to work with again, but can deal with breaks later if I decide to re-scan in the future. I was thrilled to see for the first time my parents' wedding movie, over 71 years-old color film, and a few of the reels are up to 78 years old. The internet said films can last "several decades," imagine color film over seven decades old!

OK. Here’s the lowdown on the Wolverine Pro 8mm Super8 film scanner. Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF) It does what it says it will do. And it does it pretty well That said, you need to set expectations accordingly. Expectations: the digitizer takes a photo of every frame of film. It takes time, a lot of time. The small 3 inch reels will take an hour plus and it goes up from there. If you’re gonna do a 7 inch reel, do it on a rainy day when you’re gonna be around the house 4-6 hours or so. You don’t have to sit there with it for the whole six hours, but you should check on it every half hour or so and I would suggest, stop the recording every each time and start a new file. If you need to leave the house in the middle of recording just hit the stop/start button to stop it, go run your errand, then come back and hit the stop/start button to start a new file. Stopping and starting is a very easy process and will make editing it with a film editor much easier. So, the positive. If you’re working with film that has been fairly well taken care of, is not brittle, and still has all the color, your digital video is going to be good. The control interface is a bit antiquated but easy to get the hang of. It works equally as well with 8mm and Super8, I have both. The less-than-positive. Loading the film is a little tricky. You need a well lit workspace and take your time. The spindles the reels turn on are plastic. Be gentle with the machine. The screen is kinda small, be nice if it were bigger. Things to know. Some complain of the film getting stuck. It happens, mostly on splices, but hasn’t happened to me very often and most of my films have multiple splices. That’s why you check on it every 30 minutes or so. Minimize the do-over. Always adjust your frame position before recording and run Preview. Have a can of air to clean dust off of the upper and lower light windows. You will have better outcomes if you have an editing program. There are some free ones out there, there are some cheap ones out there, and there are some expensive ones out there. I have a lot of films to digitize so I went with a higher grade editor, Adobe Premier Pro. The main reason I got it is one of my films is not in great shape and when it was digitized, there was a lot of jitter and jerkiness and it needed to be stabilized. Premier Pro had the best stabilizer I could afford. It will also help stitch multiple files together, cut out sections you may not want, and adjust any color problems you may have.

These are my initial thoughts on the Wolverine Digital MovieMaker Pro. I've only had it for 1 day and run about 4 movies through it, so my opinion (and review) may change over time. ***Update*** See bottom for an updated review. Set up was fairly easy. The things you need to know are: The cord is short (4 ft), you'll need an extension cord unless you're within very close to an outlet. The converter must have a memory card inserted to power on. I ordered the SanDisk 32G SD card as recommended when I bought the converter. The converter nor my PC would recognize this card. There were a number of reviews with the same issue. I'd say avoid that card. Fortunately, I had another spare card I was able to use. When mounting the film, sprocket holes should be on the inside away from you. Film will loop from under the reel. You'll need to utilize the RED reel adapter on the left side when recording Super 8. When rewinding, you'll put the GRAY adapter on the right side. The film must go under the 3 tabs under the flap door. If you don't get the film under all of them, the film will jump when reccording. If you have old eyes like mine, it's difficult to see if you have the film under the tabs. If you have trouble handling small parts, it will be difficult to get the film under those tabs (see photo). Look closely, because it may look like it's under that back tab when it isn't (if the film is aligned just right, you can see the tab through a sprocket hole giving this illusion). Through the menu, you can adjust the frame window ("Frame Adj": how much of the film frame is recorded and the alignment within the window), the "Sharpness", "Exposure" and a few others you aren't likely to use. Using "Frame Adj" you can maximize the amount of the film frame that gets recorded..to a certain extent. I saw comments about being able to capture the full frame including sprocket holes which allows you to capture the full film image that gets cropped when showing through traditional projectors. The only way to accomplish this is if you also record the upper and lower portion of the previous and post frames (see photo). As for "Sharpness", just go with "Low". Default is "Medium" and even that is too grainy for me. I haven't had a need to adjust the "Exposure" yet, but when I do, I'll update. It's important to note that in order to change these settings, you should be on a good sample exposure of the film so you can make decisions based on the way it will look. Unfortunately, this means locking yourself into that film position (more on that later). There is a setting under the menu for rewind. You have to swap the reels (use the GRAY adapter on the right side) Use the Rewind setting, not the normal Record setting, otherwise you end up with a recording of white light and it's slower. So far, I've only converted 3-inch reels. When I record my larger reels, I won't be using the converter rewind, but more likely a regular projector or editor as it would take too long and might be too much wear on the converter motor. As mentioned earlier, when making adjustments to frame, you'll need to be on a good sample of the film so you can see what position the frame is in. Unfortunately, once you've put the film into those 3 tabs, it's pretty much impossible to pull it back out without risking damaging the film. There's no provided way to rewind to the opposite side as that reel is free spinning (no motor) and you don't want to risk damaging the right side reel motor by pulling it the opposite direction. The only way I've been able to re-spool the film without committing to running all the way through is to remove the reel from the right side and manually rewind the left side, pulling the film through the gate (and clips). Overall, so far I'm satisified, but not blown away. I'll add more updates as my experience with the converter increases. ***Updated Review*** Now that I've had this a converter for a couple weeks and ran a variety of films both Super 8 and 8mm through it, I feel the need to update my previous review. I've increased my overall rating from 4 to 5 stars and changed my "Headline". I've gotten over the things I previously knocked it for. Once you use it for a few films, you start to get a feel for it. I will stick by my recommendation to find a setting you like and just stick with it. I still recommend staying with the lowest setting for "Sharpness". I don't see a difference with the various "Exposure" settings and just leave it at 0. I've reconverted some family home movies that were previously done professionally and the quality of the Wolverine converter is far past the professional quality. I've included a few photos for comparison. The professional footage is on the left, Wolverine on the right. You'll see the clarity, contrast, color and brightness are far better with the Wolverine conversion. I'm seeing details in my family's home movies I've never seen before including from regular projection. Overall, I'd say I'm very impressed and satisified, just don't expect miracles. 8mm film is extremely small. You're never going to get hi-def images, but compared to a past professional transfer I had done, it's far superior.

I purchased this Film digitizer last week and put it to work right away. But first, I had viewed several reviews on this digitizer on Youtube, before I bought it. However, I wasn't convinced on some of the negative things they said, especially one where the reviewers hesitated to recommend it but recommended it anyway. That made me suspicious of their opinion. So, I dicided to buy it anyway and the results were better than I expected, after watching thos reviews, in my opinion. I was especially amazed at the clarity on some of the videos, considering their 49 years old. You can see in the picture of the "Changing of the guard" at the tomb of the unknown soldier and the Washington monument. I went to DC twice, when I was in 10th and 11th grade. Anyway, I started with a 3" reel and it took about 1/2 an hour or so. The only problem I had was broken sprocket holes in the first 3 or 4 frames of the reel, but after that it went through the reel none stop. Next I did a 7' reel, which I have several and same thing, broken sproket holes every now and then. The only thing that happens is, you stop the recording, adjust the film and record again. It creates several clips which you can stitch together with a free app. I used Microsoft Photo. It comes with Windows 10 and has a feature to stitch videos. You can find a vidwo on Youtube on how to do this. Anyway, I managed to digitize an entire 7" reel in about 8 hours or so. This was one of the cons that the Youtube reviewers had on this digitizer, that I'm glad I didn't take too seriously. They mentioned that it couldn't handle 7" reels, that the arm would fall down or that the film would unravel or stall. Not true at all. The arm is very sturdy and considering that my reels are fully loaded to the edge of the reel, I had no problem whatsoever. I did two reels, one per day. The only thing I recommend is that for 7" reels, buy a new empty reel to use, because the 5" reel that's included won't hold all the video. Fortunately, I still have the GAF movie projector (still works) I used to use with the videos and used the 7" empty reel it has. I used the grey adapter to fit the empty reel and it worked fine. I also used my GAF projector to rewind the videos quickly. The frame adjustment is a matter of how you want the videos to come out. For my videos, I wanted to get as much of the sides as possible, so I adjusted it that way, even if the top and bottom showed a video border. I didn't want the videos to be shortened width wise. It doesn't really matter to me, that's how I chose to have them, instead of zooming the frame too much, to make them disappear. So, bottom line is that this digitizer works very well and is very easy to work with. The most important part to me was to preserve my videos and show as much of the scenes as possible and the clarity. I'll be playing around with the frame adjustment on the rest of the videos I have left to digitize, but it's not really a big deal to me. It's not a problem with the digitizer, it's just a matter of choice how you want the end result. BTW, I didn't adjust the exposure or colors or any thing else, at all. What you see in the examples is from the video itself. Hope this helps.

I'm the type of person who always looks at the 1-star reviews first to get the real story on a product--so although I would actually rate this digitizer at 4 or 5 stars, I've hidden my review here for those of you who are like me and want to know a legit assessment of this product. I purchased a similar product for $100 less, that only took 5" reels, and after only digitizing six 3" reels, it bellied up. This Wolverine unit offered same day delivery, so I was elated because I had rented a hand rewind and was under a deadline. I've digitized 63 8mm reels ranging from 3" to 7" so far of 50-year-old film. Here is the process I would recommend: - Rent or buy a hand crank rewind. It is necessary to initially clean the film before digitizing and is a faster method of rewinding the film. - Use a product called Film Renew with lint-free cotton cleaning pads (a cut-up t-shirt into 3"x3" squares will work too--professional pads are really expensive), to clean the film before processing. Film Renew is a solvent, so don't breath too much! lol It does a good job of cleaning, as well as conditioning the film. The downside is that it also dissolves adhesive, so any tape splices you may have, especially if they're older, will fail, either during the cleaning or in the machine when digitizing. - For failed spices, I used scotch tape and made it work. If I had to do it over again, I would have purchased a splice box to ensure the sprocket holes aligned properly (this will ensure the film doesn't hang up when digitizing), and either pre-made spice tape, or film glue. The film glue might work better as the tape splice sometimes hangs up due to a slight increase in the width of the film at the splice since I wrap the tape around the non-sprocket-hole end. My film had a few glued spices, and they never failed. - I made one pass with the Film Renew, and then a rewind pass with a clean, dry pad to remove excess solvent, which actually cleaned the film both ways. I folded the 3" pads down to a quarter square and then soaked it almost to the point of dripping with Film Renew before folding it around the film to clean. I would continually check the pad, maybe every 10ft. to see if it was getting dirty, then used a clean fold to continue. I noticed that not only dirt and grime came off the film, but sometimes color too, as I'm guessing oxidation occurred. This will, of course, affect the brightness of colors with the finished product, but I'm figuring I can enhance the color in Premiere when I get to post production--and I'd much rather have it clean to get the best image I can up front. - After letting the film sit out and "breath" (either a few hours, or maybe overnight would be better) so the remaining fumes dissipated, I loaded the film to the digitizer. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: You must use the Frame Adjust feature to properly align each reel. I noticed what was aligned to and what I ended up with was a few stops off. In other words, for my unit, the alignment was a little high and to the right. What I would suggest is to align it, digitize for 5 or 10 seconds, then look at what was digitized. If the alignment is off, you can easily make the necessary adjustments before digitizing the entire reel, and if you still need that test clip, you can add it in post, or pull the film back and re-digitize. - The other custom settings I used were EXPOSURE: -.5 to -1, SHARPNESS: High - Most failed spices continued to digitize, and if I wasn't paying attention, a big pile of film ended up on the floor! No worries though; I fixed the splice on the fly making sure a twist hadn't happened in the film, then with the machine still running, put the take-up reel back on which wound the film up nicely. - ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, AND TOOK ME A WHILE TO FIGURE OUT: I started noticing on some of the digitized clips, a brown spot appeared, like someone had put their fingerprint on the lens. Thinking this was something I had done, with much effort, I cleaned the digitizer camera lens with Windex and a modified Q-tip. I then thought maybe it was on the original film, but no. I finally figured out that the film was rubbing off on the illumination plate. Don't know if it was due to the film not being totally dry or what, but I got in the habit of not only cleaning the digitizing tray with compressed air, but also with Windex and a Q-tip, especially the light plate. That fixed it! - The first competitor unit I'd purchased made binding noises, and I saw a post about adding lubricant which worked well until it died. So I decided to add a little WD-40 gel to the sprocket opening of this unit as well. It purrs like a kitten, HOWEVER, when I added a little more, I started experiencing the same problems with the new unit--namely when it turned on, it would just start running the film without recording. Apparently, there are some electronic connections that can get screwed up if you add too much lubricant, so be careful! I know we can all get "lemons" at times, but I'm really happy with my unit, and it is performing as advertised. It is MUCH cheaper than paying someone else to do it and the quality is very good (I know there's another post where the purchaser thought it wasn't very good quality, but if you look closely, the image he provides shows it's due to the original footage, not the performance of the machine. I would suggest getting a progam plug-in like Neat Video to clean up any graininess, film scratches, etc.). One note on the counter--the product is warranted for 1 year or 200 reels digitized. The counter counts how many times the process is started, NOT how many reels are digitized. I've done 63 reels, BUT the counter says 162 because of all the stops and starts. This was mainly due to failed spices. If you plan on starting the unit and walking away for the up to 3 or 4 hours it takes to digitize a 7" reel, unless you want to come back to a pile of film on the floor, or only 25% of your reel getting digitized before it hung up, then FIX ALL THE SPLICES BEFORE YOU START. UNEXPECTED, PLEASANT SURPRISES: At the end of the reel, the unit will eventually stop on its own, I guess it has a sensor that when the frame doesn't change, it will stop, HOWEVER, I've also noticed that if the film is very dark or too light, it will trip the sensor too. No worries, you just have to start it back up again. Also, when your SD card gets full, the unit will stop automatically. One last bit of advice: The film will drift slightly over time, but not by much. If you don't want to see frame lines come into view, I would suggest on the Frame Adjust feature, moving the W function (zooms in or out) to zoom in 1 or 2 more stops--it cuts a little bit of the picture, but it gives the frame a little wiggle room too. Another nice feature is that you can zoom out all the way and digitize the entire frame with sprocket holes, which is a cool effect. What you could also do in post is use a black framed matte to ensure you're seeing as much of the frame as possible. Good luck! One thing I learned is that taking pictures of people really is the only thing that holds up over time. I have a pile of footage on scenery and landscape that were taken by my father and grandfather, and with the exception of seeing downtown Las Vegas back in the day, or a brief clip of a house I used to live in as a boy, the real value is seeing friends and family in their moments in time (especially those who are no longer with us--but remember, Jesus, the ONLY savior of all, promises to those that confess/admit their sins and believe and have put their trust in him for their salvation, that we will see fellow believers again in heaven! Read his God-breathed love letter to you (the Bible) to find out more.) Oceans of blessings to you.

I've had this machine for about 2 weeks now and transferred almost 20 reels so far. I actually found out about this machine because they had one at my local library. After using it there and seeing how long it takes for a single transfer, I decided to just buy one to use at home. It's still cheaper than sending out your reels for professional conversion, and less risky! The one downside is the time you'll spend babysitting the film as it passes through. For reference, in my experience a 200ft/5in reel takes about 2.5 hours to transfer. And you won't want to leave it alone for too long in case it gets stuck (due to a bad splice, broken sprocket hole, etc.). Even with that in mind, using this machine is super easy and there is basically no learning curve. The instructions are also printed right on it so you don't have to keep looking in the manual. Important to note that the resulting MP4 files are 20fps so you'll need to adjust the frame rate in post for accurate speed. My recommendation for best results is to set Sharpness to Low and adjust the frame so you have enough room to compensate for the frame moving around mid-transfer. After the files are on the computer I put them into Davinci Resolve (it's free!) to adjust speed (Davinci has a feature called Optical Flow that does incredible interpolation), stabilize, and crop as necessary. You can also do color correction in Davinci but I think it's fun to just leave the footage how you found it. I've had excellent results using this workflow and I highly recommend it! My family has been amazed by how good it looks, and it's been very entertaining for me as well (one of the first reels I transferred was my grandparents' wedding in 1950!). I definitely think there could be some improvements to make this machine even better, but for a beginner-level machine it's still great. April 2024 Update: I've now had this scanner for several months and it is still going strong after 80+ scans. It scans at about 118 frames per minute (or about a foot of film every 47 seconds), so a 3 inch reel will take approximately 39-40 minutes to scan. Hope this is helpful to anyone looking to purchase!

This product works as advertised, but there are a few things you should know. * It’s a good idea to use the digitizer to format the SD card before you start digitizing film. I ran two 3” reels and a 5” reel through it, but when I plugged it into my Mac there was only one file, the last one I captured. *Speaking of Macs, they put a hidden file on the SD card that keeps the digitizer from recognizing the video files, so you can’t play them on the tiny little display, assuming you want to. This is documented in the manual so it wasn’t a surprise. * The display is tiny, and I had to either hunch down or tilt the digitizer to get a clear view. I’m 6’1” so your mileage may vary. * Other than Record the most commonly used function I use is Frame Adjust. You need to hit the Down arrow six times to move from Record to Frame ADJ, then hit Up six times to get back to Record. Just sayin’. * I found that it’s best to adjust the frame so that there’s room on all four sides, i.e. on 8MM film the edge of the sprocket holes are just visible on the right, the edge of the film is just visible on the left and the dark bar between frames is visible on both the top and the bottom. As the film advances the frame “wanders” up and down and right and left a bit. This also happens on my projector, so it’s not a defect of the product. In my experience most video editors make it easy to crop the image and the lost resolution is minimal given the tiny frames on 8MM and Super8 film. * Speaking of Frame ADJ, I wish it was possible to make the frame adjustment on the fly. My dad’s old projector has a lever and a dial that allows me to center the frame on the fly. If the frame goes off center you need to stop the digitizer, readjust, and restart, which starts a new MP4 file and increases the “reel count” by one. * A jog function that allows you to jog a few frames forward or, especially, backward would be very welcome. When using Frame ADJ the film advances two or three frames, so if you stop in the middle to fix the framing you lose those frames. * I happen to have a 9” takeup reel for Dad’s old projector, but it would be nice if the unit came with a 9” takeup reel instead of the 5” reel provided. These days finding empty reels for 8mm and Super8 film is an adventure. * This machine does not get along well with splices. Some of my grandfathers and Dad’s 50 to 75-year-old splices move through just fine, others hang up so you need to skip anything up to 2” of film to get things moving again. I’ve only had this product a couple of days and I have something like twenty-five or thirty 5”, 7” and 9” reels of 8mm and Super8 film to get through. The warranty is for 1 year or 200 reels (per the counter). So far due to film breaks, framing issues, splices, files that didn’t save, etc. my counter is up to 25 just for two 3” reels and one 5” reel. Here’s hoping it holds up long enough to digitize all the film Dad, relatives and friends took back in the 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s.

Este digitalizador cumple muy bien con la función para la que fue diseñado. La calidad del archivo de video dependerá de la calidad de la película original. Se pueden hacer algunos ajustes como encuadre (casi todas las películas lo requieren) y otros antes de digitalizar pero también se puede usar algún software de edición como Adobe Premier para mejorar colores, saturación o iluminación sobre todo. Su uso es bastante sencillo aunque es necesario estar pendiente de cuando termine de digitalizar la película ya que no se detiene automáticamente. Una película de 3 minutos se digitaliza en aproximadamente 30 minutos. Es una muy buena inversión si se cuenta con muchas películas 8 o super 8.

Sto usando questo apparecchio ormai da un paio di anni (quasi un centinaio di bobine riversate) e mi sono trovato bene. Se uno ha molti film da riversare è senz'altro molto più conveniente rispetto a far fare il lavoro da un professionista. La qualità è buona anche se non a livello super professionale, ma per i vecchi film di mio nonno, di mio padre e miei va benissimo e mi riporta indietro nel tempo. Ovviamente il processo è lento e bisogna armarsi di santa pazienza, ma il risultato è buono.

Easy to use. Meets expectations

very pleased,the detail on my 8mm films are best ever .my memories live again.thank you cliff

大きなリールが使用可能なこと。 性能の割にコンパクトなことがあけられます。ただ惜しむらくは 日本語の取説が付属してないこと。設定の際に困り果ててしまいました。どうやったかは別として、快適に使用しています。