YXPOLYER PPS Filament 1.75mm Engineering Filament for FDM 3D Printer Filament 1KG with PC Spool

Maxed temps, no fan, 1hour print (very slow print speeds) , didnt dry it. I am impressed that I got away with it despite doing all the things that make prints fail. 300c nozzle, 120c bed, 55c ambient, pei textured, no glue. Printed from external dry box. If you have a use case for the penultimate solvent and chemical resistant filament, give it a shot. Reddit made it sound like it couldn’t be done. Maybe to the brands credit, they modified it, making it accessible to hobbyists who were just curious.

Not the easiest to dial the settings, but you must watch the print and ignore what’s on the box. Not because the box is wrong, but because the filament is really printer sensitive and all heat blocks are different. For me…. 80C chamber, 310 nozzle, 20% nozzle fan, no chamber fan, 95C bed. Strength is good, layer adhesion good. Stringing and oozing minimal. Warping bad. That’s the only knock is warping relative to the bed. Had to lift the whole part up off the bed. Rigidity is extremely good. Parts do tend to shatter, but are very stiff with high temperature resistance up to that point. Similar to PC but I think it’s better for some higher temps while maintaining ridigity. Dried it and printed from 85C dry box. 40mm.s print speed.

I've only run Orcaslicer calibration prints so far, I got the flow calibration completed after the 2nd try with lots of Magigoo adhesive...the 1st attempt warped so bad it peeled off the bed before it completed(60c chamber temp), PA tower calibration had the same issue warped badly but managed to stay stuck to the bed until finished, retraction test worked 2nd try after slowing the print speed, Temp tower was a complete mess but settled on 310c as a good temp, Max Flowrate warped pretty badly but was able to get a good number from it(17mmcubed/s). This was all done on a RatRig VCore 3.1 500/Rapido2 plus, 110c bed temp. I haven't tried larger prints yet but on smaller print the filament doesn't cool fast enough so the print speed has to be dialed way back even with the part cooling fan @100%...and it warps really badly...although I'm not printing in the recommended chamber temp range of 70-100c (60c) although100 would be way too hot and it would warp from crystallization. Until I can get the chamber temp up another 10c to see if that addresses the warping issue I'll reserve the positive/negative review.

Works as intended. I've printed various parts that have been submerged in various acid solutions. So far the greatest stress test was submersion in sulfuric acid overnight and there was no sign of any change in the printed part. I work with an X1 Carbon and it prints great in the enclosed environment. Surprisingly easy to print.

Initial review was great testing small parts. Once you get anything over 50mm it warps like crazy! Already wasted 2kg! That is close to $200 dollars! I have an enclosed heated chamber, and got the bed to 120C, printed at 320 and still massive warping. Only get if you want to print something small otherwise it will literally pull the bed with it! Wasted two rolls because the plastic pulled the bed up with it and caused layer shifts! Would not recommend unless you print something small.

This filament is difficult to print but is superb at chemical resistance. I would stick with regular PLA unless you need this specific filament. However if you do need PPS, this works great.

While I have not gotten successful prints yet, the material is developed for very specific use cases. I do not have such a need, but if you do, I am sure you would also spend the effort to build a printing profile for this very unique filament.