Dorman 926-959 Patented Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

I don’t often write reviews, but I had to for this one. I work as a mobile mechanic, and I get a lot of calls for failing oil coolers on Chrysler products — especially the 300s. The original oil cooler is notorious for leaks and a ton of related issues. Whenever I replace a failing cooler, I always look for quality parts is best compared or above OEM standards, and this one goes above and beyond. Not only do you get a complete aluminum oil cooler, but it also comes with the oil filter and intake manifold seals, replacement screws for installation, and a port plug for specific models — which alone would cost about $80–$90 separately. This kit was clearly made with mechanics in mind. It saves me time and money by including everything I need in one box, so I don’t have to make an extra trip to the parts store. If anything, I wish this came with injector seals but that’s me being picky. The included gaskets are high-quality, and the color-coded design with a card explaining the gasket change - a nice touch. The cooler performs better than the original and keeps temperatures lower. Installation-wise, the cooler itself is easy. The hard part is just getting to it. Once installed, it fits perfectly in the valley, and I’ve had no oil pressure issues at all - in all my time installing these units. If you want to save around $150, buy it online. And if you want to save yourself a headache, get the Dorman cooler. Trust me, this isn’t a job you’ll want to redo.

The install is a bit of a pain. But the part has been perfect. Fits perfectly. Sealed perfect. It is exactly the part I needed. A major upgrade from the stock plastic one that leaked horribly. 2020 jeep gladiator overland.

have a damn solid mechanic. I thought I had a leak — I did not — but since this part is recommended to be replaced every 36k–50k miles and my Mojave was at about 50k, I opted in. I did quite a bit of research on this product. First off, most are made in the same factory in China but go through extensively different quality control processes. This includes Dorman and Mishimoto. I can’t say how many factories or which makes which, but know they are all made there. The biggest difference is the aluminum oil reservoir — some are made differently, and they don’t all sit well. Dorman’s unanimously has the best seal. That said, you really should use Mopar and Fel-Pro Viton seals — they are the blue and green ones. The red Viton are not as good and have failure issues. Also, use Mopar O-rings, use Mopar sensors, and use orange threadlocker — it’s a bridge between blue and red, literally made for stuff like this. Lastly, pay attention to torque specs on the cap — that’s the biggest failure point for the Dorman. The “best” fix is to couple it with a Baxter adapter, but that’s another ~$400, and those are debatable. The most important thing is to follow the torque specs and don’t over-torque the cap — over-torquing compresses the O-ring, which is where most failures occur. It’s not an easy job. Each part has different torque specs, and most reported failures are due to user error and incorrect torquing. If you don’t have the proper tools, buy the part, buy the seals and sensors I mentioned, and bring it to a shop that charges hourly. Use a Wix XP filter and Mobil 1 High Performance oil. The shop I took mine to installs these regularly. I wasn’t the only one there that day, but I was the only person who brought the full kit I specified, and the mechanic was very impressed and stoked because all he had to do was build and install it. Look — it’s a great quality product that is built to fit perfectly, keep oil pressure at the correct levels, and serve as an OEM replacement. It’s covered by warranty as long as you follow OEM installation guidelines.

Get rid of the factory plastic ....Dont he fooled by copies of the Doorman , dont compromise on the price .Perfect fit, no leaks ......contruction is robust, American Made and should last forever . Dont forget to buy and replace both oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensors. Search them independintly on Amazon . They are not expensive. Install should be done by a pro. Unless you are one.... My vehicle , 2014 Jeep JK V 6 ......This engine is in many Chrysler products...

High quality product from Dorman. Much better than the crappy plastic one from Chrysler. Heck, even the packaging it came in was so nicely done compared to most car parts you buy. Came with all the bolts and seals needed to install. The instructions are good for the removal and install of the item itself. I do want to note a few things though: 1) You need thread sealer if you are reusing the old oil pressure (Dorman 926188) and temperature sensors (Dorman 926427. I bought new Dorman ones shown here, which come with sealant already applied to the threads. The old ones aren't easy to get out. If you want to torque the sensors (15ft-lbs), you will need a 27mm deep socket for one of them which is pretty big. The other is smaller. 2) Make sure to remove the cap and filter from the old unit before removing or lots of oil will drop out the bottom. 3) Have a cheap hand pump from harbor freight ready to suck out all the fluids that drain out the bottom, namely oil. Make recommendation 2 above will help, but I feel there will still be a lot of fluids as it was the Exxon Valdez spill under there. 4) Doing an oil change following the install would be a good idea as coolant, oil, and dirt mix together in the engine trough. 5) You will drain coolant from the radiator but only about 2/3 of a gallon I bought way more than I needed. 6) My van had lots of oil in the upper and lower intakes so I replaced the PCV valve and cleaned all the oil out with engine cleaner (for plastic intakes) and throttle body cleaner (for the throttle body). I also bought an oil seperator to install later when it comes in. 7) This is a good time to replace the spark plugs also (NGK 93175, .044 gap, 13 ft-lbs) if over 100k miles. 8) It is helpful to have instructions such as Alldata or Chiltons to remove the parts. Some things like disconnecting the fuel pump harness and starting the car to remove fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel rail is a good idea. You also do not need to remove the electric fan if you just bend back the two front upper intake metal supports with a crow bar. Watch a You tube video. Good luck and thanks Dorman!

There’s like a 95% chance you’re looking at this because your oil cooler housing on your Mopar with the Pentastar is either failing, cracked, or leaking. All in all, this is a fantastic upgrade that I seriously wished was from the factory. Installation was absolutely painful for beginners or those who aren’t too mechanically inclined, but is definitely worth doing the change. Anyways, the Dorman oil cooler housing is metallic instead of the OEM plastic, which is rather obvious given that the OEM one is black and metal being metal, is silver. Oil pressure is the same, functions really smoothly, and fits exactly the same as a new OEM oil cooler housing from Mopar. Now the caveats were that the included seals were and are trash, so I went and got the OEM seals for it, same goes for the included oil filter. Installed on my 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL Limited V6 4x4 and after running it for over two months now, this was easily one of the best maintenance things I’ve ever done.

Great solution for a crappy design. Dorman for the win on this one! Everything you need to replace, all gaskets, and an oil filter are included. Fits and functions perfectly. I strongly encourage you to change oil when your in there. Coolant will leak into the oil pan.

2017 Jeep Cherokee V6 3.2 Tried a knockoff as the price point was awesome. But it didn’t fit into the oil return port. The Dorman was a perfect fit . Just wish it came with the sensors . Since I had the knock off and the Dorman side by side , I could see the craftsmanship in the Dorman was definitely better. Well worth the price and as long as you go slow and have all the tools you need, pretty easy to diy

The product is made in Malaysia and is of low quality. Why was it not made clear that it was made in Malaysia? I want American made. In general, the quality is bad. There is no professionalism in the final appearance. Aluminum alloy inserts are not equal and I do not recommend purchasing them.

After smelling a strong odour coming through my heater vents, I initially thought the exhaust was leaking but the pools of oil rapidly forming under the car let me to research leaks on the Grand Caravan, and this became the number one culprit. I watched a bunch of videos online about how to replace this, and as a fairly competent home mechanic with basic level tools I took my time, checked and double checked everything, and had the whole thing done in probably 3-4 hours outdoors on the driveway. It's been a week and no more smells or oil leaks. It's not the cheapest replacement part, but the quality appears to be good, and there is some basic assembly required so make sure you have all the tools before you start. A lb-in torque wrench is a good idea if you want to be precise as well as something like water pump pliers or hoseclip removal pliers. Car trim removal tools proved really useful for loosening old hoses. Also, I'd recommend getting an oil transfer/extractor syringe that will make light work of cleaning out most of the pooled oil that will have collected in the valley between the cylinder banks. Much better than soaking it up with paper towels. In some online guides they will instruct you to remove the fuel hose from the injector manifold - i found it easier and quicker to remove the airbox, leave the fuel rail connected and simply flip the injector manifold over to where the airbox used to be.

Llegó en 5 días.

Installed a few months ago and still no problem. Throw away the plastic OEM junk and replace it with Dorman alloy parts. That's the way to go.

Sehr gut