Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Copper+ Titanium Alloy Throat Tube Bimetal Heatbreak Compatible with Creality Ender 3 S1, Ender3 S1 Pro, CR10 Smart Pro, Sermoon V1 3D Printer

If you’re like me and unwisely bought a Spider V2 hotend, accidentally snapped the anemic bird’s leg of a throat tube while removing a blob of CF-PETG, and realized there is literally no compatible replacement heatbreak available anywhere, then you’re in luck - this is an almost-perfect substitute. It is 3mm shorter on the heatsink side, and the chamfering is much narrower, but the quality is as good or better than the original with perfect fitting M6 threading. It is also the only available part on Amazon that even comes close to matching for the Spider V2. You could print out a spacer (maxed dimensional accuracy) to close the gap between the tubing inlet and transplanted heatbreak with a narrowing bevel down to 3mm diameter (almost no heat makes it that far up anyway) but so far mine is running fine without it. Just had to adjust nozzle/ABL offset, but filament threads through and extrudes no problem. If you have a Sprite Extruder/Hotend combo (reallly should differentiate since there’s the Sprite SE extruder alone now) this should be a perfect drop in.Bit pricey for so small a part, but it sure beats buying a whole new hotend 😮‍💨

Finally a proper fitting heatbreak has been released outside of getting an entire Sprite pro extrusion head. Being made of bimetal, the immediate benefits of smoother flowing ABS and faster heatup times when paired with the copper heater block was immediately noticed going from printing Maker's Muse's tolerance gauge! Installation was super easy, but one must pay attention to the depth of the threads going to the heater block, and when the nozzle is tightened down, or you will appear to have a loose fit. Sort out the thread spacing first before doing any tightening down of the two screws that hold the heating block to the main body. Hold off on the electrical connections as well, as fitting it takes a few tries. Also make sure the nozzle isn't sitting too high, which may result in the fan shroud dragging on the print. Although I've also purchased a Sprite pro head, I may not even need it as this is flowing so nicely! ABS is flowing like buttery PLA when it's setup perfectly, whereas previously it had some slight extrusion artifacts and I've already cooked the inner PTFE tube in the stock heatbreak.Perfectly finished part and a very necessary upgrade for the regular Sprite extruder!

I upgraded to this pro copper alloy one after having a giant blob of death (overnight print failure) on one of my sprites with the aluminum heatbreak and having to refit it with new parts. I don't notice a huge difference outside of it heating up a bit faster. However, If you had one of the older heatbreaks with PTFE tube I'd say it's certainly worth the upgrade, but if you already have the regular bimetal heatbreak that comes with the sprite pro setups, I'd say hold off until you need to replace it.

It does work well if you heed the advice in this review and others to seal the threads in some way to prevent filament leakage.I wanted to upgrade by heater block and the heatbreak so I got this for the heatbreak portion and an aluminum heat block. I assembled by new hotend assembly and installed it into my printer without sealing the threads. And I got some filament leakage.I took it apart again, cleaned off the filament and took another stab at it. I had some high heat thread tape and applied just enough to wrap around the threads twice. Once I reassembled it and did another test print, my filament leakage problem went away.I can't say I notice a difference in printing performance, but this heatbreak is well built and having the bi-metal design seems to help with heat control.I'm pleased with it. Any upgrade I can do to improve my printer performance is welcome.

This was literally night and day those ptfe tubes are such a pain just save yourself the hassle and get this before you're printer arrives and swap it out immediately

Install and run a PID tuning cycle and this thing performs like a champ but works best with an upgraded block at the end of the hot end. Nozzle temps are super stable even with a 50MM part cooling blower fan.

Tried to instal in my S1s. Both had stringing issues I couldn’t solve. Wish I hadn’t made this purchase but whatever. You love you learn.Also they fit in the S1 but kind of stuck out a bit further than the previous ones did

Great upgrade to have a all-metal hotend,no complaints.

My heatbreak cracked and replaced it with this one. It’s great! Prints like a dream now

I bought this to combat clogs on my original Ender 3.Fitted it and first print it clogged. Trying to remove it, it seems to be soldered in with filament, I have broken a wire going to the hot end which shorts the printer out.Currently miffed.

Sein Geld nicht wert lieber eine Orginale Heatbreak kaufen