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โจ See and be seen: Illuminate your drive with crystal-clear confidence!
Mothers NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit is a professional-grade, all-in-one solution designed to quickly restore clarity to plastic and acrylic headlights. Featuring a mechanized polishing system with soft-flex backing plate, quick-change sanding discs, and PowerPlastic 4Lights polish, it removes yellowing, oxidation, and light scratches while applying a durable protective layer that guards against UV and environmental damage. Ideal for DIY enthusiasts seeking fast, long-lasting, and showroom-quality headlight restoration.





| ASIN | B00GZLMEPM |
| Best Sellers Rank | #24,603 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #51 in Automotive Headlight Restoration Kits |
| Brand | Mothers |
| Brand Name | Mothers |
| Compatible Material | Plastic |
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 out of 5 stars 10,549 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00078175072511, 00078175372512 |
| Included Components | Mothers |
| Item Dimensions | 9.4 x 4.1 x 3.4 inches |
| Item Type Name | NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit |
| Item Weight | 13.6 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 9.4 x 4.1 x 3.4 inches |
| Manufacturer | MOTHERS |
| Model | 7251 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Part Number | 07251 |
| Set Name | NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit |
| UPC | 078175072511 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Warranty Description | Please contact us if you experience any issues within 30 days of receipt. |
A**S
To Restore or Not to Restore that is the real question?
This 2007 Honda Pilot, LX model had a problem which needed a permanent solution. The headlight beam wasnโt too visible due to heavy-oxidation and couldn't see the road anymore at night. The solution was that it was time for an HID kit. After deciding that I wanted HIDโs I ran into the real problem. The headache of researching it all. I spent hours looking for something like Iโm about to write specifically for Honda Pilotsโ and the goal of this multi-product review is get the most bang for my buck. Ideally, if this review can help you make a decision rather quickly, and to demonstrate and show you what happens when you combine all three to achieve freaking fantastic results- then Iโve done my job. After hours and hours of researching I realized what the best possibilities were for my situation: 1. Purchasing new headlights 2. Restoring the headlights 3. Purchasing new headlights with expensive projectors on them with an HID kit 4. Installing LED lights Once, I decided It was clear to me that I needed to do, and it was to Create my own kit. I got lucky since the vehicle had stock projectors and immediately gave me a jump-start which made things easy for me- so it should be easy for you. Hereโs the checklist of what was needed. My budget was $100 to see this through. 5. Restore the headlights (needed a kit) 6. Install the new Ballast (needed a kit) 7. Change out the old bulbs to new bulbs (needed new pair) Headlight Restoration I used the Mother NuLens kit- and am glad that I used this kit. Excellent product, and for the price, and review it had it was the best choice that I could decide on, and a few other competitors offered similar results, but the reviews left consumers knowing that there was a better product to what they used, so I kept searching. I think I found it honestly. I used an old-hand drill and the attachment that the product comes with and was able to get really good results. Follow the instructions, and if you restore your lights- do this while the car is cool, and in shade if possible. Total paid $9.35, and the lights look brand new. I already did another pair of truck lights, and they look good. Itโs a 1999 Ford F150 thatโs seen a lot of construction sites, and a ton of oxidation. This product did a fantastic job restoring those as well. Cleaning takes ~15 mins per light if you want to do it right- if you follow the instructions as I did. Selecting Non-Flickering Ballast Next, it was time to select new Ballast. Luckily, my truck was equipped with stock projectors, so check if you have projectors. After reviewing what it seems almost 30-40 products, I ran across the HYB Canbus premium 55W ballast. Based on product reviews, and other YouTube tutorials and before and afterโs HID kits I saw-poorly mislabeled all over YouTube; The Canbus ballast were the best choice. Other products seem to flicker after a lot of usage, and I didnโt want to change something in a year or two. The reviews were pretty amazing. The other alternative was to use LED bulbโs which donโt use ballast- but those had negative reviews too and customers werenโt too thrilled. The other alternative was to purchase a complete kit- but there I couldnโt pick out or choose what I wanted, and everything looked cheaply made and reviews were also troubling. So I created this kit instead. I wanted maximum bright white lights, excellent satisfaction, a moderate budget, and something that I could do on my own. I paid a total of $39.99 for the premium ballast. If you see my vid- I included zip ties to the installation- I figured with the vibration of daily usage- based on the place where I could easily get to the ballast, I didnโt want to strain the adhesives, so I backed the adhesives up with a few zip ties to take the weight of the harness/connections. They donโt need to be there, I added those for protection. The Ballast work great- no flicker, and the light output seems to be brighter and brighter. Installation took 5-7 minutes per side, another 3 minutes for zip tying both sides. Choosing new Bulbs The Honda Pilot has regular halogen lights- they worked but due to the oxidation there was a lot of haze and it was filtrating a lot of my light output and the lights were illuminating the street poorly. I chose the Xtreme Vision HID Xenon bulbs. 5000K- which is a pure bright- white color. I didnโt want the blue as they loose Kelvin, so I selected these because it was one of the few companies that offered a 5000K pair of bright-white lights. The other bulb providers had worse to terrible reviews so I selected this company for my lights. The price was decent and thereโs a ton of regarding the company products, performance and their overall usage life. Took around 5 minutes per side. Smaller hands have an advantage in changing out the old lights. Final Product Total spent $64.33, the light output seems to be stronger and stronger with more nighttime use. I know that the Kelvin output dropped by selecting the 5000K HID bulbs and Iโm not receiving a full 5000K- because Iโm running 55W ballast- but Iโm okay with that because eventually I will receive a product that I expect, not blueish- but bright white. The light output is great now, the light throw is great, and itโs getting brighter with each night time use. Since I installed, I added around ~5 hours of night time driving and the light out put is at least 15% brighter. Who knows how long it will take for maximum results, but I canโt wait. The final product is short of amazing considering what I originally had and considering that I spent $68 bucks, well then what a great final product? Now, - Iโm finding excuses just to drive the car out at night. The combination of all three products worked extremely well for my use. For those heavy DIY guyโs and galโs, anyone of you can do this, male or female- itโs truly plug and play. If youโre a woman, youโll probably complete this project faster because getting to headlights can require a smaller hand and there alone you have an advantage over a male. For HONDA PILOT owners, you can access the headlights without taking out the bumpers for this year/generation. Overall, the final product Iโd give it 10/10 stars. Hereโs the best part- I was actually $32.67 under budget- Heck Yeah!!! as Napoleon Dynamite would say; and the budget part was a little extra for you finance/accounting nerds- you know who you are. Thanks for reading, I hope this helps you with your decision. If you have great products, and would like me to do a thorough review please email me at [email protected] Product Title & Product Links: Xtremevision HID Xenon Replacement Bulbs - H11 5000K - Bright White (1 Pair) - 2 Year Warranty https://amzn.to/3cnuB4T HYB Canbus Slim Digital HID Ballast 55W Error Free Warning Cancel for HID Kit H11 H7 H8 H9 H4 H1 9005 9006 Universal Fit(Pack of 2) https://amzn.to/2wmeB2v Mothers 07251 NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit https://amzn.to/39cMmlE
J**P
It works well on yellowed headlights
It's a nice kit. It comes with everything you would need for yellowed headlights. I had to use the sanding discs and couldn't just polish on the first step. For anyone who is a beginner, make sure to use the smaller number sanding discs and move up for each additional step. One big thing when sanding is to use a spray bottle of water and use copious amounts to prevent swirl burn on headlights. The last step is using the blue polisher/buffer pad. They give enough sandpaper pads to do about 4 headlights. I had to do each headlight 2 full times to get rid of yellowing (see pics). I kind of made a mess with some of the product flinging off buffer, so apply with no drill speed and let dry then come back to buff. I would recommend this kit to a friend.
G**S
Did a great job but not perfect
This made a big improvement for my old Cloudy headlights. Found that it was very difficult to control with my drill. I think that's why I didn't get the perfect results. Gave the RPMs. I think the mistake I made was that I should have been in low mode on my drill for the sanding and then high mode for the polishing. The value of the product was right and it was easy to do. I'll probably give it another try in the future. I'm still giving this a good rating since probably it was my fault. I didn't get the perfect results.
J**T
Easy to use
Really good stuff!! Worked great! Be careful with drill.
M**1
Ok kit
I bought this kit to use on the fourth headlight restoration I have done in the last 10 years and all four times used a different method or different kit. Of the four times I would say this was the most difficult and hardest overall with the worst results. First of all, it takes forever doing it with this kit. I think I was close to two hours on the Restoration when normally it takes me like 25 minutes tops. There is absolutely no directions except for really bad ones on the back of the box so I started doing what I thought was correct only to discover I was doing it out of sequence about halfway through and had to start over but since they donโt send very much sandpaper I had now burned through my inventory and had to clean the sandpaper off to try to get it to work. Even after working and reworking the headlights, I came to the realization that it simply wasnโt going to take off about 15% of the fogging and issues. It did get the rest and it does look better but now it just looks used instead of extremely used. Out of frustration I switched gears and took some 800 grit wet dry sandpaper from the garage and some Dawn dish soap, water and hand sanded the headlights down until they were a nice smooth fog and then polish them up with 1200 grit wet, sandpaper and then 2500 grit wet side paper, and then polished them And they looked brand new after that. Ironically, I used probably two dollars worth of material that way and the results were much better than this kit.
E**S
Works Great
Works surprisingly well
M**R
Skeptical. Then scared. Then given hope. Then pleased.
Got this at Christmas and only now 6 months later have I had the guts to try it. My headlights were worse than the "before" headlights on the box. My lenses were completely dark yellow and you couldn't see the light mechanism behind the lens at all. They were heavily pitted, also. I should have taken a before picture but quite frankly, I wasn't thinking this product would work. I am posting some "after" pictures. See explanation, since I'm really not finished. Previously, I had tried following instructions on using the restoration"wipes", using a dremel with toothpaste, etc. rubbing compound, blah, blah, and nothing really worked, hence my procrastination with trying this product. First, full disclosure, I'm a girl. Yes, you dang feminists it matters, because though I'm a strong girl, even the weakest beer bellied men on YouTube showing me how to do this, have more force behind them than I have. So, I'm going to give you gals, and men who don't want to have to exert much effort, some pointers on how to make this a success. 1. If your lenses are remotely yellow, use the "heavily damaged" instructions. This walks you through all the steps of using the fine grit papers. Most of the YouTubers show folks using the blue buffing pad only. If your lenses are yellow, don't waste your time. Jump right to the "heavily damaged" instructions. 2. Mask your dang vehicle with painter's tape. Yes, it is worth it to postpone this headlight restore until after you drive to the store for painters tape. Though, ladies, if you are a quality COO of your house then, by gosh, you should have a nice selection of tape to choose from already. 3. Make sure your drill is charged or you have a cordless. You will be working around water so use a cordless if you can. 4. Don't be afraid to ruin your headlight, it is already ruined. Go into this with knowing that the worst case scenario is that you will buy a new lens. 5. Relax, knowing that you won't ruin your headlight. Once you get past step 2 of the "heavily damaged" instructions, you will realize that all will be well. It took me 3 hours to get to the point you see in my photos. This is because I wasn't sure what the end of each process should look like. So, let me quickly give you my opinion based on anecdotal evidence. Use the 800 pad until ALL the yellow haze and chipping and pitting is gone. Use muscle and force. Yes, your lenses will be cloudy, still remind yourself this is better than it was. (worst case scenario right?) As you run your fingers along the lens you shouldn't feel bumps, or the fine cracks or scaling. Now, the worst is over. Use the 1500 pad until you can see, through cloudiness, your actual lights. At this point you may see the swirls left by the 1500 pad because you didn't move your pad around quickly enough. That's okay. That's what the 3000 pad is for. Remember to use the 3000 on a dry lens. Use the 3000 pad until you can't see the swirls at all. There will still be haze, but it should be a fine haze. At this point if you still see thick parts of damage or pitting then go back now to the 800 and correct it, following up with the 1500, then the 3000. You do yourself no favors rushing to the polishing pad when you still have embedded haze and scaling. The polishing pad will not, I repeat, WILL NOT, remove the pitted damage. If you have followed the steps correctly then you should have what is in photo 1. The polishing part is simply time consuming. You will think it's not working and are stuck with hazy lenses, but just stick to it. Keep applying the paste and work it in. It really does get there. What you want is photo 2. Photo 3 is simply showing you the contrast between the polished and unpolished. I'm still not even done polishing photo 2 but my drill ran out of battery because I kept having to go back and redo what I should have done correctly the first time. Plus there is that whole "lack of upper body strength" issue. So, I can't wait to drive in the dark now. In closing, don't waste time and money on the "quick" solution that give mediocre results at best. I suspect that someone with really bad headlights like mine, who can follow instructions and be fearless in really getting through the layers, should be able to get to through the polishing stage in less than half an hour.
R**K
A waste of money
This seems to be a gimmick to sell the large size of plastic polish, because their first instruction is N OT to sand off the oxidation ( like all the other kits i bought) but to just polish the heck out of it using up lots of polish and their poof ball polisher in a rotary drill. First don't buy things that use rotary drills instead of orbital ones -- you can see the nice speckle job a rotary drill does on my car. whatever binder they use in those sanding discs has bonded to the paint on my car - this picture is after 2 times through the car wash. I am going to have to hand remove these somehow. THe instructions for using the discs is poor. mostly they want you to use the poof ball and the plastic polish to restore the lens which for most yellowed lenses is not possible. You need to sand off the discolorations and using the 800 grit is like using hedge clippers on your beard very rough and nasty. The right grades should be 1000, 1500., then 3000 if you do not want to end up spending half the day sanding out the previous scratches. NExt you absolutely have to use some kind of liquid lubricant - water whatever otherwise you can end up burning the plastic instead of sanding it. Take a look at the picture of the lens with the red oval. Even with a lot of sprayed water, and a low speed drill, whatever binding agent they used on the sandpaper melted enough to create this brown gook that simply does not come off when polishing. I am going to have to hand sand with 1000 and do the whole thing over again becasue of this residue. Next they tell you to use a drill. What they don't tell you is that it spatters everywhere. Look at the picture of the hood of my car. This is after both lenses. They also don't tell you it dries like cement on your paint. Lucky for me I am planning to restore the paint any how or i would have been throwing bricks through their windows. FInally they simply do not give you enough sandpaper disks especially the 1500 ( only 2) and 3000 (only 1) to make it through two lenses effectively. one lens perfect the other not enough grit left on anything to clean the surface. How much could it cost to put an extra 1500 and 3000 disc in there? IN conclusion. Obviously they don't care much about lens restoration .They do care a lot about polishing lenses and using up their polishing compound in copious quantities. They give you enough compound to last a few years on 2 headlights, and if you just want to resurface the headlights again you will need to buy another overpriced kit to get the sandpaper or go buy sandpaper and try to cut out the little circles and GLUE them on the holder since you can't buy sandpaper of this grade that is prebacked with hook and loop. I would forget about another kit and just hand sand these in the future - less mess and you still need to use lubricant ( water etc). The more kits you buy to get the sandpaper the more bottles of useless plastic restorer polish you will accumulate. Finally most other kits give you a final surface coating to make believe they are trying to help you avoid doing the job again ( unless your surface coating is a high sio2 ceramic finish you will be refinishing every 6 months any how). This company doesn't even make believe they are interested in saving you work - they do not give you any kind of lens protector,. Instead they tell you to just refinish with their polish- again and again and again. Fooey! THey had a second thought - they include a special offer to save 20% on a lens protector you have to buy separately when it would cost next to nothing for them to put a couple of lens wipes in the package. Buy something else - anything else.
F**D
Next...
Sorry, didn't work for me.
R**O
Pleasantly surprised
Highly recommend. Result was far better than expected.
C**G
Excellent results.
I have tried several lens refurb kits in the past, all with little success. I tried this today and I can say the lights are like new. It was easy to follow the instructions and took about 30 mins per light.
J**C
No sirve de nada
Lo he probado en un Audi A4 del 2001 y decepcionante, el folleto habla de tres tipos de lija pero solo vienen dos. Sinceramente el faro ha quedado peor que como estaba, no se aprecia nada, es tirar el dinero... Al final he decidido comprar dos foco nuevos por poco dinero mas!
P**H
Five Stars
Good Product
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
1 day ago