Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander

one of the youtube video's on how to use this was wrong on where the parts go. It showed that the parts all went in the back of the SUV. The unit that controls the lights goes up under the dash. There is an multi pin plug up there. Then that unit has to be grounded. I took a nut off a bolt sticking out, clamped a bigger ring connecter and use that as a ground. Also as other people have stated, there is a fuse that goes in the unit itself, and one that has to be put in the fuse box under the hood of the car. It is number 29 in this car and is supposed to be 30 amps. I used a 20 amp as that is the highest I had at the time. I will get 30 amp fuses in case this one blows out. The pigtail goes in the back. There are videos on youtube to show how to get to that. That part is very simple, but you need to know how to get to the plug. Otherwise, it is simple to do it. The hardest part is using zip ties to hold the wires up out of the way by the brake pedal.

So as most folks said this is very easy to install. I installed it in a 2015 Highlander Hybrid. Plenty of videos on the Internet as to how to reach the wiring in the back of the vehicle so check those out. But there are a few things you should know and reading this should make it easier for you than it was for me. Once you get to the point where you have removed the pieces and hooked up the two connectors, you have two decisions to make. First is whether to drill a hole for the ground wire screw provided or use a screw or bolt already in the vehicle. I chose to drill the hole, sand and that's the best option in my opinion because you don’t need to sand any nuts or screws and you can put that screw where you want it--there are plenty of safe places to drill in the rear near where the adapter plugs in. The second decision is where to put the 4-pin plug (inside or outside the vehicle). I think the best option is to leave it inside the vehicle unless you will be using it a lot. You run it to the compartment where the spare tire tools are. I ran it through the piece of plastic that goes over the battery--see the picture (non-hybrid owners will not have a battery in the back), When you leave it there, it’s easy to get to--you never see it unless you use it and you don't need to worry about running it under the car and mounting it somewhere. Also, if it is outside the vehicle it can corrode, the wires can be cut, it can be damaged, etc. The only downside is it sticks out the back of the vehicle when in use, so if you are anal and don't want to see the wires then run it under and mount it. If you do run it under, the hybrid drain hole is in a different place from regular Highlanders, or at least it was from the one I saw in the video for a non-hybrid. In a hybrid, it is between the battery and the rear at the bottom—you’ll probably need a light to see it. I was confused by a video of a non-hybrid which showed the drain plug against the back of the vehicle (i.e., the hole points out the rear of the vehicle rather than down to the pavement as it is in the hybrid). As to the 10 amp fuse (the one that goes in the vehicle not the inline one in the adapter) the instructions say to consult the manual as to where to put it (there were two in my kit you only need one plus the inline one so you’ll use 2 out of the 3). Well, I could not find where in the manual to put the "trailer" fuse, but I watched the etrailer video and kind of "guessed" where it was from that. First, the fuse box is under the engine hood and it’s the main box (there is more than one) --see the picture as to where that fuse goes. There were only 2 possible places for it and it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Next, you must test your installation. If you do not have a trailer to hook up to it (or even if you do) there is a very cheap (under $7) and easy solution. Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a tester. They are cheap and I don’t care if you are an electrician and have all kinds of ways to test it, this is so easy using a generic tester is not worth the extra trouble to save $7. I bought the SeaSense EZ TROUBLESHOOTER Circuit Tester here on Amazon and highly recommend it. Did I mention you should buy the tester? Finally, once you reconnect the negative post on the battery and clean up, you’ll try to close the hatch door with the button on the door, it is probably going to beep at you and not close. The reason is that you disconnected the battery (assuming you do during installation and you should) with the door open the door "open/close sensor" won’t know whether it's open or closed hence the beeping. Close the door manually and it should work fine after that.

I'd bought a new 2016 Toyota Highlander New Year's Eve and needed to get a receiver hitch and wiring installed. I was seeing quotes of $1,000 and above for the dealership to install. A truck accessory business near me quoted almost $500.00. I watched a few videos on YouTube and read some instructions and reviews online and decided to attempt it myself. I ordered Curt hitch #13200, the Curt #56217 wiring kit, and a rubber Toyota hitch cover all for roughly $225.00. It all showed up in a reasonable amount of time, all packaged well enough and my only surprise was the beefiness of the hitch. I spent a few hours Saturday installing the wiring which was my biggest concern but it was actually quite easy. I drilled a small hole for the ground wire and ran the wiring underneath through a rubber grommet on the drivers side of the vehicle. I sealed up the grommet with some silicone and used electrical grease on the connections to ensure good contact. I wrapped all of the wire that exited the vehicle with that black plastic tubing material to protect it from rubbing anywhere. I'd bought a 5' extension from another retailer as I thought that this wire might not reach my trailer. But it seems long enough and I noticed that this wire was a heavier gauge (better quality) than the extra extension cord. Sunday I installed the hitch itself and borrowed my wife's help for about ten minutes to lift the hitch up into place and start the bolts. This entire installation could of gone faster but I'm very particular and meticulous. The hitch looks good, the videos that I found plus the instructions made it all a breeze and I'm proud of how it turned out. I have yet to pull the trailer but I pulled it for years behind another vehicle with a class II hitch so I know this will do just fine.

Very easy to install following different youtube videos (Curt, etrailer, etc). For my highlander XLE 2019 it was just plug and play, probably the instructions are not clear but search for a video and you will install it very easy, and most important, IT WORKS! Cheaper that the one the toyota dealership wanted to sell me but with great quality.

Le quedó perfecto a mi highlander 2017 le

Quedo perfecto en Totota Highlander 2019 y viendo el tutoríal de curt en YouTube es muy fácil de instalar siguiendo los pasos 👍🏼 Y a una fracción de lo que cuesta en la agencia

This harness was easy to install on the non trailer package hylander . It is good quality and I would Not hesitate to buy again

Easy installation. Only took me about 15 minutes start to finish. No drilling required. I saw a video on youtube that suggested to drill a hole to connect the ground wire, but I just put it underneath one of the nuts in the trunk area with good metal-to-metal contact. Connected two socket connectors, inserted a tow fuse and voila. IMHO, given the simplicity of the device, it is overpriced.