Genuine Briggs & Stratton 590454 Magneto Armature Coil Replaces 591932 799381 790817

My mower suffered from weak / no spark, so I purchased this replacement.I used this part in my Sears-Craftsman 6.5 HP / 21" mower, model #944.362400. I think that this mower has the Briggs and Stratton "Quantum" engine. The "590454 Magneto Armature Coil" replaces original part# 802574 on this mower. Note that it looks different from the original part on the mower. A youtube video recommended setting the gap between this part and the flywheel to .012 inches. Others stated that the Briggs and Stratton manual calls for a .010 inch gap. I gapped it to .012 inches and it worked immediately.The part came with a note stating, "Air Vane Replacement. If replacing the armature on an engine built before date code 101230xx, the original air vane must also be replaced. Order and install 790848 Air Vane (sold separately)." I believe that my engine was built before that date, but it has no air vane at all. So, check before you purchase an air vane. You can find out about how to read date codes on the Briggs and Stratton web site.

BRIGGS & STRATTON 590454 MAGNETO COILMy husband says --My Yardman mower is 17 years old and has always gotten quite a work out during grass cutting season. Lately it has been very hard to start when the engine was hot. All the tips I read pointed to the magneto coil. This mower still has plenty of life left in it so I decided to buy this part. Very glad that I did!First of all, it is more expensive than many knock off brands that people have problems with. This coil was EXACT and was a BRIGGS and STRATTON OEM part. The bolt holes line up, the spark plug wire is perfect and the connection for the kill wire was exact.This was about a 20 minute job to remove the top cover and pull the starter off and then install this part. I used a paper business card to gap the coil to the armature.This old mower now starts on the first pull whether it is hot or cold. Spend the OEM part, you won't be sorry.

My 1990 model Briggs & Stratton powered Rover Regal lawn mowers magneto final gave up, so replaced it with this unit that superceeds the original. Tested the spark before attempting to start it, gave a really good spark, fitted the spark plug then it started first pull. It even starts easier now than it ever has since I bought the mower brand new, as previously it would always start on the 3rd or 4th pull. Its obvious that Genuine Briggs & Stratton magnetos have improved since 1990. Mind you, nothing else was touched, only the magneto changed.

I have got a Briggs & Stratton Intek Edge engine on my Hayter 56 mower. The mower is 16 years old and over the last two years the mower had become very difficult to start when hot, sometimes it would and sometimes you could pull the cord a dozen times before it would start. Last winter I completely rebuilt the carburettor as I though that was the issue as it was flooding when stopped as the needle valve did not seem to close. That resolved, come springtime and grass cutting season again the same starting issues persisted and gradually got worse. I thought at that point of selling the mower on as it had become a liability, but decided that after watching a couple of You tube vids and speaking to a couple of small engine mechanice that it may be the coil. For just over £42 I thought I would give it a go as this option was much cheaper than a new mower! There are plenty of videos on line to show you how to change the coil and also how to check if you need one using a multimeter. For this model of engine the resistance in ohms should be between 2500 and 5000 ohms. The higher the resistance the weaker the spark and hence difficulty starting. Mine measured 4600 ohms so I thought changing the coil would be worthwile. It takes about an hour to take off the guards fit the new coild and put it back together again. Setting the correct air gap is also important the working range on this engine is 0.160-0.360mm. I set the gap to 0.250 using a feeler guage as that seemed to be the gap set by the manufacturer on the old coil. As oon as it was all put back together it started on the second pull, and has subsequently started on the first pull when hot, during mowing,about 800M2 , there also seems to now be much more power in the engine as the fuel is burnt more efficiently. So in a nutshell if you are having problems starting the engine when hot this may be your answer, my mower now performs like a new one.

Clearly an OEM part. Fit my 6.5hp 15 yr old Briggs lawnmower engine perfectly. Impedance measures just over 6k ohms. Comes with small and large spark plug clips. Note inside the box indicating need for modified governor vane on older engines such as mine but there was no need on mine. Briggs manual says set air gap at .006-.010 inches by the way. Design is changed from original but this is a quality part. Is it worth $40 when there are aftermarket parts at $15?? No clue but this is a trivial part to diagnose and replace and unlike the crummy knockoff carburetors (for example) is a very simple part so given the pretty high price delta for this particular item might be worth taking a risk on non-OEM version.