The Original, Patented, UL/CSA Approved Manual Transfer Switch - Made in the USA

The components are well built The switch itself seems heavy duty Got some heft to it. It’s built with copper wire. Not aluminum like the others. The unit as a whole is UL/ETL certified. Very important to be code compliant for both safety, inspection and homeowners insurance. Comes with an offset nipple and wire nuts. Nice tidy looking box made in the USA by a master electrician. That said there are some sticking points. Know your generator. Either a bonded or floating neutral. It comes setup, as is, for a bonded generator. If you have a floating generator, then theres a bit of rewiring, but it’s easy. NEVER USE A BONDING PLUG. Illegal and dangerous to life and property. The instructions could be more DIY friendly. They seem to be written for other electricians. The company does have a YouTube channel showing installation, but they could be clearer. Customer service is very helpful. The pig tails are about 24” long 12 gauge STRANDED copper. Most likely to clamp onto the female spades in the build. Stranded copper can be difficult to work with for the DIYer when using wire nuts. I used lever style wire connectors. Much easier. Also if connecting to an outlet, make sure to use one that uses side wiring. Can’t use stranded with the terminal screws. The instructions state that the wire connections need to be made outside the box. This is due to the components (inlet, switch, breaker) have spade connectors and take up all the room in the box. No room for wire nuts and extra wire. That’s why you get the offset nipple. You’ll need a metal handy box with a cover. You CAN NOT use a plastic box. The wires from the panel have to pass through the switch metal box and into the handy box to make the connections. From the handy box, out to the load. The outer sheath of the Romex has to be removed of the length inside of the switch box into the 2nd box. The exposed wires have to be encased in the offset nipple. However there maybe a problem depending on your particular situation, like mine. I was tapping into the line in the basement to my refrigerator. The wires are all exposed but very little slack. Since the wires from the panel need to pass through the switch box into the handy box that’s a problem. Not enough wire to work with. You’ll either need to run a longer wire to the load (outlet, heating system). That can be costly and a pain. Easiest option is to use wire butt connectors and lengths of wire to extend them. In my case I added an outlet in the basement just outside the switch box. Using pig tails off of the outlet, I made the wire connections in the switch box adding a 4” box extension ring on the switch box. This gives plenty of room for the wire connections and components in the one box. And it’s a lot easier. Costs the same as a handy box and cover. A little preplanning goes a long way. And plan on a trip or two or three or more to the home improvement store. Like every other home project. I connected one to the circuit to my refrigerator and an other one to my furnace. Both work flawlessly. I tested both hookups with generator for 15 mins to insure it’s done right. Very pleased with the product as a whole.

The switch is very well constructed. It includes all the things you need for installation. Comes with offset conduit, wire nuts. It was easy to install, and the instructions were very clear. We tested it with the generator and then switched it back over to the house power there were no issues. it worked great.

Very pleased with packaging and Quality of product. Instructions are not the best for a "Lay Person", But, there are Plenty of excellent videos on UT on installing. I installed properly and it functions properly.

I wanted to be able to run my heat during a power failure with my generator. This is the simplest solution that is inexpensive and meets code. I had the person that services my HVAC system install it. Tested it out and it worked really well. I hope I don't need it but it's nice to know I have a back up just in case. The switch is well made and comes with just about everything you need to do the install.

I have installed one of these in each of my RVs. Most recently I installed one in a 27 foot shuttle bus that I converted into a camper with a full shower, microwave, freezer fridge combo, and a separate small freezer. The “generator” wires are hooked to an Alpha ESS 1000 solar generator. Before I unplugg shore power, I simply flip the switch to generator and my microwave, refrigerator, and freezer all stay powered up while we roll down the road. I have the charger for the solar generator connected so anytime we’re on shore power it is charging. In my other RV I used an inverter to keep the solar generator charging while driving, but even after a 14 Hour drive I still had 40% charge left even with temperatures from 80-90 degrees while driving. Great product that is well made and has paper and videos on how to install.

It's one of the only products I could find and that seems to have legit certifications. There are no instructions in the box, but many videos on their website. One thing I had not realized was that I needed to "convert" the default configuration for floating neutral. This is achieved pretty easily but required to replace one of the wires in the plug. While making that change, one of the pieces got loose inside the plug and I had to disassemble pretty much everything to fix that. I expected a little higher quality for this price. In the end, it all worked out.

After experiencing a few days of planned outages due to dry conditions and extreme wind, I decided to get a Honda portable generator (floating neutral) which powered most everything but my furnace. The EZ Generator switch has solved that problem. I downloaded the electrical diagrams and gave it to the electrician. It took him 1 hour to install and it tested out fine. Very pleased that there is such a cost effective solution. I would definitely recommend.

January of 2023. Still the best U.L. approved one circuit solution out there. You will see a copy-cat knock-off for around $15 less. DO NOT BUY IT. It is NOT a safe product and has no certifications. The listing does not claim to be UL listed but inquiries to the seller show no proof of it. If you read the description of the knock-off they even copy the listing almost word for word. It is not worth placing your safety at risk. 11/10/2020 $5 cheaper if you buy directly from seller and it is shipped by them regardless of where you purchase it. 11/05/2020 update. I received a reply back on my email describing my issue that I resolved on my own. This is a legit seller. They will assist if your questions are legit and not way out there (you best hire an electrician.) No one wants you to be injured due to your lack of understanding. 6 out of 5 stars for me. 11/04/2020 update: I have 2 generators for my power failure situations one 4000 watt open frame that has a bonded neutral. And I have a 1800/2250 watt inverter with the floating neutral. I want to run my furnace and electronics on the inverter. Say the furnace cycles every 30 minutes depending upon mother-nature there is 25 minutes of downtime where the ECO mode will run ever so quietly powering the electronics (routers, bridges and networked drives....etc. ) when the open frame unit will be going full throttle load or no load. Problem is my furnace does not like the floating neutral. I emailed EZ Generator to describe the scenario with no reply. I suppose legally they have to be careful providing solutions. I recalled I had an Isolation Transformer of medical grade I picked up as it was being disposed of (brand new) that has sat for 10 years forgotten. I plugged my TrippLite ISOBar surge protector into the Inverter and the Fault light was on. I ran the washing machine earlier going thru the same model surge protector and it worked find despite it recognizing the floating neutral and it did not like it. Isolation transformer in place the output side of the transformer is bonded. I run my cord from there to the furnace and BINGO it runs fine off of the inverter. And if it didn't my plan was to still use this device to clean up the dirty power feeding my furnace. The furnace ran fine off of the open frame generator. But I was wondering if there are any long term concerns sending dirty power to it. My furnace is not one of the latest high tech units. It does have a controller that looks like it wants clean power. I just want to back off on the fuel consumption during the time when the furnace is not running. And we have enough computer electronics in the house that really calls for clean power even though they are all low wattage devices. I realize I am fortunate to have acquired a device at the best possible cost-basis as in free. And that device is valued around $350 taking in power from an Inverter that costs only around $150 more. So for the average person looking for a cheap solution this is out of the question. If you have a very high-end Inverter and do not want to play with using up one of the outlets with a plug crossed between the neutral and ground for me an Isolation Transformer solved the problem. I used the 'How to connect the switch to existing equipment' video to allow me to successfully complete this project. Now that I have verified the generator running the furnace worked flawlessly I am ready to post this review. The furnace kill switch and he EZ Generator switch in the attached photo above are both mounted on the cold air return on the furnace. Some comments from customers indicate that they are confused that older versions of this switch shipped with the ground wire as a green wrapped wire. Now they ship with a bare copper wire. They are the same lead and need to be handled as the same ground wire. I used a sharpie to mark the Neutral Load and I am glad I did since when I was feeding the leads thru the connector the tags ripped off. This is a great device that fits my needs exactly as I had hoped. As I said I watched the "Kevin" video over and over. My dad was the electrician not me. The online tutorials are very good. It is a product I hope I will not have to use. In 25+ years in my house there was only one power outage where I relied on the wood stove for heat. No electricity meant radiant heat the 2 blower motors on the wood stove were useless. Even if only for peace-of-mind I am glad I did this simple project.