LED Underwater Pool Lights, 3W,12V-24V DC, IP68 Waterproof,Stainless Steel Aluminum,for In-Ground Swimming Pools Steps Ponds Fountains (Cool White-6000K)

It works fine but the cable length is ridiculous for an out door light especially near water

They work well but the back clips seem to rot quite quickly when underwater, I think the backs are aluminum as they get like aluminum rust basically a white dust... when this happens the steel clips break off.

Our Hayward $800 light went out again (gone through 2 haywards in 3 years)! I bought this based on reviews and gave it a try. This is an EXCELLENT replacement light - I spliced the wires into the existing Hayward 100 ft cord and it works perfectly! Super easy to install - I used waterproof heat shrink connectors and waterproof heat shrink sleeves to ensure the splice was completely sealed and water proof. Beautiful color and nice and bright at a great price.

I was fed up from replacing my colorlogic lights at $500 each every year. I took a chance on these lights given their price points knowing I’m getting slightly dimmer light and no color change - just blue. Installation is straightforward. I cut the wire and used waterproof connection. I used the cabling that came with colorlogic light. Note, these light works on AC 12v or DC 24. My transformer support AC 12V. Hence, no change was required at the panel. I can not comment on product life since I just installed them. But even if they fail every year, it’s still much cheaper than Hayward colorlogic 320 option. Note: top light in photo is Omnilogic. The bottom two ordered from Amazon.

Ok. Look. Here is the deal. I am replacing the pentair lights that are complete junk and expensive junk. They are not a perfect replacement but for the price it does what I need. The feed wires are pretty light bit seem to enough. They “fit” in the light case but be careful not to push them I too far. They do not screw in they just kinda snap in using the tabs. They work great. So far Jo problems. I am using my existing pentair controller. Just tied into the existing wires from the old pentair light. I did the best I could to make sure my connections will stay dry but we will see how the connections hold up. The hardest part was I needed to extend the existing wires to give me enough room to work on it. If I were to do it again I would just replace the whole wire from the controller to the light fixture. This would save a ton of tom and headache.

This is a very well made product. I'd seen a prior review indicating it can serve as a budget-friendly alternative fixture to replace my burned out Pentair Globrite lamps. In my case they wont. The junction box for my lighting wiring is (due to its location) barely above the lamps at the pool wall. So when I remove the Globrites the pool starts emptying through the conduit to the junction box! Given that these replacements will not be a snug watertight fit in the Pentair housing that is a problem for me. I like these lamps and I'm going to try re-purposing them into the landscape. BTW there is just a short pigtail wire on these lamps not the full 25' cable I'd need to get back to the junction box. Something else to consider when tackling your replacement.

I have a smaller Sunlite pool light that kept failing (it's about 3.5" in diameter and takes a small two-prong bulb). Upon opening it up, I discovered the water had completely corroded the bulb socket. Since this LED light is waterproof, I decided to convert my light over - I removed the four prongs inside the housing and the two on this light (to make room for this light), used waterproof connectors to connect the low voltage leads, filled the wired area at the base of the housing with silicone, inserted this light, added more silicone around it and foam to keep it centered, and reassembled the unit. With these adjustments, this light fits perfectly. The brightness is more than adequate and it works great. If it works months and years from now, then it's a home run ... but for now, so far so good.