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Often referred to as boots by non-Indians, these high topped moccasins were being worn by Plains and Plateau Indian women by the early 1800s. They were particularly popular on the Southern Plains where, during the mid-1800s, the style was refined to perfection by the Comanche, Kiowa, Southern Cheyenne and Arapaho, and Apache. A Southern Arapaho woman’s example from the late reservation period is on our cover. Apache men also wore a variation of this knee-high style. By the 1850s, and perhaps earlier, sole material for these high-topped moccasins had mostly evolved from soft leather to Indian-prepared rawhide, although even today some tribes still use the soft sole. The rawhide, however, made moccasins more comfortable and durable, being better adapted to the rocky and cactus-strewn ground of the Plains. Smoked, brain-tanned buckskin was the most common material for the vamp and upper parts of the moccasin. In the “buffalo days”, the high tops of some tribes actually extended well above the knee, secured by a garter. This allowed more complete protection for the woman’s lower leg while on horseback. Today, high tops are still a popular style of moccasin for many Plains and Plateau tribes. Comanche and Kiowa women refer to these moccasins as “leggings”. Since Cheyenne moccasin makers are acknowledged masters of the moccasin making art, we have chosen to present techniques of construction that are typically Southern Cheyenne, while also including mention of style differences worn by the Kiowa, Comanche, and Southern Arapaho. An elaborately beaded Cheyenne example is shown in the left photo below. Crow, Assiniboine, and other Northern women have a similar style, but it is not covered in these instructions.

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Plains Hi Top Moccasins Pattern No 4799 500 011

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