WADEOValve Core Remover Installer Tool with Dual Size SAE 1/4 & 5/16 Port, 20 PCS Valve Cores with Teflon Seal and 10 PCS Brass Nuts, Compatible with R22 R12 R407 R410 R404 R32 R600 A/C

SO i was a HVAC tech for over 5 yrs in the 90's and never used a valve stem replacement tool by self.. On my home system i have or now had 4 leaking king valves on the HP units outside.I had watch a video on how to use the tool which was good but not expectually my experience. Make the first one on the easy to access did unlike what I did..When you screw the tool on the port dont get it so tight.. if you get a slight leak it not a big deal.. When you open the valve and push the rod into the port be slow and you might need to twist it as well to make it through.. (hold the tool up take the rod out to see the chamber you are sliding stuff through to know what you are feeling before hooking it up.. )When you start to remove the old stem make sure to gently push the tool on to the valve so it attached to stem,, as you start to unscrew stem the pressure will try to push the rod out of your hand so keep slight pressure on the end while you are unscrewing the stem.. keep turning till you feel it click which mean it out of the treads on king valve.now gently start to guide the extrector back with old stem, no need to pull as the pressure is pushing you back, making sure to be easy when you get started and twisting can help it through the bore.. On the first one when i pulled the rod back and tried to shut off valve on tool it would not turn as the stem was sorta in the way.. you back push back in to see if you can catch the stem to pull it back past the valve to shut off pressure.I was able to push the stem toward unit enough when i pulled rod back without stem but was able to close the valve on tool.. I removed rod by unscrewing the end and would quickly open the valve shooting the old stem out and then shut it off.. (make to be out of the way and it come with force. )put new stem in the tool , place back in bore and screw down the nut, open the tool valve and push the stem back in.. keep pressure on knob on rod as the pressure is pushing you back the whole time. when you get it to king valve hold finger on know to keep in in place and slowly turn to tighten the stem back in.. get it snug but not over tight.. they will stip out and you are SCREWED.I then pull rod back through bore and turn valve off.. unscrew the rod and then slowly crack tool valve to release pressure can conform the stem is sealed.. you will hear a slight purge then it done. anymore and you need to redo the stem.go slow and feel everything and try to not screw it up.. Wish i had a video to share but that a lot of work by yourself and needing both hands.hope this helps.. it saved me hundreds to get this done by HVAC repair company.. allthey want to do now days is replace older stuff. these unit are 1991 HP but converted to straight AC in 96 and we dont keep it 70 in summer in NC.. so not a lot of hours.. and its R-22 which is still have a couple tanks of from past business.. yes EPA certified tech.. :)

I purchased a very similar (almost identical one) like this a few week prior to this one. That one has either the stem shorter (I doubt it) or the value body assembly just slight larger (longer) so when I attached the 1/4 to 5/16 adapter included, the stem cannot touch the valve core so it will not work for 5/16 connection. Unfortunately, I throw all the packing material away so even within 30 days, I could not return it.Then, I found this one and after comparing the pictures, I was convinced that this one has a "longer" stem. Upon receiving it, I checked it and it indeed works for both 1/4 and 5/16 connection, which is what it supposed to. So, now I have one for 1/4 and another for both 1/4 and 5/16. Given the cheap price, I would not expect it would be leak free forever. But, I probably would need to use it less than 10 times so it is safe (especially, I now have two). Lessons learnt, don't throw away packaging before 30 day mark....

You can spend way more for a tool like this, but this one is well designed and constructed and works. I’m just amazed how all of this is included. Tool, caps with O rings and new valve cores.Like all these tools, the actual removal of the core is a little tricky. You can’t see when/if it’s backed out and on the shaft. At best, you need to pay attention to the feel of the core being out of the port threads by the feel it makes as it makes a complete turn with a little pressure on it. You’ll feel it. Just be light handed. It took me three time until it showed up, after closing the ball valve. For about $20, you’ll save hundreds on the first use from a service call from a local HVAC shop. I’m sure they hate tools like this that empower DIY home owners.

I won't repeat a lot of the other good advice here (inspect the tool closely to see how it is made, practice with it, know exactly what process you are going to use when you use it for real, don't over-tighten any of the fittings, etc). The fact is, I was about to give up on my first valve core replacement (and just use the nice new brass caps with o-ring as the seal). The problem is, with my early 2000s Goodman compressor unit, the part of the valve core that the tool interacts with was much narrower than the tool is designed for (or the included valve cores). So I could unscrew the core, but the tool did not come close to 'grabbing' it when I tried removing it. The core would stay behind somewhere in the tool. I tried bending the 'prongs' at the end of the tool inward a good amount, but it was still not enough for these valve cores....Anyway to make this shorter, when you get the tool, take the rod/plunger out entirely and look into the bore of the body of the tool. If it is like mine, there is a stepped constriction at the ball valve. The bore becomes smaller by a fraction of an inch, with no smooth transition. So the valve core will easily snag on this 'step' and stay behind (while you pull the plunger out the rest of the way without the core). This is a huge oversight / design defect.I suppose you could consider drilling out the valve area to match the rest of the bore size to remove that step... What I did was just be persistent, and try many times (slowly draw plunger back while continually slowly turning it to maintain friction on the valve core) until I got it.Most important, I figured out a good way to 'test' if I got the valve core (rather than left it hung up somewhere). Once you pull the plunger all the way out as far as you can, shut the valve, then push the plunger forward. IF you have the valve core on the end of the plunger, you will only be able to push it the slightest bit forward (because the valve core takes up almost all of the space before the valve). You will immediately feel it hit the valve. In that case, you got the valve core and can open the end of the tool and remove it. On the other hand, if the plunger moves back a half inch or so before hitting the valve, then you know you did not get the valve core and will have to open the valve and try again. This way you don't repeatedly waste a bit of refrigerant by opening the end every time to look to see if you got the valve core or not.I was finally able to get the first one done after understanding these things, and the second was a bit easier because I knew what I was dealing with (and that it was possible). I appreciate the nice brass caps with o-rings and the new valve cores that came with the tool (hopefully they will work well).