PS1004 3000W Continuous 6000W Surge Peak Power Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Starter Cables and 4 Output Sockets, Updated Model, Grey, Standard

Power Tech-On 3000/6000 12v inverter. 08/07/17 - Initial setup and testing. Set up with 4 Trojan T105RE batteries in 12v configuration. Using 0/1 AWG wire and lugs. From the batteries to the inverter, is 3 feet. Positive lead has a 250 amp fuse and 300 amp disconnect. Turned on 12v and then the inverter. Kill-a-Watt metter showed 115v. Connected a 1/2" heavy duty Black and Decker drill. The inverter didn't even know it was there. Next up, a 700 watt microwave oven. Same results, the inverter powered the microwave oven happily. Now for the big one, a small GE window AC unit. Rated surge at 9.5 amps, running on high 4.5 amps per the label on the side of the AC. Connected up, flip the switch to high cool and away the AC unit went, dumping cold air. I let it cycle a few times and every time it started back up, there was no issue. I did not have to use the slow start up process. The inverter was fully running, surged to 9.5 amp, and then dropped to 4.5 amp for continual run. Those who are having trouble with this inverter running heavy loads either have a defective unit or they are using incorrect wire size/length. I learned really quickly about how important wire size is with low voltage DC. I have a duct fan that at about 3 foot of 10 AWG wire runs like a screaming eagle. I put it on 12 foot of the same wire and lost around 20% of the fans capability. The fan pulled 6 amps. If you're going to run anything that will use the full potential of this inverter, you CANNOT use the included DC cables, they are much too small. I take the inverter up to my ranch property in Sepember and will use it to power my travel trailer off my solar power system. I'll post if there are any issues. So far I'm pleased with the results. I would like to see the same meters added to this unit that are in my Ramsond 1500 inverter (battery voltage/AC watts draw) which makes a quick glance all that is needed to see if the system is OK. With this inverter I'll be adding an external battery metter and I'll use my Kill-a-Watt meter to monitor the current pulled. UPDATE: 07/13/2018 - I recently returned from a 4th of July week with my travel trailer. During the time there this inverter worked perfectly. In fact one night while running the TV, several lights, the microwave oven, a couple of fans, a refrigerator and freezer everything went dead! Luckily in places like this and especially at night, I carry a flashlight. After some searching around I had found that the inverter wasn't the issue. The 250 amp fuse which I have inline to protect the inverter had blown. Replacing the fuse resolved the issue and the inverter powered up and ran fine. Calculating out, I figured I was pulling just around 200 amp DC, which shouldn't have blown the fuse, but it did. The good is that the inverter was having no problem providing 20 amp AC at 115 volts. My next trip is in November when I plan on doubling the 0/1 cable from the batteries to the inverter (both with 250 amp fuses). This should resolve any issues with pulling so much current from the batteries. I'm still very pleased with this inverter. It's working great.

This was purchased to replace a 5000w modified sine wave inverter that abruptly died. I only ordered it to fill in for a few days till a new inverter with better output could be acquired. Needless to say, this inverter is doing the job the larger unit did and doing it much better! My equipment is running better and the power is much cleaner. Also, the LED lighting in the truck no longer flickers when the inverter is running like it did with the old one. Well here we are a few years later and this inverter is still running strong. Just ordered a replacement remote switch since the original is starting to stick a little. But after 3+ years of hard use I can't complain even a little bit. This inverter is being used in a locksmith service van and it is powering all the LCD lighting, 2 key machines (both 110v), 3 laptop computers, 1 Dell Printer and it also powers 2 Milwaukee 18V battery chargers for the Milwaukee power tools we use. On occasion it also powers the Dremel tools and a hot glue gun. I have the inverter hooked to 2 Optima 1000amp gel cell yellow top batteries and they are connected with a relay switch and 0 gauge cable to the main truck battery. (Inline from the truck battery to the inverter batteries there are 2 resetable 250amp fuses to protect the truck from overload.)

We use this a backup when the power goes out. We have 4 deep cycle batteries and a 100 watt solar panel. We have used it when boondocking, rrt, tent, tt camping and it works out really well. We have never hooked it up to our tt when camping. We just hook up the few items we want to run. when done running we just put the battery on the solar panel and call it a day.** Remember to do your research and understand what you want to use it for and how everything works together.*** **update** This power invertor is worth every penny for us! We did use this camping in October in Wisconsin and it did every thing that we needed done. We have upgraded our battery to a JITA 12v 300 AH battery lifepro deep cycle battery 200 a bms 2000-5000 cycles, 10 year life, power fast charging for solar power system rv house trolling motor wheelchair household ( 12 v 300 Ah). The battery is pricey , but worth every penny($1,009.99) Again do your research and make sure you understand how everything works together.

I used the inverter only a few times since purchasing it a few months ago. But there are two problems: First, the supplied remote on/off switch didn't work right out of the box. Second, after only a few uses, the inverter no longer works. And their customer service is so far awful. The remote switch: It's supplied with the inverter and didn't work right out of the box. I contacted the company and asked for a replacement. and I supplied proof of purchase to show I'm well within the warranty period. But they won't send a replacement switch until I send them a video of the malfunctioning switch. That's a stupid and inconvenient policy, not least because even very short video files are too large to email. I made a 12 second video and Outlook refused to send it, saying the file was too large. I finally tried sending it directly from my phone and for some reason it went through like that. I'm waiting for word from the company. Regardless, what is a video of the switch not turning on when the button is pressed going to tell them? For all they know, the switch is hooked up wrong or not at all. That's not the case, of course, as I had an electrician who really knows his stuff install the inverter and switch. But you can't tell one way or the other on that just from a video of the switch being pressed and nothing happening. They shouldn't make customers jump through hoops to get a warranty replacement. If I have a problem with the inverter, itself, their behavior so far doesn't bode well. As it turns out, it's not if I have a problem with the inverter. I tried to use the inverter today and it is malfunctioning. I plugged in a small appliance directly into the inverter and the appliance struggled to start, ran slowly stumbled when it finally started. The appliance works perfectly when plugged into a household outlet and it worked perfectly on the two or three occasions before this last time when I plugged it into the inverter. I measured the draw of the appliance at 4 peak amps and 500 peak watts so a 3000w inverter should handle that without issue. My dealings so far with customer service aren't a good omen for how the company will handle my warranty claim. We'll see.

Wow, this unit is HEAVY and BEEFY. I wanted a powerful unit to install in my conversion camper van. It has 3 AC plug in ports and 1 USB port ( I wish it had more USB ports). It also has a corded remote switch to turn on/off the inverter. It comes with both black and red cable wth ring terminals on both sides. This unit got excellent reviews and was in the $300 range affordable. It has some sharp edges / corders on it's heat dissipating fins. It is meant to be mounted and screwed down using included screws and cushioned bumper mounts. So far I have no complaints. It has never overheated or had any issues but I have not put it through maximum operation levels yet. The system running through it consists of 1 power strip plugging into the AC port #1. A LED tv, PS3, Sound bar, Subwoofer all are on powerstrip #1. Powerstrip #2 plugging into AC port #2 consists of small microwave, computer printer, Apple iMac desktop computer. Extension cord (ending with a Powerstrip #3) plugging into AC port #3 for appliances NutriBullet, induction hotplate, Omega juice extractor. I have grouped these appliances and separated them to unique powerstrips to help isolate and control how much wattage I pull through the inverter. I have the inverter attached to 3 VMax deep cycle solar batteries running in parallel 155 amp hours each for total of 465 amps hours. The batteries are plugged into a Renogy MMTP 40 amp charge controller which is attached to 500 watts of Renogy solar panels.

Brought this to a boat yard for use on my boat refit. It is an upgrade for my 10 year old Xantrex 3,000 watt modified sine wave inverter. It has powered a 12 amp vacuum without any issues as well as several power tools and power tools battery chargers. Another reviewer commented that they had checked the waveform and it was indeed sinusoidal. I like the wired remote on/off switch which can be used as well as the on/off switch on the case. I eventually plan to wire this in to the boat and then there is a problem, it doesn't have any option for wiring in a junction box. It only has three standard ac plugs. I'll probably end up opening the case and see if I can hardwire in some wire to run an electrical box to. Yes I know it's not marine rated but I'm diesel powered with an old school kerosene stove. The dc power posts on the case are oversized with finger tightened nuts. The first issue is the battery cables already connected to the Xantrex inverter needed the holes on the connectors enlarged to fit the oversized studs so out with the drill. The second issue is why didn't they use standard nuts that you can tighten with a wrench? The round plastic caps are for finger tightening. You could use some channel locks and see how bad the caps get chewed up. Remember that 3,000 watts you're pulling over 250 amps not even factoring in any power conversion losses so I want a very snug connection. The other design option I didn't need and would prefer not having is a 5-volt usb plug for charging a cell phone or other device. Missed it in the specifications or I would have made an effort to see if there was a comparably priced inverter without one. It was at a good price point so unless it dies prematurely I'll be satisfied with the purchase.

This is how it looks inside. I don't know how long these are suppose to last as for, its 7 years. This inverter is used in my semi truck to power a ninja air fryer, microwave, laser printer, charge my laptop and whatever else i need to run. Now obviously you can run all of that stuff at once, but individually WAS np... Unfortunately my inverter appears to be officially broken. About 1 year ago, one outlet stopped working, and now all three. The whole thing just red lines after it is in use for a few minutes, and it trips. I am going to buy another one, just not sure if I'm gob with this brand or another...

I purchased this four years ago for two rooms in my house that I run off-grid during the day. I only use one outlet because the other two outlets are used for an oversized 5 Amp A/C adapter that automatically engages a transfer switch when the inverter is turned on. So I'm limiting to 2000 Watts because anything more than that will trip the breakers in the power strips. But I often pull over 1800 Watts for more than two hours and the inverter works perfectly. The fans come on infrequently and aren't too noisy. I've recently purchased a 1000 Watt tie inverter and have a relay to switch the output of my 12 100W panels between the tie inverter and the solar charger with about 1000 AH of LifePo4 batteries. I intended to go on-grid full time with the tie inverter but I've found that the GOWISE inverter is less noisy and much more efficient so I usually still use that unless it will be unattended for more than one day.