Baomain Single Phase DIN Rail 220V kWh Meter, AC Electricity Monitor | DDS238-4 Submeter Features 20A(100A) & Clear LCD Display. Reliable Energy Tracker For Home AC Electrical Systems

I was hesitant to buy this at first because the picture showed a 50 Hz model and I wasn't sure from the markings whether it would handle 20 amps or 100 amps - I wanted something for 50 amps of 240 volts for charging my Tesla. After a few questions and getting prompt answers from the vendor, I felt assured and purchased it. Connections are pretty straight forward, but you are dealing with very high power and voltage so it is better left to an electrician if you are unsure. This needs to be mounted inside a box so that connections are all protected. I fit it in a standard Jbox, just barely, with a customized cover plate, but I saw some ready made boxes are available and those seem like a good choice. This has been working well for me for several months. A little red dot flashes to indicate energy being delivered. This cross checks well to the Tesla's built-in measurement of kWh and provides a nice running total to help you make decisions such as what electrical rate plan to choose. It also can help you see the "phantom power" used by leaving the car plugged in after a full charge.

I installed 1 on my Dryer and 1 on my Central AC , i am righting down the usage numbers each month so i know what these appliances are using just by themselves , do not cut your wires to install this, be sure all covers are on before turning power back on, I have duel single phase electric, I installed mine beside my main electric panel, do not try this on your own if you do not know how electric works and you if you have not worked with electric before, you can NOT reset the numbers after reading ,same as your main electric meter,

I bought this Kilowatt hour meter and installed it in a clear-cover junction box next to my 240 volt hot water heater to monitor power used. My apartment has a separate feed to the water heater, bypassing the indoor fuse-box where I have a whole-house energy monitor. So to get total energy consumed, I add this reading to the other monitor and both combined usually match the KwH meter on side of building. But it's much easier to just check my indoor meters rather than trek outside.

The only meter I can find to measure 220v. I need it for a minisplit with two 110v legs and no neutral. All the other ones are for native 220v like China. I hope this is measuring both legs. This works like the analog house electric meter. No control, no reset. No fancy app. U need to record it manually.

Ok so very little info But I have the answers, First 220v in Europe they produce real 220v of AC at 50HZ. In the U.S. we use two separate lines of 120vac together to make 240vac at 60hz. So on this meter you can use L1 or load 1 say is your black wire or load wire of one side at 120vac and the L2 wire is marked L2/N meaning load 2 which might be say your white or red wire out , the other 120vac side, of a 220vac breaker. The N means neutral so it can also be used as your neutral or white wire on 120vac kinda like your ground wire. Look in your circuit breaker box to see which wires come out of your breaker for color of wire code. Some people use white as hot and black as ground but many use black as hot or L1 and white as neutral or ground for 120vac. 220vac is usually black for one side and red for the other 120vac side, ground/neutral can be white wire which you bypass around this meter and copper wire with no shielding is earth ground but check yours first. Now the two little wire inputs marked as l2 and l3 are marked SO meaning switch over this is for something like a generator trigger input which is a square wave power.

I disassembled mine because I was only going to use 12 gauge wire. I took out the screws which would normally pierce the conductor insulation and filed them flat, as I didn't want the screws to damage the conductor and create resistance which creates heat, which could melt the plastic. The meter uses both conductors to power itself. There is a single C.T. donut on the first leg/phase. So FYI to prospective buyers, this will work for a single circuit 120 or 240, but it will not say a split phase panel with neutral loads where you want to measure both Line 1 & Line 2. Because you either measure both hot conductors L1 & L2 or L1 & neutral or L2 & neutral. I use it for my evse (car charger)

Easy to install with a din rail. Flexible in that it does 110 or 220. No way to test the accuracy, but I am sure it is close. Great price.

I believe this meter will perform well over time based on reviews. I have given it one star because of non-existent documentation. About wire size: In reviews it states that it will not accommodate the larger wire sizes. Not true. It will accommodate wire sizes that well exceed the rated amperage capabilities of the meter. Another nice feature is there are two spacers that fit into the unit for the smaller wire sizes such as 14 AWG. I believe it would be quite difficult to properly connect the unit with the smaller wire sizes such as 14 AWG because of the two wire piercing screws. The smaller wire sizes can escape the center of the piercing screw (If you were a wire and you had an approaching piercing crew coming at you, you too would side step the screw and let it pass you by.) Leave the spacers out and you can use wire sizes in the 4 to 6 AWG range. Maybe even larger. Using the spacers with AWG 8 wire, the connection was perfect. The spacers come with the unit. There is no documentation as to what the spacers are even for, let alone how to use them. Accuracy: Reviewers who have compared the actual KW usage against known standards state the unit is accurate. That is great to know and I am going with their results. Accuracy: This unit is designed for 60 Hertz. But of course it will work with 50 Hertz as well. However, since Hertz cycles is a measure of time, most likely using the meter on 50 Hertz will result in a KW Hour measurement that is off by 16 percent. The meter does not have any adjustment for this. And of course the non-existent documentation does not address this. Accuracy: If you connect both hot legs to the unit (a 240 Volt measurement) and everything you are measuring is 240 Volts. The reading will be accurate. However, if you also have some 120 Volt circuits such as a 1,500 Watt. 120 Volt heater, the meter will not even see this usage, and the reading will be much less than reality. The reason is both wire legs must contain the current for the unit to work. The unit cannot see the current draw on just one leg. (The unit is only measuring two wires, there is no place for the neutral wire if you are measuring the typical house current set up on a 240-volt supply). If you need to measure current draw on both 240 and 120 circuits, you must buy additional meters. Since there is no documentation, there is no way for you to know this. It will appear the meter is working just fine, since it is reading the usage on the 240 circuits. In this case, the meter is totally inaccurate and very misleading. 120 Volt circuits: Some reviews have said you must buy a separate 120 volt meter to measure 120 Volt circuits. It works fine with 120 volts. It is stamped on the outside with a “N” on where to place the neutral wire and where to place the Hot wire “L1”. The bottom line is that you should only use this meter if you know what you are doing. Not because of safety but for the reading to be meaningful. There are just too many different scenarios in how you configure your wiring to make the reading meaningful. If you are just measuring one item, such as your electric car charger it will work well if you install it at the correct location—downstream from all other appliances.

Buen producto llegó antes de lo esperado,lo recomiendo

Works fine. No complaints.

Ce produit n'est pas approuvé par la CSA , il vaut mieux le monter dans un boitier en métal et installer des serres fils .

Adds a bunch a power usage right off start then double counts the usage amount affter?

Using it to track my EV usage on the 240V supply (2 phase + ground). Installation was easy and straight forward. The device doesn’t have CSA or UL mark, only CE.