Inland PLA Filament 1.75mm 1KG, 3D Printer Filament Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs) Fits Most FDM 3D Printers (Black, 1 Pack)

Being somewhat obsessed with glow-in-the-dark things, I've really limited myself to luminous filaments. I've struggled through rolls of Hatchbox for years assuming I was just not getting my print settings right (temperatures and flow too low or high, bed not leveled adequately, wrong speed, nozzle erosion, etc.). I had success with non-GITD filaments, but what's the fun in that? I found the Inland Luminous for a good deal and decided to try it on a whim. I half-heartedly removed my mostly full roll of Hatchbox - which had only given me a few good, small prints, and otherwise just clogged my Ender 3 Pro - and loaded the Inland. I heated and leveled the bed and then started to print some drawers for the E3P I had previously sliced. The first thing I noticed was, even without perfect leveling, adhesion on the magnetic printing mat was great. I had some low spots that I tweaked as the print was running, and the first layer was able to gloss over any missed paths in the brim and complete a nice first layer. Around this time the Hatchbox would typically clog (or a few layers in, after the print looked like it was going to work), so I didn't have much hope, but I stepped away and let the print continue on. A few layers later, the print was looking fantastic, no stringing, no clogging, the infill looked flawless (Hatchbox would frequently leave non-continuous lines in the thin infill sections), the vertical walls had no obvious issues. I left the print go and it turned out perfect. I've seen this before, however, and know that just when I think I have everything tuned in, the printer will remind me who's really in charge. Nope, not this time. Second drawer - perfect. Drawer frame - perfect. Tiny battery holder I had designed - perfect. I downloaded a bunch of things I had been putting off printing because I knew they'd be a pain - all perfect. 2 minute prints, 20 hour prints, everything I've tried has just worked. Not only that, but the glow! The glow is much, much brighter than Hatchbox. The ghostly, milky, off-white color when in light subtly hints that if you're lucky, the object might glow (in the dark). When taken out of the light, even with minimal light exposure and 20% infill, the glow is deep and bright. I've read reviews about other filaments that are brighter but at the time the Inland was what I could find and it does not disappoint. If there truly are brighter GITD filaments, they would have to print as well as this roll has. I haven't had this roll long enough to know how abrasive it is to a brass nozzle. While not completely smooth, the Inland is significantly smoother than Hatchbox which feels like it could double as sandpaper thread. Only time will tell, but after around 30 hours of prints, any nozzle erosion has not been noticeable. My initial impression of the Inland Luminous PLA is that its the unicorn GITD filament I've been looking for. The only downside is that I'm going to be going through a lot of it since I am spending much less time on printer maintenance and much more time actually printing things.

Have used Inland in the past, have no complaints

It prints great. I got some VERY high quality test prints out of it. I wish I had thought to save some pictures, I had some but I deleted them to free space up on my phone. I also threw the test prints away. It has been months since I have messed with my printer. I had to fix a problem that caused it to keep getting clogged, I am also not finished upgrading it. I will post some pictures when I get enough free time to get back to working with my printer. Just so everyone knows, my review can only be of the quality of the plastic itself for any roll that I use. I have a filtration system that I built for my filaments to be stored in. They pass through some stuff that removes any debris that may have gotten into the filament roll before getting to the stepper motor. The storage unit also has a lot of silica cat litter that helps to absorb any moisture from anything in the unit. I am saying this because I have no idea how clean the stuff is once it starts being used, it's always going to be clean for me unless debris got inside the filament itself while it was being formed into a long wire, which I have yet to encounter. Any way, I can say that the diameter is VERY consistent. It is also very accurate. It has always been 1.75, or VERY VERY close to that throughout all of my prints that I did while learning to use the printer I built (building one is a lot easier than learning to use one). The lines were barely visible too. The temperature that got the best results seems like was about 190c The bed temp seems like it may have had to have been about 60c, or else it would curl up. But there is slight warping at the bottom with heating the bed. I got some BuildTak sheets, and a piece of PEI sheet. I'm going to test how well they do so that I can leave the bed heater off.

This filament is a bright white color that prints fairly smooth in my Rostock Max v2. It's a little brittle compared to some other PLAs, but not much more so. It's not a problem. I've had no jams - unlike some other brands. I am repeat printing a medium sized item - a utility item that uses about 100 grams (1/10th a roll) for each print. After I dialed it in I am just hitting the print again button over and over with no issues. I have good layer adhesion, good bridging and a nice smooth finish when done. Again, this is largely a matter of your model and your settings. I tend to use enough layers to create perimeters, tops and bottoms of 1-2 mm thickness (6 layers at .2mm X resolution) to get things nice and smooth. Strength is also good. Everything is nice and stiff, and I have had no delamination. It is a full white color. A lot of "white" filaments are actually closer to the natural plastic with a little pigment mixed in; the Inland White is really white. I think the white pigments cause the brittleness, so the more white the less flexibility you will get. I have had success printing anywhere from 190 to 200. Right now I am at the 200 mark because the item I am printing responds better to the higher temp/more fluid flow. I see no reason to lower it unless some other model requires it.

This PLA is a very decent price. It works well in my Ender3 and in the Creality Hi with attached cms unit. I have had zero issues with this brand of PLA so far. The Creality Hi is a very fast high speed printer and this PLA holds up to the requirements for that speed very well!

I love the color of this, a dark ruby (not really purplish enough to be "berry"), but I've been having a bad time getting a decent build. Lots of warping at the build plate, even with parameter tweaking. My setup is pretty dialed in, so it's unusual for me to have serious problems with even cheaper filament. However, the most recent problem was a crossover in the filament. Ugh. There's no excuse for tangled spools. Looking at the negative reviews I see others have had this problem. I'm still trying, because I need some large pieces and at this point I don't care if I waste a bunch of the filament since the alternative is throwing it away, but Inland filaments are off my Christmas card list. ETA: Multiple crossovers in this spool, not just one. Not worth the aggravation.

Awesome pla

Prints great. Creality CR-10S Pro