Atmor 13kw/240v, 2.25 GPM Tankless Water Heater Electric, Multiple Point-Of-Use Water Heater with Pressure Relief Device, AT-900-13

DIY installation is possible, but it's not for the inexperienced. It requires knowledge of both plumbing and electrical. You WILL have to run new wiring and the plumbing hookup may require some creativity with fittings and sealants. Nonetheless, as an adept do it yourselfer, I'm satisfied with the product.

The appliance worked fine for 7 to 8 months. Now is not working anymore and Atmor customer support is not answering my emails. The phone numbers on their website are disconnected.

Bought it in December and since I’ve owned it I’ve used it maybe 30 times. It’s sole job is to heat up water to my work sink!!! It no longer gets hot!!! Lasted 4 months.. sorry, about 30 uses!

6 years and still working fine, doesn't get a lot of use but works always. water has to be flowing enough to turn on and sometimes a little tricky to get the right temp.

See updates below: New update as of March 2018 I just finished installing the AT-900-13 last night and had a chance to test it. First thing I'd like to point out is that mine came with two brass fittings which appear to take the inlet and outlet from standard pipe thread to some other thread (might be European but not sure). So, if you're using standard pipe thread in the U.S.A. then you probably don't need the brass fittings. But just make sure you check because I read a comment from ATMOR on another review that said the brass fittings were to allow U.S.A. standard pipe thread on the European threaded plastic fittings. Maybe some heaters come opposite of what mine did. I was skeptical at first, along with every person I've talked to at the home improvement stores, about the ability of this unit to heat water adequately for a shower. I have a well that runs pretty cold but I haven't had a chance to check the actual temperature. I live in the Northwest so I'm pretty sure the temp is around 45 degrees or lower. I first tested the water heater on LOW and ran water in the sink. The heater turned on and the water got mildly warmer (read, still cold), which I was expecting. Next, I tested the heater on MEDIUM. This time the water got hot. I can't tell you how excited I was to find that I could get hot water from the heater on Medium. Finally, I turned the heater on HIGH and the water from the faucet was too hot to keep my hands in it. After getting some things cleaned up I went to take a shower. Now, the water got nice and hot but that didn't last long. It went cold and hot throughout the shower. When I say it went cold, I mean completely cold, no heat at all. I've read lots of reviews where people complain about this kind of thing. So, I was prepared to get this as a result. Because I knew that not enough flow would cause the heater to turn off, because it requires 0.5GPM to activate, I had the shower turned all the way up with a 2.5GPM shower head. I thought that the problem could be not enough flow but not because it wasn't reaching the 0.5GPM but because it was not getting enough water through the heater to keep it from overheating and causing the heat protection system to shut off the heater. So, as a test this morning, I turned the sink on hot with a solid stream while I took my shower and that did it. The water stayed hot for my shower the entire time. Because of this, I'll be testing out running the heater on Medium to see if it gets the water hot enough for a shower. Of course, some will say that it could still be that there was not enough water flow but if that was the case then the heater should just turn off and not come back on. Besides the fact that I had the shower turned on all the way. I'll see if I can get some actual temperature readings and update my review. UPDATE 1: I grabbed a thermometer and found out what it is actually doing. All measurements were taken from the shower with it on all the way with a 2.5GPM shower head. OFF - 50°F LOW - 65°F MEDIUM - 96°F HIGH - 110°F UPDATE 2: After having the tankless water heater installed now for a few weeks, there are a few things that I'd like to comment on. 1. If you install this on a well system like I have, then you are probably going to experience very noticeable water temperature fluctuations. Why? Because most well systems that I know of have a pressure switch that controls the well pump. The pump kicks on when the pressure drops to a certain point and then turns off when it reaches a certain point. This means that the flow rate of your water system is going to change as the pressure changes and this translates to corresponding water temperature changes. Depending on the on/off pressure limits of your well pump switch, you can have very noticeable temperature changes. 2. I'm not sure if the severe temperature fluctuations I have experienced are solely the result of the water pressure of the well system but it is something that I am experiencing. 3. The water heater overheat protection will turn off the water heater when operating on the High setting if there is not enough flow. In other words, if you don't run somewhere close to 2GPM when the heater is on high, the overheat protection will turn it off for a few seconds. This can make for a startling surprise while taking a shower. Update 3 I finally decided to make a temperature controller for it. I didn't mind taking my shower with it set to Medium but my wife couldn't make it work. So, I used an Arduino with an LCD shield connected to a thermistor and Solid State Relay. Now when the water temperature gets to a set point the Arduino starts to pulse the heater off and on to prevent it from overheating. It probably cost me $50 to make. The point I'm trying to make is that unless you can make your own temperature controller, you might want to consider a different model, unless you don't mind cold water during your shower. Update 4 - March 2018 After three years of use, the water heater died this weekend. The water flow sensor stopped working. I will admit that I have not maintained it according to the manual so this is of no fault of the company. HOWEVER, try finding parts for this heater... I imagine that it is possible that if I cleaned the unit that the sensor might work again due to some scale build up or something inside the pipe. I'll have to take it out and see about cleaning it to see if it makes a difference. I did bypass the sensor BUT DO NOT DO THIS. I have the heater turned off at the breaker until I need hot water. I turn on my sink and then turn on the breaker. If there isn't any water flow, it can pressurize the water line very quickly and BLOW UP. This is also the reason that the newer models now come with a pressure relief valve. I should have installed one and if I can figure out how to get this thing to work again, I will install a pressure relief valve.

The products delivers heated water as described but subject to mechanical failure. I have had two of these and there is no satisfaction reaching out for warranty replacements, zero response....

Works alright but its too light. should have metal/copper inlet/outlet connections. Also cable entry for power is not proper to run 6 AWG wire in it.

HOT WATER MAKES ME A HAPPY CUSTOMER! Great buy! I was a bit skeptical at first about the technology and how it works. my contractor friend convinced me to buy one with all the benefits and after trying the unit, I am now a believer. The unit works GREAT in my new bathroom for my sink and shower. Installation was easy. No more waiting for hot water or better yet, hot water running out. I would absolutely recommend this unit to anyone looking to move away from storage tank units. Great value for the price.